M2 madness

[potentialm20]

Can you provide details on the roller bearing you used?

[M3M3]

it came with the Massive Gaz pedal kit. fit is very snug...i had to heat it up and press it on. therefore i can't get it off to read the tiny size numbers. perhaps someone else with one of these products they haven't installed can share? if Lee does not plan on selling any more, perhaps he would divulge the part number.

[mike472]

Is that bearing captured by the u-shaped bracket the way the stock plastic nub is captured on the back of the stock pedal or is it riding alongside the bracket? I thought that the u bracket might now be there only to keep the pedal from flipping backward on you by keeping the end of the shaft inside the loop.

[M3M3]

You are correct....just there to capture the pedal, not the bearing.

[M3M3]

ok...here is the info on the bearing for the accel rod.

VBZ.com

#608Z

8mm id

22mm od

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/608ZZ10-1

[mike472]

Thanks Marshall!

[M3M3]

Got the new thin valve shims in from blunt yesterday, so finished up the valve adjust. Borrowed neat tool from a friend. I have a set of valve gap gauges, but couldn’t resist using the “official” bmw tool.

Its nice with individual gauges and a holder. Even comes in a case. Here is pic and part number. Only down side is that the are only every 5/100ths. My generic tool has finer increments.

With valve adjusted, I recoated the cams with assembly lube, then liberally dumped ZDDP break in oil additive all over everything.

Buttoned it up. Cover has not been on for months.

Double checked everything. Got in, and turned the key. With new cams, higher FP, new chip, etc….i was hoping I would not hear a bang. Instead, it started right up first try. Immediately settled to a perfect idle. I let it warm up and then ran it a 2k rpm for 10min or so. All good! What a difference in sound though with the valve lash set to the loose Schrick specs. I like quiet valves, these make noise now. Oh well, the price of power. Hope it works at 7400rpm too……

Next up…awaiting the arrival of a custom radiator from Silicon Garage. May require some rad support modification and at least more holes drilled for the bolts.

Also want to re-engineer the other end of the accel pedal…the end under the car. the s14 engine has lots of return springs in the throttle. The creates a need for a lot of force to push the gas pedal down. I intend to prototype a modified throttle lever that changes the effective lever ratio. Kinda like a “lower gear” for the linkage.

[ray_]

What power are you expecting now?

Driveable now isn't it? Awaiting your impressions!

Have u seen this site? I hadn't. http://m3guru.bmwe30m3.net/s14-rebuild-specs

Cheers,

Ray

[M3M3]

power? "more"....exact number is classified.:-) truthfully, nothing radical. the cams are the milder of the schrick line. i would drive it, but it is on jackstands and there is a bunch of stuff i would have to move to get it out. will hold off until radiator project done.

still worried about PV clearance at high rpm. that first run up will be nerveracking.

also need to get the exhaust system redone to replace the turbo system.

yes...pierre's is a great site...I had saved most of the pages on it for reference.

[M3M3]

Accel linkage mod….

Couple issues with the throttle tension.

a/ too much force needed to overcome the springs in the S14 tb’s. want to change the mechanical advantage.

b/ the original bracket which holds the lower part of the cable flexes a little decreasing throttle sensitivity.

First up, mod the throttle lever. Drilled hole a little closer to pivot to change the ratio, and rebent the lever to better align with the cable bracket.

Will try installing and adjusting soon…

Next, the bracket…this one.

A spare piece of metal, a couple welds and some paint later….this should be much less flexible.

More assembly when the paint dries…

[williamggruff]

Woah. Slow down. You're not actually gonna put that bracket back on without painting it purple, are you?

I had the same issue with my throttle cable support, and was planning to weld in a support in a similar fashion. Only mine will be red rather than purple. For speed, of course.

[M3M3]

LOL..i finally ran out of purple. next rattle can in the cabinet is "alumiblast" that Jim gave me. everything shall be silver until that runs out!

[mike472]

I drilled that hole exactly where you did but I didn't bend it flat in the area you did. I should have. One other thing I should have done is hammer that groove flat where the hole is drilled. The clevis pin setup on the Lokar cable end has to move freely and that groove make it a little fatter and it ends up binding the clevis pin movement. If you have a rod end with a stud sticking out it should be OK. That's how the cable connects at the other end on the throttle body. I remade the bracket in the picture and I used a pretty thick piece of stainless that was strong enough that no gusset was necessary. I also drilled a couple of holes in the bracket for adjustment purposes on both the pedal box side and the cable side so I could play around with different adjustments on the angle of the cable and how high up on the pedal box it was. I took a little messing around with to get full throttle and get it to come back to idle completely and smoothly. Keeping that arm level while the throttle pedal is all the way up inside the car is important. It actually dips below level when you push it all the way.

I going to hate taking that arm off again and wrestling with that f'n clock spring again. Drilling that hole definitely helped along with putting that bearing under the throttle pedal. I made a copy of your pedal and it worked great. The only thing I would think about improving is the hinge. The T-hinge is good but a little sloppy in the hinge pin. There must be a readily available hinge that will give you a little less slop from side to side. I am on the hunt! And by all means paint the bracket purple like Wiliamcgruff said.

[M3M3]

i did flatten the bump on the back of the lever. the cable bracket is made from stainless combo square ruler. pretty thick, but still flexed.

nice job on the pedal. yes, a touch of slop in the hinge, but it was the only one on the Lowes shelf that was approx the right size the day i decided it must be done. i am guessing slop will not be noticable on track. got a pic of how you did the back?

if you find a better one, please post it in the FAQ i started. good hunting! :-)

[M3M3]

assembled today.

throttle is now much smoother. not near as hard to push. there is more room on the back of the pedal if i wanted to move the attachment hole further in. may do that.