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76 02 pricing help


tsmetana

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Hey guys,

I need some help pricing out my '76 02.

The engine runs strong, it was rebuilt around the 80k mark by a man in Gresham, Or (Bavarian Auto works). Needs a new speedo cable and tach repair, but I plan on fixing that before I sell it. The body is straight and it has a clean title. There are a few dents on the drivers side door (it used to live in Chicago, and the winds blew the door open too far) and there are a few scratches on the driver side door from my knife pocket clip when I gave it a bump start a while back :/. Very light rust on rear shock towers and floorpans, but its had it the 4 odd years I've had the car and hasn't gotten any worse. The seats are in rough shape; the vinyl was torn up pretty bad by the previous owner, and the cables have broken. You can still access the rear seat, but its kind of macgyvered. E-brake doesn't function. The dash vinyl is clean, all the switches are new, and the carpet is clean as well.

Modifications are as follows:

-Weber 38/38 carb (electric choke)

-e30 alternator mod

-stereo system

-bower defrost

-turn signal relay replaced with easily replaced 3 prong switch

-emissions system removed

The engine burns through coolant rather quickly, but head gasket and engine block appear to be intact. Burns almost no oil. Odometer quit at 98k, have put on very few miles since, i doubt its over 105k. Front brake rotors are new, as well as pads. Tire tread is just about new, and I also have 4 snow tires, as well as a box of hosed/misc car parts from previous owner, and the full engineering spec/build book. Car color is the rare brown color of which name escapes me at the moment.

Hoping to get around $3000 for it, but I'm not sure (hence the post). Any sort of input would be fantastic, I'm really in the dark on how much I should sell this for. I live in Vancouver, Wa, just outside of Portland, Or, and am looking to sell locally.

Thanks

Its supposed to catch fire, right?

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I've been living out here in Southern Washington for the last year or so, and the thing I've noticed from browsing the 02 ads is how low the prices are, espevially compared to the east coast. It seems that 02s are fairly common in the Northwest, probably because of the dry summers and lack of road salt.

$3000 seems like a high price for a 76 that might be using coolant with trashed seats and a little rust in the back. Keep in mind that they are pretty easy on the smog rules in Washington, but Oregon and California are two different matters. If the smog gear is all gone on your 76, that might limit your market quite a bit. If you can put it back on or provide it to the buyer, that might make it more saleable.

Also try to figure out the coolant issue. How often do you add it? Does your water pump leak from the weep hole? Do you have a pinhole in a hose? Solve that problem if you can, because if its burning coolant, you,ve got some sort of head problem.

Try to fix those items, be up front when you list it, list it here and everwhere you can (classic car trader, roadfly, craigslist, hemmings, etc.) with lots of photos. Then be patient and considerate with people who call our write (watch out for the scammers; cash in person only) and you might get $2500 in your pocket.

Good Luck

See the competition:

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/2337101920.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/ctd/2335345510.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/2333198640.html '72 for $2750

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/2337208121.html See the rust?

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2336674703.html 5-speed for $2500!

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/2327458921.html '76 comparable?

John in the Columbia River Gorge

1976 2002 Chamonix/Navy - SOLD

2001 330i

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from the above 'description' it's a $1000 car

needs a ton of work

ziennabrawn brown is nasty

"uses coolent" alone will cost the next owner BIG$

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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I have noticed a huge disparity between what people on this board quote for values and the real world market, as least where I live. A car is worth what someone will pay. Those on this board are highly knowledgeable about repairs and what a car needs to meet their level of acceptability. They also know that 2002s are not all that rare and there will be another one along tomorrow. The general population does not.

There is also a collector bias against the big bumper cars. Some people would not even consider them, especially the west coasters. Yes they are less attractive when compared to a roundie but the average person does not know the difference if the two are not side by side.

In this case, I would not pay more than $1k for the car because I can add up the $10k worth of work it needs before I would drive it. I am seeing the negative. If you find someone less informed that sees a chance to get a cool old car that just needs some seat covers, you might get $3k. We get them here all the time. Hell, at one time, we were them.

While a good salesman could sell that car for close to $3k, it would not be ethical to do so. The water loss is a huge deal and IMO you are morally obligated to disclose it and explain the consequences to any buyer. That is why you should get to the bottom of it. A new head gasket or block sounds expensive, even to a newb.

s.jpgp.jpgx.jpgh.jpgm.jpg

BMW Lotus Healey Miata x 2

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Hope springs eternal.

For most people it will look like too much expense for minimum safety. Specifically emergency brake. A brake job even if you do it yourself will be $500-$1000 *IF* you have to replace anything other then pads.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LOW-RESERVE-1976-BMW-2002-LOW-RESERVE-/250807481946?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a654a765a

Just a bit south of you but this one was just relisted. First go round minimum bid was $1500 and no one bit.

