engine and drivetrain are any of the fuses supposed to show 12V, & other probl

[jerry]

folks, read through the following post from a forum search and the solution was not resolved/posted:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,344522/highlight,fuse+box/

2 weeks ago i was able to start my car after a 1 year slumber. 2 days later, nothing.. nada, except for a small peep when the ignition was turned all the way to start position.

now i don't even get that. nor do i get the 'fasten seat belt' buzzer.

i was getting 1.40V at the solenoid switch, but now that has fallen to around 0.4V.

no blinkers, no flashers, no turn signals, no lights. no guage lights, no alternator light.... dead.

i'm an electrical moron so bare with me and spell it out if possible.

i could have sworn i measured 12.4V across numbers 1 & 2 fuses, but that's dead now as well.

EDIT: the battery measures 12.3V across pos and neg.

i put a lead on the neg terminal and onto the aft side of nos. 1 & 2 fuse and measured 12.03V across each. any significance to the voltage difference?

alternator ground, check

engine to body ground, check

negative battery terminal to body, check

turn signal contacts cleaned, check

regulator contact cleaned, check

alternator terminal contact, check

flasher relay, swapped, cleaned, reswapped, check

fuse box contacts, cleaned, inspected, check

heaterbox ground to body, check

3 relays next to the regulator, cleaned, check

where do i start? i've run out of ideas?

where is the gate to current flow? does it run through the regulator? coil?

i do have a Crane Cam XR-700, btw. i've swapped it out once initially (red herring, or potential solution??)

thanks in advance

[rtheriaque]

What is the voltage reading across the battery terminals?

[jerry]

What is the voltage reading across the battery terminals?

12.23 V as of 2 seconds ago

down from 12.4 V when recharged a week ago and just sitting.

this is a sears diehard battery that's been sitting idle since purchase about 8 months ago..

EDIT: i just swapped the battery out for one with 12.59V

gauges lit up, buzzer worked and engine turned over briefly!!!

turned off key to open garage door (lest i die of CO poisoning)

next attempt at turning ignition was met with one click, then nothing....

FOLKS: just in. my problem appears to have been a voltage threshold below which NOTHING works.

swapped batteries and now the car is idling again.

yea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Question: i would have thought that at least the hazard flashers would function below 12V?

maybe i still have issues to deal with.

comments???

[Napes]

Lights, and most other low-draw elec. items should work down as low as 6-7 V. The starter motor will not turn over without 12V., but other items should function, although below optimum level. Not sure whats going on with your situation.

Bob Napier

[jimk]

Turn your key to run position. Turn headlights on. Are they bright or redeyes?

[pkbinplano]

Put your meter on the battery and observe the volt drop when you crank. Should not drop below 10 volts. If so bad battery. replace battery with know good or new, check alternator charging after.

[jerry]

Turn your key to run position. Turn headlights on. Are they bright or redeyes?

key in 'on' position

headlights are BRIGHT, running lights on.

turn signals not functioning. flasher relay goes click, click, click..... but no turn signals