Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Requesting E36 buying advice


Grover

Recommended Posts

I'm contemplating getting a second car that would be used for daily driving (I have a six year old son who rides with me sometimes, so would like something with airbags, ABS, etc...) as well as the ability to do a track day here and there. I've been honing in on either an E36 328 or M3, or perhaps even one of the first gen M Coupes. Any guidance as to years, operating costs, do-it-yourself maintenance ability, overall opinions, etc would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

E36 is a pretty cool car. Two friends had them - one a 97 M3 and the other a 90' something 328.

Here's what I learned from them:

Upper radiator neck is plastic. Cracks and breaks with time.

Water pump impeller is plastic, and with time sheds it's fins. Upgrade to the metal impeller pump.

Car throws codes when reactive charges in front seatbelts (yep - explosive charges to tension the belts) gets old. Easy to change, but a pain. BavAuto sells a code reader/reset tool, which is nice.

There's a fan relay that I remember pulling out of the E36 M3 that is prone to dying. Not a hard fix, but a pain.

All those are pretty minor. Only other words- the M cars need more maintenance (transmission fluid, diff fluid changed more regularly), and tend to be treated not so nice - so be very careful.

DIY isn't too bad. You will need the code reader/reset tool. But - I did some simple work on my buddy's M3 (exhaust, swaybars, o2 sensors), and it's not too bad.

Good Luck.

Ken

FAQ Member # 2616

"What do you mean NEXT project?"

-- My wife.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would say that you would be better off with an E30, a 90 or 91 will have a drivers side airbag. I have had both and I prefer the E30, Maintenance is a breeze and the chassis are super rigid. For very little money you can have a great daily driver that is very decent on a track. However if you are set on the E36, I would say go with a 325 or 328 manual with low miles. Get one that someone has taken care of and go to work. You will probably end up replacing the same things you would on an M3 so the starting platform is not that important. Also the M50 has a respectable 189HP that will go up to 200HP with a decent chip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Both 328is and M3 great cars for the money...there is a sort of buyers guide video on you tube that will tell you in detail what to look for...M3 e36

They are reliable, easy to work on and lots of mods available....

Good Luck...

1972 BMW 2002 -sold

1999 BMW 328is M Technik -sold

1972 BMW 2002tii

1998 BMW M3 SEDAN

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The E36 Soft top can be a pain... Im working on a friend right now.

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

great cars. easy to work on. they can take a beating also. i have two. 97 m3 i have had from new and 93 325is that has been a full tilt race car for last 6 years. search bimmerfourums in e36 section. lots of buying guide info.

2xM3

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...