Newbie rear brake work stumper

[jgerock]

New parts installed (thanks to BLUNT) and completed today on the rear end. Made sure the adjusters were all "in" and the upper shoe tabs were in the wheel cylinder correctly. The weird lower spring clip was a total pain to install. By the time I got both ends in the shoes, then hit the middle with a large screwdriver and hammer, it would pop out of one end. I messed with both sides for about 1 hour until they finally seated.

I tried slipping the drums back on - no go. I double-checked the shoes on the backing plates. Tried forcing the drums on - no go. I tried to recall all the steps I'd read about in Blue book, Haynes, FAQ, etc. I even opened the bleeder valve on the new cylinders hoping the pistons would retract by pushing some air out. That didn't help.

After I took a quick break to wash up, I thought about the hand brake. The original adjustment to the cables was based on the old shoe linings. I backed both 10mm wrench nuts off (WAY OFF) and that moved the shoes inward enough to put the drums back on.

By the way - the rusty-colored stuff on the hub is anti-seize paste I put on a while back to keep the drum from sticking.

By the way - the standard $ 8 auto parts store brake spring tool does not work as well as I thought it would on the 2002. The hook end is bent just enough to interfere with the shoe when pulling the spring toward the hole.

My tip: An old pilot bearing (I think it is!) works good as a spacer on the drum when adjusting the shoes. I ran out of large washers and found an old bearing.

Here is the left front caliper installed. Tomorrow I'll do the right side then bleed everything.

[wegweiser]

Tip for next time, Jim:

assemble both shoes together with spreader bar and upper spring hooked to them BOTH.

Hold "behind" - ie: rearward) of hub and hook the handbrake lever arm of the rear pad, into the cable end. Then fish spreader bar (still attached to both shoes) behind top of hub. Spread pads (stretching spring) with hands, over onto either ends of wheel cylinder, making sure that a) the piston "slots" are vertical inside the rubber boots, and NOT to tear the rubber boots.

the lower "W" spring is always a bit finicky....especially when they're new, but it's a WHOLE lot less pesky than trying to stretch thet upper spring. I have a permanent 3/4" scar just above my eye from doing it the "hard" way.

Hope this helps the next person, or you, next time!

Paul

[M3M3]

every project is an adventure, eh Jim? :-)

red car gang coming over tomorrow afternoon. Dudley and Clay doing the exact same brake job on dudleys car tomorrow morning with all the parts off Barney.

[jgerock]

I thought about trying that method on the 2nd wheel, but decided it was easier to get the top done first, then the bottom second.

I did remove one side of the top spring while I tried getting the bottom 'M' spring into place, but no matter what I did, one end of the bottom spring popped out. Both shoes wanted to move away from the backing plate which made it frustrating. VW Beetle drum brakes are easier to deal with.

ps: I described my drum brakes to a co-worker who is a die-hard Ford fan. He said the design was Bendix-based that goes back to (at least) the Model A. K.I.S.S.

[MrSharky]

Looking good, Jim!!

Got a parts list handy for the rears? Looks like new pistons and shoes, at least - what else did you end up getting?

Just finished my fronts, after I've recovered from that (and drive her!!) I'm thinking of tackling the rears.

thanks!

Matt

[jgerock]

Looking good, Jim!!

Got a parts list handy for the rears? Looks like new pistons and shoes, at least - what else did you end up getting?

Just finished my fronts, after I've recovered from that (and drive her!!) I'm thinking of tackling the rears.

thanks!

Matt

Both top and bottom springs were purchased from BLUNT. No list yet - I'm sure Steve P. can set you up with what you need.

Here is one of the (2) handbrake lever shoes. They are different L&R side.

[HarryPR]

Finicky is too kind a word for that lower spring. It is the work of the Devil.

[wegweiser]

Oh no, Harry. E30 STARTERS are the work of the Devil. Next time I install one, I'm writing on it (they way folks write on bombs, before they get loaded into a plane): "I hate you, Love Satan" for the next poor guy!

Paul

[Napes]

Not sure what brand of brake drums you're installing, but the new Brembos I just installed said DO NOT use anti-sieze paste on the hub - use only light penetrating oil. I had always used anti-sieze paste before, but I cleaned it off with lacquer thinner and followed the instructions by applying a light coating of 3-in-1 oil.

Also, some 5/8" nuts (from Home Depot) work great to snug-up the drum for adjusting the shoes. They slip right over the studs and the chamfer on the nuts is perfect for receiving the 60º lug nuts and makes the drum nice and tight. I always snug up all four studs - but then I'm somewhat anal when it comes to working on my cars.

Bob Napier

[wegweiser]

Jim, you may have misread my post (not sure) - I *do* start with the top first - fully assembled, then hook the cable as you offer them up to the car - then expand the shoes by hand (one at a time is easiest) on to the wheel cylinder.

Hrmmm?

Paul

[jgerock]

Jim, you may have misread my post (not sure) - I *do* start with the top first - fully assembled, then hook the cable as you offer them up to the car - then expand the shoes by hand (one at a time is easiest) on to the wheel cylinder.

Hrmmm?

Paul

A little experimentation is good for newbies like me. I thought I had the upper spreader bar installed wrong, but it fits one way to make the parking brake lever fit in the notch.

Next time, I am going to use some clamps to hold the shoes against the backing plate when pushing that bottom clip over the lip. Right now, this car is the only one I have that has rear drums.

The VW has Porsche 914 rotors and Golf calipers (e-brake cable not connected yet).

[stone02]

to hold the shoes in place

i keep the adjusters out toward the

shoes so that the shoes can pull past

the pin. this has always worked.

the bottom spring is tough to install

but i use a very wide blade pry bar

and just push up and in usually three

tries does it.

good luck

stone

[jgerock]

Thanks Chris. I rotated the adjusters all the way out but the shoes just canted inward when trying to fit that dadgum bottom spring. Will hopefully have more luck the next time.

Installed the right caliper and then commenced bleeding with my pressure bleeder. Rears went fine along with the left front. The upper bleeder screw on the right rebuilt caliper was stripped (ARGGGH). Pulled the bleeder screw out (threads were junk - caliper OK) and replaced it with one from my old caliper. Car back down and works fine now. E-brake adjusted and it finally holds the car still. I was so happy to drive the car in the sunny weather this afternoon.

Thanks to Marshall for the advice on the bleeder screw (and to Janice for the yummy cookies!).

[Kidasters]

I actually think drums are tougher than disc brakes.

Here are the superfins I installed on the mini....

[jgerock]

I actually think drums are tougher than disc brakes.

Here are the superfins I installed on the mini....

Ken - just try to purchase a good set of finned aluminum drums from a 356. $$$$