Kugelfischer Warm Up Regulator Rebuild 72tii

[19722002Tii]

All,

I have a vacuum leak coming from the top of my warm up regulator causing cold starts to be very difficult and rough. I confirmed by spraying carb cleaner on it and it stalled the motor. I ordered a new part through Maximilian but they just informed me it is NLA. The options are:

1) Have my regulator sent to a guy they (Maximilian) use in TX to rebuild for the same price as the advertised new part or

2) Find another place that will rebuild it.

Any suggestions on doing it yourself? Places to have it done? Any prior experiences??

Gregg

[c.d.iesel]

contact Gus Pfister - he may offer

an exchange - you send him yours,

he sends you a Re-Man regulator

http://www.bayarea02.com/features/pfister-interview/index.html

[williamdholmes]

good idea to use gus if you need to service warm up regulator. be sure it has warm coolant flowing through supply and return hoses or it will always think the engine is cold. you should see the piston rise about 10mm. it is designed to allow auxiliary air when cold so that should not impair cold starts, it allows aux air to support idle speed when engine is not fully warmed up. it always bleeds some, even when fully warmed up. poor cold starting often is failure of the starting injector.

[19722002Tii]

Thank you for the information. I will contact Pacific and see what can be done. In the mean time I started removing my old warm up regulator, what a mess!! I'm now fully into the belly of the beast.

[19722002Tii]

(nt)

[williamdholmes]

if you want to see if it is stuck, suspend it in 190 degree water and watch

[BillWilliams]

Hold on there batman. As Mr Holmes says, the warm regulator is suppose to let in air on warm up and it does it from the TOP of the regulator through a small hole I believe.

So if you are spraying carb cleaner or propane and hearing an increase in RPMs - that is normal as long as the car is still in warm up mode

If the high hat washer has moved up as far as it can go, and your test still shows an increase in rpms, then you may have a defective warm-up regulator,

[19722002Tii]

Latest update and a couple of questions.

I removed the warm up regulator and examined it. One of the coolant lines was completely clogged with sediment. I cleaned it up as best I could using warm water and dishwasher soap. For caked on crud on the exterior I used a wire brush and elbow grease. I manually blew in the vacuum line and air was rushing out the top of the air regulating cone.

Next I ran some really hot water and submersed the water coolant end in a small glass to check how far the regulating cone would rise. I didn't have a thermometer available but it was way hotter than I could stand. The regulating cone rose about 3mm. While at the 3mm mark I again tried blowing in the vacuum line and air was still rushing out the top of the air regulating cone.

1. I may have found the root cause of my problem with the clogged coolant line.

2. The manuals and tii fuel injection videos available on the internet state that the piston should rise 10mm. 7mm is a pretty large difference

Q1 - Is it possible that my warm up regulator is OK now and if I install it back on the car the air regulating cone will rise 10mm at temperature?

Q2 - Anyone know what temperature it should rise to 10mm? The Haynes manual says the 2002 has a 176 degree thermostat.

Q3 - When fully extended (10mm) will the regulating cone allow air past or will it be completely sealed off?

Q4 - Anyone else spent this much time farting around with this part?

Q4a - Any personal experiences would be great reference.

Gregg

Thank you to all who have responded.

[19722002Tii]

William,

I didn't see you post before I posted again. I will try cooking the part with a thermometer to ensure it's accuracy. Results to follow.

Thank you.

[jgerock]

The internal cone needs to rise higher than 4mm when fully warmed up. Most likely the inside is clogged with goop. I would either buy another rebuilt unit, a good used one or have your entire pump rebuilt. Having just the warm up regulator done is OK, but would perform much better if you had the pump/regulator and injectors tested at the same time.

Here is an exploded view I found on the web a couple years ago but don't have the index or part numbers to match.