Yes, a lot of '02s sell for $3000-$10000 but that is because they just had $6000-$20000 put into them. :)

Rick

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FYI: Siennabraun is one of the 'unloved' colors used on squaretail '02's. You could get a premium for Inka, Colorado, or Taiga perhaps.

Any shock tower rust is a huge negative. ($$ repairs)

Burning through coolant -- this sounds very bad to me. ($$$) You must disclose this defect.

The e-brake needs to be fixed, in fact, the brakes, shocks, bushings, tie rod ends, etc. all need to be in very good condition to keep this from being a death-ride.

Trashed out seats are a major turn-off. Buy some decent used ones, install them and improve your odds of selling this '02. Better yet, fix the coolant problem NOW.

Cheap '02's are cheap for a reason: they need loads of $ put into them. Mine was semi-cheap back in 2003, but I have spent a lot since that time to get it nearly the way that I want it. I wouldn't profit any by selling it now, but it is a much better car than it was back then, that's for certain.

'75 Sahara 2002 Dieter (sold)

'14 Blazing Red Metallic Mini Cooper

'73 Sahara 2002 Franz

 

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Alright, guys

A lot of fair points were made, I found out a little more about the problems I got going on; specifically the coolant.

The head gasket and block are sound, and the oil isn't contaminated whatsoever. I did, however, find that it is the heater core that's been burning or leaking the coolant.

I fixed the tach.

The next question is

-is it worth it to replace the heater core

-is it worth it to replace the speedo cable

I really don't want to hold on to this car for another few months while I make repairs, nore spend a ton fixing it to sell.

The seats I will keep an eye out for, but they're gonna have to be pretty cheap to hit my budget.

In light of this, and say with the heater core replaced, is 2000 an acceptable number?

Oh, and thanks again for all the advice.

-Tanner

Its supposed to catch fire, right?

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Yes and yes. Look at it from a buyers's point of view. Would you buy a car that doesn't have a working speedometer? It makes the buyer suspicious of the whole situation, especially one who isn't mechanically inclined. The 02ers know its not hard to do, but many people have no idea.

Buy the speedo cable and spend the time to put it in. Try to find a used heater core and spend the 8 hours plus to do it right. Fix the other stuff as best you can, be honest, and be patient. Try junkyards if you have to. Look on www.car-part.com for a 320i and get some new to you seats.

When you sell, you'll have a clean conscience, and you may get a higher price if you explain all of what you've done and why. The buyer may have more confidence in the car and know its in better shape.

John in the Columbia River Gorge

1976 2002 Chamonix/Navy - SOLD

2001 330i

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Alright, guys

I really don't want to hold on to this car for another few months while I make repairs, nore spend a ton fixing it to sell.

The seats I will keep an eye out for, but they're gonna have to be pretty cheap to hit my budget.

In light of this, and say with the heater core replaced, is 2000 an acceptable number?

Oh, and thanks again for all the advice.

-Tanner

Reason people are saying to go for seats is they are one of the few things you can potentially break even on. For $30-$40 each you can pick up some used seats at Pick-n-Pull.

The materials used in the heater housing and ducting are really bad. I'm guessing a working heater in the Pacific Northwest rates right up there with brakes and headlights. Just warning you that the parts may disintegrate as you try to take take them out. It may be better to leave it for the next owner.

You may be able to get $2000 for it. Just about any driver is good for $500 to a grand, but this *is* a classic BMW. If I had a choice between something like a sh0tb1x 85 Toyota Tercel or a 2002 for that money the BMW would get it. That is a very personal opinion since I have driven an 85 Tercel.

Rick

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No one likes big bumpers (except me :P) I see nothing wrong with them, they look OK and make a darn nice spot to sit down. But thats just me, I grew up around pickups with HUGE bumpers so these are nothing new to me. Brown is also not a popular color at all. So now for most buyers you got 2 things working against ya.

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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I say now that you know where the water is going, buy some cheap seat covers and throw it on Craig's List for $2300. Take the first decent offer and move on.

You should tell the potential buyers there is a water leak in the heater core. You don't have to tell them it is a nightmare to replace.

s.jpgp.jpgx.jpgh.jpgm.jpg

BMW Lotus Healey Miata x 2

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Thanks, man

I know the things in fairly rough shape, but frankly from the input you guys gave, I've gone through the car more than I have in the last few years and I got it in better shape than it's ever been. Ive gone through all the suspension and looked for any faults, it's all sound. I've also took light sandpaper to all the rusted areas, and it's all surface rust in the trouble spots, then I've shot it rust inhibiter, so that's all solid. I tuned the engine up right, it's purring perfectly now. I just have to figure out a fix for the heater core. I'm hesitant because it is a nightmare to replace it, and new the core is over 300 off bav auto, so I just don't know if the return will be worth it. Lastly the seats I'm searching for, but again, if I can't get my money back on that, I might just have to go with nice seat covers.

Anyways, thanks a lot guys, I appreciate the help.

-Tanner

Its supposed to catch fire, right?

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