info on install of stainless brake hoses

[quickersilver]

Planning on swapping over the stock rubber hoses to stainless. Had a question regarding required bleeding as I will be doing swap unassisted.

In theory, if you switch each hose without letting the master cyl run empty from escaping fluid when unscrewing/screwing on new and don't depress the brake pedal- air should not enter the system, requiring bleeding. Is this correct?

If not I would imagine, bleeding process would require less cycles to get full hard pedal.

Lastly, are there any other bits needed to for install? I don't believe crush washers go between female end of the line and male threaded fitting.

Is teflon thread sealing tape advised. Any other pointers for a successful outcome desired. Trying to avoid a simple repair turning into a larger nightmare.

Thanks gang

[SteveJ]

You WILL want to bleed the system. Breaking free these connections will put some contaminates into the fluid. Those could migrate down to caliper/cylinder seals and cause problems later.

I would get under the car and start spraying some penetrating oil on the connections for the rear hoses. These are almost always siezed. Give 'em a few light taps with a hammer and spray them down. If you strip or mangle one of these, it could mean replacing the hard line on the rear trailing arm. That will be a bigger project.

If you look at the ends of the hose and pipe, you will see where the seat is. That is where things will seal. I'd go ahead and use teflon/pfte tape on the threads, but sparingly and careful not to get it into the seating area. It could make things easier if you ever need to disconnect the hose again. Purple loctite/222 (NOT blue or red) could also serve the purpose of sealing the threads. The break strength is low enough. Either way, you need to be sure things are clean and dry from the brake fluid or nothing will stay. Slide the threaded ferrule up the pipe, clean, install tape/loctite, then assemble.

While you are under the car, clean stuff up and take notes. There's probably other projects lurking under there.

[dtharp113]

I'll be doing the same project -- how much brake fluid/ how big of a mess should I be prepared for?

[AceAndrew]

Is teflon thread sealing tape advised.

Mandatory, but as already said you don't need gobs of the stuff.

[1453aalapapa]

flare end wrenches. ONLY flare end wrenches. anything else, and you will be sorry

[BLUNT]

I may be the odd man out here but I wouldnt use teflon tape on braided brake lines

[jgerock]

Only use flare wrenches where applicable. The larger hose wrench flats will take a regular open-end wrench.

After you have sprayed penetrant on the connection points and are ready to break (sorry, no pun intended) the lines free, open the reservoir cap and add a piece of folded over plastic wrap (Saran wrap) and tighten the cap back on. This might help limit the loss of fluid when you open the system.

[M3M3]

system bleed is required anytime you break open the system.

personally, i would never use any teflon tape in a brake fitting. nor, in 10 years of racing, have I ever heard of anyone using teflon tape in a brakeline. the fittings are designed to seal and it is a high pressure system. brake fluid would just eat the tape, and if the fitting seal is not good, a little tape ain't gonna stop 700+lbs of fluid pressure. leave the teflon tape in your shop drawer.

+1 on spraying all fittings with liquid wrench the day before you take apart an old system.

get a 9mm, 11mm and 14mm flare wrench. do not use visegrips, adjustable wrenches or open box end wrenches on brake line fittings.

jmho, ymmv....

[jimk]

The threads don't seal nothing. The nut just holds the joint together. It's like putting teflon tape on a pipe union, duh!

[BillWilliams]

Dennis - get a quart to ensure a good flushing. Do not use any left over down the road. It attracts moisture.

No matter how I have tried to keep brake fluid contained, it still gets everywhere. Take what precautions you can to contain it but be prepared to clean it up off the floor. Clean thoroughly off of paint, it is a paint remover.

[SteveJ]

do not use visegrips, adjustable wrenches or open box end wrenches on brake line fittings.

I disagree.

Vice grips are what you'll resort to after you think you can get away without flarenut wrenches.

Once you round off the first one, the cost of the set of wrenches doesn't seem like a whole lot of money. After you round off the second one, you start to wonder why you needed to change any of these parts to begin with. After the third one you are just in a giggling fit of grabbing any tool in the box to see how much more damage you can inflict on a simple, stupid connector.

Get some flare nut wrenches.

(can't believe I forgot to mention THAT detail.)

[jplips]

Hi,

Just to let you know that I replaced the old rubber ones with stainless steel version and absolutely love them. Had to cut a hard pipe and replace since the bolt did not get loose.

Did not put Teflon on the threads since the stainless coupling seems to seal pretty well.

Go for it and you have to bleed the system even with the plastic on top of the fluid reservoir....I tried this as well without luck.

Oh, yes and I did use different color DOT4 fluid to see when the old fluid was displaced.

Good luck

[Napes]

As others above have stated, when I installed my stainless brake lines about 12+ yrs. ago I used NO teflon tape or Locktite. I've had them on my wife's car for about 6-7 yrs.

I've never had a leak in any of the connection during that time. And, yea, this is your excuse to purchase some flare nut wrenches.

Bob Napier

[JohnS]

Buy a gallon of denatured alcohol from the local hardware store for cleaning up brake fluid. It works great for clean-up. I learned that from reading the label on the Motive pressure bleader on how to clean it.

EDIT 08-03-2011: Don't get the Craftsman flare nut wrenches, they suck. Invest in top-notch ($$) flare nut wrenches (Snap-on, Hazet, etc.)

[Cameron]

Don't forget a 7mm for the bleeder screws.