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What should I do with the door panels off?


hnichols

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I'm going to be installing a new set of door brakes (courtesy of Harry on this site), requiring me to remove the door panels. Apart from cleaning and lubing the window and lock mechanisms, is there anything that it is recommended I replace when I'm at it? I'd like to have each panel back on soon after I pull them, so I'd like to order any parts (seals, gaskets, whatever) before I start.

Thanks in advance!

Hugh

hnichols

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-Get a set of the anti-rattle grommets for the lock rods.

-Remove the latch mechanism and soak in solvent and re-lube with Wurth HHS.

-Order the factory BMW vapor barrier.

-Also, if you want, clean the inner shell of the door and hang some sort of noise insulation.

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1. check the window lift mechanism to see if there's play in the crank handle. Lots of play = incipient failure. At minimum, lubricate the moving joints on the mechanism.

2. Check the seam at the bottom of the door where the outer skin meets the bottom panel. Look for rust forming along that seam--see if the factory seam sealer is loose; if so, there's bound to be rust underneath. Remove the seam sealer, clean throroughly and douse with the rust preventative of your choice. A lot easier than replacing the lower door skins.

cheers

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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How are your door brakes? When I took off my door panels the 1st time, the remnants of the broken door brakes were inside the lower part of the door. Make sure you clean out the lower inner door area so that the drain holes aren't clogged.

'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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Thanks all for the excellent advice!

Mike, what exactly would need to be replaced if the window lift mechanism is on the verge of failure? The crank handles are, in fact, extremely loose, although they work fine.

Hugh

hnichols

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I thought I read that the vapor barrier should be removed and not put back on? Not sure where I read that. In any case, if I were to buy new ones, do I just go to the dealer? What is the significance of the factory plastic? Thanks,

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Mirror bracket blind nuts tighten from the outside, not the inside, unless someone added a passenger side mirror and did not use blind nuts.

Bob Napier

that is assuming the blind nuts are still functional....mine were bent and the hole slightly enlarged. can try to tighten from outside until wrist gets sore but it would not do any good....;-)

2xM3

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Note: unless you want to take your door panels all the way off... you really don't need to take them off to do your door brakes. You can just open them up enough at the bottom front corners to gain access and then seal back up. Good luck.

-Marc

'73 2002 (Agave) - Horst

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I am going thru the same thing re door panel rebuild. What started off as a simple "I'm going to add a keyless remote" installation has turned into a full blown project!

What I've done and will do:

- replaced the door brakes. Buy from Harry, he's a great guy, had the pleasure of meeting him.

- cleaned inside of door with simple green and then layed a single layer of Peel n Seal. Got that at Lowes and is nearly identical to stuff like Rammat, B-Quiet, etc (I know since I've used both of those now)

- Consider adding keyless remote. I'm in the process and since you have everything opened, you might as well

- Consider building a new door panel. Per advice of another member, I am building mine out of plastic.

- Instead of the plastic barrier, I'm sealing my panel off with Peel n Seal. As a test, I nearly covered off all the large holes on the driver's side but left the passenger side as is. What a night and day difference.

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