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Kendall GT-1 20W-50: any good?


KFunk

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Old Kendall "green" is now Brad Penn 20w-50. Brad Penn bought the refinery but not the name.

Correct but a little backwards.... ConocoPhillips bought the Kendall name but didn't buy any of the recipes..... Brad Penn is the original refinery and the original Kendall formulation; the REAL green oil.

http://www.bradpennracing.com/History.aspx

http://www.conocophillipslubricants.com/brands-products/Results.aspx?brand=Kendall+Motor+Oil

The Brad Penn oil is highly recommended for those looking for the older SL higher ZDDP zinc formulation. I don't personally use it but know others who do.

The SL oil I recommend and use is SWEPCO.

Most of our M10 motors do not have the high lift cam and high valve spring rates of others like Porsche and high performance American engines. Thus have not seen the damage that the SM rated oils cause. But there are those here who do have expensive camshafts and thus higher valve spring rates who do need the benefits of the older SL rated oils with their higher ZDDP content. Nuff said?

Tom Jones

BMW wrench for 30 years, BMWCCA since 1984 at age 9
66 BMW16oo stored, 67 1600-2 lifelong project, 2 more 67-8 1600s, 86 528e 5sp 586k, 91 318i
Mom&Dad's, 65 1800TiSA, 70 2800, 72 2002Tii 2760007 orig owners, 15 Z4 N20

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I ignored most of 02for2's post, since its common knowledge combined with misinformation. Sorry man.

Yeah, I do horrible, unspeakable things to my engine. I've never paid attention to mileage, and just change it when its time to change it. I know when its ready for a lot of reasons. If I use Castrol20W-50 or other brands it goes to crap real quick. The VR1 holds on for a lot longer.

And yeah, I tried the competition yesterday and nobody had it. It's a fairly small town...

That's pretty hateful. I guess Oil threads bring out the worst.

And there's nothing common about common knowledge, as you seem to demonstrate.

Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, or ZDDP is really not necessary in an M10 motor. There is some benefit, but this is quickly negated by keeping contaminated oil in service too long.

I just wish I had your clairvoyance when it comes to knowing when your oil needs changing. Most of us have to rely on other methods.

Cheers!

1976 BMW 2002

1990 BMW 325is (newest addition)

1990 Porsche 964 C4 Cabriolet

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So....what of zinc in the oil for our older cars? Is that not a concern? Newer oils have little or no zince...and our valvetrain like the zinc. Newer cars dont like it because it clogs catalytic converters...so most oil companies dont put zinc in modern oils...thats why Valvoline VR1 race oil is liked, its racing oil so its got zinc in it...What of the engine failures that have been attributed to lack of zinc in freshly rebuilt motors?

Zinc is a good additive, but not totally necessary for the M10.

My point was that proper changes have a greater effect on the longevity of the motor than a particular brand of oil.

The best oil in the world becomes a detriment if it's not changed at the proper interval.

Cheers!

1976 BMW 2002

1990 BMW 325is (newest addition)

1990 Porsche 964 C4 Cabriolet

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Oils, oil and it is cheap.

These days I think it's all the same and not worth arguing about. Pick one and stick with it.

I have only used Kendall 20/50 in the Tii and the R 75/6 motorcycle.

Change it every 2,500 or 3,000 & yer good to go.

I did notice some burned/broke down quicker than others with my other cars.

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My gut feeling based on research and analysis, is that 20W-50 is wholly inappropriate in these cars. The lubrication and flow offered by a modern lighter weight oil is maintained in ways a 20W-50 circa 1970 couldn't dream of. We apply modern technology to these cars in a number of different ways (disk brake upgrades, electronic ignition, computerized fuel injection, etc), why does the community stick to 20W-50?

because the tolerances and metallurgy in the motor ARE still 40 years in the past.

A modern Honda runs .0005 bearing clearances where we see .002.

Ferrari does it best: 'You must run an oil that holds 70 psi at 5500 rpm hot'

0-20 won't do that.

Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, or ZDDP is really not necessary in an M10 motor.

unless you have a camshaft. Lordy.

Most of our M10 motors do not have the high lift cam and high valve spring rates of others like Porsche and high performance American engines. Thus have not seen the damage that the SM rated oils cause. But there are those here who do have expensive camshafts and thus higher valve spring rates who do need the benefits of the older SL rated oils with their higher ZDDP content. Nuff said?

Tom, you are my hero. ZDDP is a godsend wherever ther's sliding friction. Like older cam designs.

A motor that's been broken in can live with less. A new cam would really like it

and a new motor with high spring pressure, for whatever reason,

has to have it. It was DESIGNED to have it.

learned that one the hard way.

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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