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75 in the SF Bay Area


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Hey guys, "thinning the herd" and selling my 02. It used to be uptownroamers car from whom I bought it about 3 years ago. I've done a mechanical refresh as detailed in the CL listing. Special pricing available for FAQ members because of all the knowledge I've gained here over the past few years. I am completely negotiable on price, but it doesn't hurt to ask high. I've copied the listing for your convenience.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/2449655001.html

For sale is a 1975 BMW 2002 in Silver, 86000 original miles. This car was originally a California car and briefly spent a few years on the east coast with me. Now it's back to CA and I think it's time to thin the toy collection to make room for others. This car has been meticulously gone through over the past 3 years and has numerous performance and reliability driven upgrades. These include:

Suspension:

All rubber bushings replaced with Polyurethane from Ireland Engineering

All tie rod ends replaced with new OEM

Upgraded front and rear swaybars from Ireland Engineering

Upgraded springs from Ireland Engineering - 350lb race in rear, custom 300lb in front.

Bilstein sports front and rear

Front Strut bar from Ireland engineering

This car has no problem keeping up in the turns with any modern sports car, I can hug the rear bumper of an M3 and a Tesla Roadster on Skyline Blvd with ease, if you want to autocross this thing it's ready, or just cruise on skyline and get a lot of attention at Alice's, you can do that too.

Tires:

4 Falken Azenis with 2000 miles on them, riding on Diamond Racing 15in powder coated steel wheels

4 Spec Ford 12in wide racing slicks with approximately 20 heat cycles on them, mounted to period correct "Turbine Style" aluminum wheels

1 spare tire in trunk on steel wheel

Brakes:

Rebuilt front calipers with new seals

New rear cylinders

Stainless brake lines on all 4 corners

New pads front and rear

New brake booster

E-Brake works great, although lever is a little worn

This car stops on a dime

Engine:

Weber 32/36 Carburetor with recent rebuild (runs and idles smooth, no hesitation on throttle) with port matched intake manifold

Stahl Headers linked to an ANSA full exhaust.

Poly engine and transmission mounts

This car is smog exempt due to it's year (1975) so all of these modifications are perfectly legal.

Transmission:

Stick shift 4 speed - original getrag transmission -- shifts smoothly and stays in all gears, I rebuilt the whole shifter assembly with all new bushings so it's very crisp to shift

Interior:

Car has an interior from and earlier model 2002, it's brown on black with a white headliner and very slick.

Replacement carpet set in brown that could use a little bit of care to improve the fit and finish

Has small diameter polyurethane steering wheel, actually very comfortable but you need a little muscle to turn in parking lots (no power steering)

Pioneer head unit with auxiliary audio jack set into a nice custom laser cut center console that's been painted a nice black

2 Speakers in the front and wired for rear speakers but they're not installed. I've got em in a box that you can have if you'd like.

Issues:

-Needs new valve stem seals -- burns oil on deceleration, although it's bearable if you aren't too crazy with the skinny pedal

-Drivers side seat torn (I re-stuffed it with foam for comfort but it was a little too much stress for the old vinyl)

-Minor rust and bubbling in paint on various areas of the car (nothing structural, can easily be repaired, can send pics of rust spots if truly interested)

-Transmission output flange -- could use a new one because the holes are elongated. This can cause the guibo (flex disc) to fail prematurely. The one in there has held up for 1000 miles so far and I believe it should last a few thousand more with daily driving. Hard driving may decrease life.

-Ignition key switch -- 1 out of 10 times you turn the key to start, the starter will not engage. I remedied this by adding an optional push button start in the center console (which works 100% of the time, guaranteed). If you want to do away with this push button the ignition key switch needs to be looked at by a mechanic. It could be as simple as a loose wire or mal-seated fuse, or require the ignition key cylinder to be cleaned/rebuilt. I didn't have time to bother with it so I just added the push button (it's actually pretty cool, all the new cars come with em now).

I am asking $7000 negotiable. This car is now 36 years old, and it is not perfect, but pretty good for it's age. Mechanically, I don't think it can get any better (bar the valve stem seals and intermittent ignition issue), considering everything I've replaced. The car is a very solid performer and I trust this car to be as reliable as any new car on the road due to the meticulous maintenance that I've done on it. It also can give most performance cars a run for their money in the corners. If you give me asking price, I will replace the valve stem seals (fixes burning oil problem) and replace the transmission output flange (never worry about replacing a flex disc again) before you buy. I've also got a box of spare parts I can throw in that has some extra light bulbs, Bosch Rally Lights, a second carburetor, and some other loose goodies.

If you have any questions or want to take a look at the car - call or text -- (631) 466-4373 Ian

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Silver 75 02

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Thanks for the kind comment, and good question -

The doors and trunk have the holes filled from behind with bondo and have been painted over. The Hood and body do not. I have the beltline trim (minus like 1 or 2 pieces...) in the garage along with new stainless fastener set i've neglected to install. That comes with the car - you'll probably have to purchase 1 or 2 pieces of beltline.

Silver 75 02

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