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Which radiator option for HIGH Temp climate?


johns1974

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Thanks for all the responses! Looks like the 1st thing I'll do is put on an electric fan and I think I'll still do the 3-core upgrade, as well.

IE's fan kit seems the most reasonable. Those Spal fans are $175 just for the fan plus all the harnesses etc. It looks like $250 or more to get the fan working. I'm curious which Spal fan you chose (there are dozens) and how you mounted it...

TIA!

'74 2002 (Non-Op)

'74 2002 (Good to go)

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I have the nameless performance radiator (which was prototyped on my car): http://namelessperformance.com/products/16022002/bmw-2002-fabricated-2-row-radiator/ and the stock fan, that solved my cooling issues and fits using the factory locations and hoses (unlike the 320i option). If I lived in an even hotter climate and was having more trouble I'd consider replacing the stock fan with a big electric fan that's on a variable-speed controller.

So it is able to be installed with the existing 4 bolts or does one need to drill new mounting holes? Do they need a core or is it "from scratch"?

'74 2002 (Non-Op)

'74 2002 (Good to go)

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If you want another option...electric fan....12" Spal pusher fan, stock radiator....NO ISSUES. I was in Arizona 118 degree heat and driving 90 with the temp less than half way up.....

Which model Spal fan please, and did you set it up to auto-start at a certain temp?

My SPAL fan was a 12" high performance pusher with curved blades...there is only one..I'll get you the actual model later today. It was about $125 if I recall. I use a factory BMW fan temp switch and it turns on and off at a certain water temp. Its rarely on...just when idling for a while. I wired in a manual bypass switch as well so I can flip it on from inside the car when I want to, and the switch is lighted so it lights up whenever the fan is on regardless of the switch so I KNOW its working and when it isnt. I can also hear it when idling. The only thing you need is the fan, Mounting brackets (Lee at Massive sells mounts for it that mount to the sock bolts the radiator bolts to. So no drilling no mounting issues), and get a Tii or e30 water neck with multiple temp ports for the temp sensor. Mine looks factory, uses all factory parts except the fan itself, and works flawlessly. I only have a stock 2 core radiator, I'll upgrade to 3 core when mine goes bad.

1976 BMW 2002 Fjord Blue Ireland Stage II • Bilstein Sports • Ireland Headers • Weber 38 • 292 Cam • 9.5:1 Pistons • 123Tune Bluetooth 15" BBS

2018 BMW M550i X-Drive

1964 Volvo Amazon Wagon
http://www.project2002.com

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thermostat, 4 blade fan, no shroud and an E21 pusher fan (with a thermostatic switch in the coolant plenum on the underside of the intake manifold - modified 75 2bbl intake) for years - even in ambient temps over 110 F, the temp gauge never goes past the middle of the blue range. Idling in 100 + temps in stop & go traffic, the temp needle will edge up just short of the middle of the blue band, fan kicks on, and the needle immediately drops to the lower third.

System produces plenty of heat in the winter, too.

Barry Allen
'69 Sunroof - sold
'82 E21 (daily driver), '82 633CSi (wife's driver) - both sold
66 Chevy Nova wagon (yard & parts hauler)

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I have the nameless performance radiator (which was prototyped on my car): http://namelessperformance.com/products/16022002/bmw-2002-fabricated-2-row-radiator/ and the stock fan, that solved my cooling issues and fits using the factory locations and hoses (unlike the 320i option). If I lived in an even hotter climate and was having more trouble I'd consider replacing the stock fan with a big electric fan that's on a variable-speed controller.

So it is able to be installed with the existing 4 bolts or does one need to drill new mounting holes? Do they need a core or is it "from scratch"?

Existing bolt holes, and it's from scratch, you don't need to send them anything.

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So here is the deal on cooling systems from my research. The stock system works fine...when its WORKING. Its simple and efficient, but it wasnt designed for SUPER hot climates. There was the tropical fan, the shroud, etc and this was designed to keep temps down. The problem is when you have parts on a car that are sometimes 30 or 40 years old. Its not easy to get OPTIMAL performance unless you get new parts. So new radiator, fan, water pump, t-stat, and hoses and belts. This should get you back to stock performance. One thing that ALWAYS stood out to me was how many stories I heard of 2002s running hot or overheating. One of the most common questions I get from anyone on the street that says they USED to have one is "Does it overheat? Mine used to...". So I looked into how to improve the system. I went with electric fan. It reduces the strain on the engine (slightly) and increases the HP (slightly) because it doesnt have the belt driven fan. It makes the engine quieter because there is no propellor running at all times in the car. The electric fan comes on at specific temps and shuts off at specific temps. In many cases you can select the correct temps for your climate. You get superior cooling when you need it! At low RPM's, or sitting stationary, the engine fan has a hard time keeping it cool. So the car will heat up...it will keep going in alot of cases until it overheats if your cooling system isnt up to par. The solution is to drive and the air coming into the radiator is enough to cool the car down...so you dont need the fan on then. It works better when you LEAST need it. The electric fan gives you a HUGE amount of airflow when stopped or at low speeds and when driving it turns off, making the engine more efficient when you are driving by not having an ever increasing drag on the engine that only increases with engine speed. So do you NEED an electric fan...no, not if your cooling system is up to par. In my opinion its nice insurance to have the extra cooling capacity.

1976 BMW 2002 Fjord Blue Ireland Stage II • Bilstein Sports • Ireland Headers • Weber 38 • 292 Cam • 9.5:1 Pistons • 123Tune Bluetooth 15" BBS

2018 BMW M550i X-Drive

1964 Volvo Amazon Wagon
http://www.project2002.com

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I agree, I replaced the water pump, thermostat, fan, and hoses but the car still ran hot. A new radiator and now it's perfectly fine. The stock one isn't made anymore but likely (when new) did the job. I didn't want any used parts or the 320i one (which at least you can buy new) since it's plastic/aluminum and doesn't fit right, so the one Nameless Performance makes (brand new and stock mounting and hoses) solved the problem well. Also I think it looks cool and won't fall apart ; )

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