M2 madness

[ray_]

Well, that looks like more fun than me letting the smoke out of fuse 12 reepeatedly while chasing the issue.

Fixed it. Not sure what it was. Which I think is more troubling than not knowing what it was!

Meanwhile the car is probably in as many pieces as yours ;-)

Cheers,

Ray

[M3M3]

A supply of parts arrived from Blunt, so back at it..

First up…replacing the timing chain tensioner. Old one on top, new style from an S50 engine on bottom. New one much easier to install and reportedly provides slightly more tension.

Then put new seals in the dizzy mount and cam gear covers and put them in. put the chain guide rail back on top.

Reinstalled the rear cover..with a gasket this time and sealant.

Borrowed borescope from Clay hoping for some vis into the cylinders, but alas…head of tool too big to get past the spark plug threads. Neat too though.

And need to replace the water pump pulley. Found crack starting…not sure how it got there but..

New one

Did first round of valve adjust after cams…no pics, process is same as I already documented further up in the thread. Still have a few more shims to get to make it right. Valve adjustments on M10’s are sooooo much simpler!!

[Swiftus]

Glad to see that progress is still being made at a quick clip!!!

On the valve adjustment topic... just be glad that you don't have to adjust the valves in an N20 or N13... The have both VANOS and Valvetronic systems that need to be tuned in parallel or else the whole thing goes kaput.

[ray_]

There's a clearance spec for that top chain guide on the M88. I'll bet there's one on the S14 also. Shall I look in my M88 FSM?

Cheers,

Ray

[M3M3]

sure! i could not find a spec in the pdf of an s14 manual i have and there was no mention of one in the koala manual.

[M3M3]

Lesson….when swapping cams…look for the manufacturer’s valve lash spec….not BMW’s. I had adjusted the valves per BMW spec. then found the Shrick spec. Shrick much looser. Had to remeasure and order some thinner shims. Argh. These things are $17 each. Accumulating an expensive stack of extra sizes.

Then changed the Fuel pressure regulator. I had started with an adjustable one. then realized I don’t want to change the FP when I can just change the map in the AN. Put a 3.0b stock FPR in to get the car running last fall. Wanted to bump up the pressure a bit, so today I put in a 3.5b FPR from a Porsche 944T.

Old out

Compare..identical size

New in

Deleted the vacuum line to the FPR as I do not want the FP changing, want the AN to control fuel exclusively.

[tinkwithanr]

Interesting idea about blocking the vacuum line to the FPR. I never thought about it that way but it makes a lot of sense to let AN handle it so it knows exactly what it's doing.

[M3M3]

the vacuum line bumps FP a few PSI under throttle.....slightly richens the mixture. this is fine with stock ecu as ecu has no idea where the throttle is unless full open or full closed and the FP bump keeps the mixture from going lean in that first second or two after the throttle opens. the AN fully maps the fuel grid based on throttle position and rpm, and has live WBO2 feedback loop. it already compensates for throttle transitions. same theory should apply to any aftermarket ECU.

[ClayW]

I was afraid that the head of that scope would be too big. Oh well; I bet you'll find uses for it anyway!

[tinkwithanr]

I'm not using AN on my build (I have MS3X) but I bet the same thing still applies. It would be interesting to see how the same theory would apply to a boosted car. Assuming the fuel injector is large enough to keep up with the volume of air without the bump in fuel pressure I would think it could be a more accurate way to meter the fuel.

[M3M3]

Chip change time…

Pull ECU, flip upside down and pry all the little lock tabs back on the case

Pull off case and pry up the two snap connectors on the side away from the big connector plug. Lift slightly and pull away from the black side.

Fold back the two halves

Carefully pry the stock chip out. A little at a time on both ends with small flat blade

New chip also has a daughter card, line up picture of a notch on card with notch on board socket. Carefully press in.

Now line up notch on chip with notch on socket. Press in .

Reassemble case.

The chip I have has two ignition maps on it. by grounding the ECU pin wire #28 I can switch between a 91oct and 93oct map.

[ray_]

Cool.

I have an iigo chip somewhere that uses the fqs to change timing only.

Cheers,

Ray

[M3M3]

The side cover shims arrived for the diff. remember that project? :-)

Ok here is the pile. Got more than needed in order to try various sizes to get right preload.

Putting them on. I must have done this about 50 times trying all the size combos…

Got right combo and buttoned it up.

Sigh, more expensive spare shims..

Back cover is back on. Waiting for gasket maker to set up before final torque, then fill it up with redline. Think I am going to use the lightweight shockproof oil this time. I used that in my e36 race car. takes loading better and has a tad less LSD additive for more lockup.

[M3M3]

Ok, I have had enough of the gas and gaz pedals coming off because of that dumb nub design from bmw. Time to do the conversion to a hinge.

Since this is a track and street car that has carpet, I could not just bolt it to the floor. Have to preserve the concept of two things sticking up from the floor through the existing holes in the carpet.

Short version of the process I am following is..

-cut off existing nubs and nub holder

-install two bolts through the floor and secure then top and bottom with alum bar and lock nut

-attach a hinge to the pedal

-install carpet

-screw nut onto bolts about half way down. This holds hinge above the carpet

-install hinge and pedal on bolts

-add another nut on top.

-drive……

The hinge

Various parts. Note the good set of nubs I cut out of Barney. Use those for reference and measurement

Pulled existing Gaz pedal off

The different pedals. Note for stock pedal use, must cut off the nub cups on bottom. (center pedal)

off with their heads!

gone

These things suck…

Here are the pieces of alum bar stock I am using to sandwich the floor pan. replacement for using washers.

All for now. Have to go buy some bolts (m6 x1.0x35mm) and let the “rust reformer” I put where the nubs used to be dry.

[M3M3]

Ok…continuing on..

Ran out and bought some parts. These are all the nuts and bolts needed.

Here is the roller bearing on the accel rod that rolls on back of aluminum pedal I made.

Drilled some holes in floor that lined up with hinge and aluminum bar holes

Attached hinge to gas pedal

Put bolts and plate on bottom. Goobed on some black RTV to seal it up under the plate

Plate and nuts on top.

Now the hinge support nuts go on. You can set these at the height you want the bottom of pedal to be. Put washer on top of nut, put hinge on, put another washer, then another nut.

With test fit done, remove pedal and put carpet back in

Reinstall pedal

Done

Rock solid. No way it is ever going to come off again while matching revs going into a turn on track. Whooo hoooo!

The mod is invisible unless you look behind the pedal. Same mod can be done to a stock pedal.