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Newbie rear brake work stumper


jgerock

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Hah - it was hard enough to get these.

It was cheaper, even with the exchange rate and shipping, to buy these directly from the UK, vs buying them from anyone in the US.

The hard part was actually adjusting them.

FAQ Member # 2616

"What do you mean NEXT project?"

-- My wife.

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  • 2 years later...

Hah - it was hard enough to get these.

It was cheaper, even with the exchange rate and shipping, to buy these directly from the UK, vs buying them from anyone in the US.

The hard part was actually adjusting them.

Do you have any info on adjusting the drums? I saw one thread talking about a special tool from bmw. Just looking for a little more insight.

Both top and bottom springs were purchased from BLUNT. No list yet - I'm sure Steve P. can set you up with what you need. Here is one of the (2) handbrake lever shoes. They are different L&R side. IMG_5616.jpg

I couldn't find a passenger side shoe w the arm on it. Realoem shows it as ended and I couldn't find it through other sources I usually get parts from. Couldn't figure out why they continue to make drivers side and not pass side. I ended up buying another drivers side shoe. I'll either drill out the rivet and flip the shoe around and reinstall or just simply not hook up the arm to the ebrake cable.

1972 2002tii // 2008 M3

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The best tool for adjusting the rear shoes is a thin 17mm wrench (the one supplied in BMW tool kits seems to work the best). Before installing the shoes, make sure the two adjusting bolts can rotate. The front one is kind of hard to access due to the trailing arm. Watch the offset pin rotate while you turn the bolt so you can get an idea which way to turn both when the drums are installed. Loosen the handbrake before doing anything, then adjust the shoes so they just drag a little. Some experimentation will be required but it isn't very hard.

Not sure why the shoes have been hard to find- search the internet and you should be able to get them. Try Blunt or LaJolla Independent or Ireland.

Good luck.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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Using Jim's first pic, to get the top of the shoes to move closer toward the drum you turn the adjuster to get the pin to push the shoe away from the brake cylinder. When looking from the back:

On the driver's side, the rear adjuster is turned counterclockwise and the front adjuster clockwise.

On the passenger's side, the rear adjuster is turned clockwise and the front adjuster counterclockwise.

IMG_5619.jpg

John in VA

'74 tii "Juanita"  '85 535i "Goldie"  '86 535i "M-POSSTR"  

'03 530i "Titan"  '06 330ci "ZHPY"

bmw_spin.gif

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I couldn't find a passenger side shoe w the arm on it. Realoem shows it as ended and I couldn't find it through other sources I usually get parts from. Couldn't figure out why they continue to make drivers side and not pass side. I ended up buying another drivers side shoe. I'll either drill out the rivet and flip the shoe around and reinstall or just simply not hook up the arm to the ebrake cable.

rear shoes are readily available in the aftermarket. think BLUNT and IE have them.

2xM3

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Using Jim's first pic, to get the top of the shoes to move closer toward the drum you turn the adjuster to get the pin to push the shoe away from the brake cylinder. When looking from the back:

On the driver's side, the rear adjuster is turned counterclockwise and the front adjuster clockwise.

On the passenger's side, the rear adjuster is turned clockwise and the front adjuster counterclockwise.

IMG_5619.jpg

Easy to remember, just pull the wrench handle down (or up maybe) with the wheel on in all locations to tighten the adjuster.

Edited by jimk

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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When I did my upgrade to 320i brakes I could never get the drums on, so all I did was grind the outer shoe edges enough to allow the drums to just fit on, then wacked them with a hammer till they were fully seated.  After that they weren't even binding and were easy to adjust.

 

71 2002

06 330i

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  • 5 years later...

See this YouTube video.  It's golden:

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HY_I5oUoR7M

 

I followed this guys clamping procedure and all went well.  Needle nose vice grips are a key tool.

Squares need love, too....
'76 Polaris '02; '76 Granatrot '02 (20th US car built for '76); '76 Schwarz '02 (acquired 9/20/17)

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I totally agree with the advice given about the needle nose vice grips helping get the rear brakes re-assembled.  I'll take it one step further with a picture of a tool I posted a few years ago.   I found that an unusual vice-grip that I got from Harbor Freight made the lower spring much easier to get in place.  As you can see it is a very long extension needle nose vice grip.  What makes it so good for the brake spring is that you can grab the wrench with both hands making it relatively easy to manipulate the spring. 

IMG_1281.JPG

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Seems like two options 

1 Put the low side together first and spread the top side to assemble   

2  Assemble the top then put the W spring in one shoe, hook it behind the clip. then (If you have a helper this works better) hold the W spring down behind the clip and grab the spring with a set of pliers or vice grips and pull the W spring out until it rests on the other shoe.

Then use a screw driver to pry the spring into place where it drops -springs really- into the hole in the second shoe

Congratulate yourself.

 

The first inclination fort most people is to install the W spring last, so that's why this task is so notorious  Thank goodness it doesn't have to be done very often

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