Winter storage

[Guest Anonymous]

Yes, I've thoroughly studied the archives on this. But I'm still left with three (fairly minor) questions re: my '02's first winter:

1. Rear jack points. Placed somewhere under the control arms. Anyone have a photo or diagram?

2. De-icing cable under the car. The car is kept in an unheated garage in frigid Chicago, resting on a plastic sheet. Somewhere I read that it's good having a source of low heat under the car. Does this really make a difference or is it overkilll?

3. Injecting light oil into the cylinders; hand cranking the motor. Is this necessary only for really long-term storage? The car will sit for about 4 months.

Thanks in advance!

Hugh

[Guest Anonymous]

I wouldn't bother with any of that stuff for just 4 months, except for putting Stabil in the gas. If you are going to put it on jack stands, look under the car at the rear axle carrier - there is a stretch of 4" or so of flat metal where nothing is in the way, just in from the wheels. Put the stands there.

[c.d.iesel]

putting it on jack stands may save the tires(flat spots)

but put nasty stress on all the suspension bushings-

leave it on the floor with the tires 'fully' inflated

change the oil, flush the brake and clutch fluid,

fill the gas tank, and change the antifreeze if

it's 4-years or older

the plastic sheet vapor barrier is excellent,

but anthing with power for warming might be a FIRE! source?

wash, throughly dry outdoors, wax the paint, and leave the hood and trunk

lids open - which deters mice from setting up a vacation spot for friends and

relatives.

Remove the battery to an indoor bench for monthly voltage

measuring and charging

no need to start or crank monthly if you change the oil and filter

before storing - starting and idling for few minutes is more harmful

than letting it sleep for the four months

it best to not fully commit to 'storage' so on the rare clear, salt-free days

in winter to take it for a drive- fully heating up all the fluids - running it under load on the road for at least 1/2 hour / 15+ miles

[Mike Self]

Presuming you're not gonna start and drive the car periodically--that it will sit dead for the winter--when you pull it into position in the garage, with the engine still running and warmed up, disconnect the fuel line at the inlet side of the fuel pump. Have a rag handy to catch dribbles.

This will allow the pump to pump itself dry, and the carb to suck up all the gas in the float chamber. When it's out of gas, the engine will stop. Actually, when it starts to sputter, pump the gas to drain the accelerator pump diaphragm. Now you won't have to worry about the gas in the pump and carb evaporating and forming varnish inside the two instruments. And...the gas remaining in the feed line will run back into the gas tank. Don't forget to reconnect the fuel line, 'cause you'll forget next spring and won't be able to figure out why the car won't start!

Finally, stuff a wad of tinfoil up your tailpipe to keep mice from nesting in your muffler. I'd also block off the air intakes on the hood's trailing edge for the same reason. People have also stated that Irish Spring soap will keep rodents out of your interior; regardless, you want to keep 'em out. They can make an awful mess.

cheers and happy hibernating

mike

[beammmer]

when we in the south smile.

Don

[Guest Anonymous]

Thanks for the good tips, everyone! There's not much to it ...

Hugh

[Jim_75Sahara]

I wait for the rare salt-free-road days -- then I start it up and go for a 1/2 hr. drive. I want the engine to heat up to normal operating temp. and for the fluids to circulate thoroughly. The only thing on that list that I do each fall is to change the oil before the winter season. It works fine for me.