Please, quick question.

[edhall]

I am literally in the middle of replacing my guibo (flex joint) in my 74 1602. lowered the muffler dropped the center carrier bearing and removed all 9 pieces of the old guibo. I came in to wash up and head to the hardware store for new bolts & nuts. My question is this; Is it OK to have all 8 of the guibo nuts face the same direction?, like towards the rear of the car. Unlike the alternating way they were originally installed? It would make reinstall much easier. Also can the universal joint just behind the center carrier bearing be replaced easily? Mine seems to be dry and has a little play in it.

[Mike Self]

1. Yep, the bolts need to go back the same way they came out--not all in the same direction. I know it's harder that way, but you're risking messing up your new guibo otherwise.

2. Make sure the replacement bolts you get (what's wrong with the old ones?) are the same grade as the originals--same shank etc. You really don't want to have inferior bolts let go while you're at speed; at the least it'll mess up your tranny and driveshaft; at worst it'll cause an accident when your driveshaft starts thrashing around under the car!

cheers

mike

[Guest Anonymous]

no the u-joint is not easy to replace. That's the quick answer. I'm sure you will get detailed instructions if you want to interrupt your project long enough to do a search or wait a bit for them.

[jerry]

it's not an issue to install the bolts in opposing direction if you merely preinstall the first 3 in the guibo before installing it onto the output flange of the tranny with the remaining 3 bolts (or 4 ea/ if using a 4-bolt flange of course). you want to tighten by holding the bolt head and turning the nut. the nut is intended to rest against the metal of the flange. you are proposing to have half the nuts secured and tightened against the semi-pliable guibo.

additionally, replacing the u-joint is not a DIY'er job. they are pressed in and need to be forced out and DS typically is rebalanced at that time, too. just had that work done on a couple DS's recently.

you might want to loosen your differential to aid in installing your DS. i little up front work can pay dividends in reassembly frustration.

[BigDog]

Use the right bolts, and more specifically the right NUTS. The guibo is held on with locknuts, the metal ovaluar kind (if that makes sense). You put regular nuts on there and you're gonna be sorry in a big big way.

Bolts/Nuts need to be in the factory directions.

Bolt the guibo to the driveline first, then to the tranny output shaft.

Nothin' to it, except reaching around the output flange with a 17mm wrench to grab those nuts, kind of a PITA, but not that bad.

I think perhaps an angled 17mm spanner may be a good tool to have.

BD

[edhall]

Thanks I suspected as much. I am reusing the old bolts but am replacing the old nylock nuts with new. I got new nylock nuts for the center carrier bearing and new muffler flange nuts & bolts.

[c.d.iesel]

..... YEA - what BigDog said plus - - - -

no ACME bolts/nutts there please!

and wipe out all the old nastyness out of the front

of the driveshaft, insert fresh hi-temp wheel bearing

grease, make sure your feeling a bushing and seal

inside there also so the shaft slides snugly over

the trans output shaft. If ther's nuthin in the end

of the d-shft - it will flop around and kill yer new quibo QUICKLY!

and, LEAVE THE METAL INSTALLATION BAND

ON the Guibo untill all yer nuts are tightened up.

how's dat for quick answers ?

[BigDog]

You may have trouble trying to fit nylocks up in there, they tend to be taller than the orginal ovaluar metal locking nuts They're not expensive, and not hard to find, might as well go with what hanz and franz put on there in the first place.

BD

[edhall]

Thanks for the detailed instructions with pics. Unfortunately i need the car in the morning to go to work and I was losing light so I had it all back together by the time i got your post. I did most things right except filling the cavity with grease or checking for the inner seal. I had marked the position of the center carrier to put it back in the same spot. It went in its old spot easily and didnt feel like any preload i loaded it a bit and tightened it down. I may have to take it all apart again this weekend because I noticed that the center nut on the yoke just behind the center carrier is missing. It must have vibrated off when the old guibo was failing. It had bad vibes all week. The center post from the tranny was nice and clean but also dry looking. I used nylocks on the guibo because that is what was on it previously, There is plenty of room for them, Your instructions mentions a heat shield, mine does not seem to have one.

[Mike Self]

Joint can replace it. I think they were the ones that did my '69's many years ago. If not, Dayton Driveline should be able to do the job. If possible, try to get a replacement that has a grease nipple so you can give it a shot of grease now and then. It'll last nearly forever if you can keep it greased.

cheers

Mike