engine and drivetrain 1968 Bmw 2002

[51Hudson]

This past weekend me and my father had accquired a 1968 bmw 2002. This is not my first classic but you can never have to many toys. I have a 1951 Hudson Commodore. We have gotten this 2002 and unfortunatly for the owner he did not have the time or space for it in his new home. he is a friend of my father and this 2002 has been sitting for the past 25 to 30 years. The hasn't ran since then, I know that I'm will have to clean the carborator, and lube the cylinder walls. Is there anything other that I would need to do to get it running again? I know that it was common for these Bmws to over heat due too lacking a extra fan on the radiator is there a kit for this or just get a normal 12 volt fan and that will surfice. Sorry for all the questions being asking I just dont want to run into a wall went we try to get this car started and avoid destroying the engine. Thanks alot

[slash02]

This past weekend me and my father had accquired a 1968 bmw 2002. This is not my first classic but you can never have to many toys. I have a 1951 Hudson Commodore. We have gotten this 2002 and unfortunatly for the owner he did not have the time or space for it in his new home. he is a friend of my father and this 2002 has been sitting for the past 25 to 30 years. The hasn't ran since then, I know that I'm will have to clean the carborator, and lube the cylinder walls. Is there anything other that I would need to do to get it running again? I know that it was common for these Bmws to over heat due too lacking a extra fan on the radiator is there a kit for this or just get a normal 12 volt fan and that will surfice. Sorry for all the questions being asking I just dont want to run into a wall went we try to get this car started and avoid destroying the engine. Thanks alot

Welcome to the group.

If the car has a 4 bladed fan then yes, there's an upgrade. You can run with the 4 bladed fan, its in hotter climates and under load or during lots of sitting where the 5 bladed fan makes a difference, lots of us have converted to a 12v fan.

A popular upgrade is the 320i radiator upgrade (320i is the car that came after the 2002, same engine though bigger rad). When I lived in florida and had an 02 with AC, that rad was the one to have.

Look on the side of the block either on the intake or exhaust side for a bolt, that will drain the coolant. You might want to run a hose through the cooling system and replace coolant. Hydraulic lines will be an issue, replace them all. They will have swollen almost shut or become very hard..

You'll find the 2002 should fire up easily enough once the carb is de-gunked. You might need a rebuild kit for the carb if the accelertor pump diaphragm is dead from age (as was my 62 olds 88).

Have a good read through the FAQs. and we're here to answer questions.

Welcome to the madness.

[51Hudson]

Hey thanks alot, I honestly apperciate it. Its a weekend car, and I only get to work on it then. I'm 16 and I'm a junior in highschool, so the hudson is my car and the bmw is mine and my dads so its a project and when we get the bmw running I'm allowed to drive it school. Thanks - Paul

[slash02]

Hey thanks alot, I honestly apperciate it. Its a weekend car, and I only get to work on it then. I'm 16 and I'm a junior in highschool, so the hudson is my car and the bmw is mine and my dads so its a project and when we get the bmw running I'm allowed to drive it school. Thanks - Paul

You're in good company I got my first 2002 when I was 17.

Here's a PDF copy of the factory manual. Thanks to eurotrash.

https://files.me.com/itsgiggleboxtime/7fapmi

[c.d.iesel]

first ...... (oh yea - WELCOME) "it was common for these

Bmws to over heat due too lacking a extra fan on

the radiator is there a kit for this or just get a

normal 12 volt fan and that will surfice" = is a bold face lie,

not true, and nonsense. People just compensate for other

areas lacking proper maintanence with such stuff.

Your car will need a new water pump, thermostat, all new hoses,

a recore of the original radiator, and a through draining and flushing.

Over heatiing is not 'common' - and the head gasket will likely

be in bad conditon, and if not leaking already, will be after a

few hundred miles of driving. Brace yourself for lots of work.

The brake and clutch hydraulic systems will be toast also.

The rubber seals turned to goo. The caliper pistons seized.

Rubber brake hoses mush. If this car has been sitting inactive for 10

or more years, all of this plus more will need restoration.

The electrical system will not be sweet either. Every connection, relay, gauge, will need attention, cleaning, treating for oxidation, ground

connections cleaned and treated, week wiring repaired.......

the carb will indeed need cleaning, and likely all new jets due

to years of stuck on deposiits that prevent the jets flowing

accurately to their precise drill size. THE GAS TANK may pose a

real challenge. It will contain rust, deposits, dirt. Remove the pickup

sending unit on the top under the trunk floor board and look inside.

You may have a drain bolt located under the tank to the rear of the passenger tire area. CAREFULL breaking it free for flushing out.

[bluebmw]

Hey thanks alot, I honestly apperciate it. Its a weekend car, and I only get to work on it then. I'm 16 and I'm a junior in highschool, so the hudson is my car and the bmw is mine and my dads so its a project and when we get the bmw running I'm allowed to drive it school. Thanks - Paul

Nice to see that the younger generation is keeping the 02 spirit alive. I'm almost done painting my 76 for my senior project (required to graduate).

[TobyB]

One of the things to look at pretty early on are the brakes-

the earlier 68's had a tiny caliper that wasn't all that hot.

It worked- in 1968 terms.

You'll want to go through the entire brake system anyway,

so if you find the small front calipers, it's a good time to upgrade

to the later ones.

The easiest way to tell is that there's only 1 hose per side on the small

setup, and 2 on the later 4- piston setup.

And of course, that's just one tip of this iceberg.

t

[eastsidebimmer]

What is your VIN? I have 1661250, May 68 Production, Chamonix White.

How about some pics?

Cool and Welcome.

[51Hudson]

Thanks all of you

[51Hudson]

I couldn't upload any pictures

but still no rust in any of the common places

[TobyB]

Scale them down to jpegs under 500k and they'll upload as attachments.

It has rust. They all do! None of the interior body structure was painted

or protected very well....

...but that's normal! And not a huge deal...

From your VIN, you can probably disregard my earlier post...

t

[Nicad]

Don't use the factory jack point. I thought mine had no rust till I tried it.

[Mike Self]

1. Remove the gas tank and clean it out thoroughly. It's under the trunk floor and comes out with four bolts. 30 year old gas is not gonna work very well!

2. You do have the early, two piston caliper front brakes; make sure they work, and it woulnd't be a bad idea to power bleed the whole system to get fresh fluid in. Parts are difficult to find for those calipers as they were only used on 68s and early 69s. If you have problems with 'em, somewhere I have a reference to an contemporary Opel caliper that interchanges. I also suspect the flexible brake hoses are shot--they tend to swell internally and keep the brakes from releasing when you release the pedal. Safest thing is to go through the whole brake system.

3. Early cooling systems were OK except for very hot areas. I still run the original 4 blade fan on my '69 with no problems at all. If you still have the original brass thermostat, I'd at least test it for proper function, if not replace with a new one. Flush out the radiator, and have it pressure tested. If it's clean and the 'stat is good, you should be OK. There's lots more to do, so keep us posted on your progress. And welcome.

cheers

mike

[51Hudson]

Hey thanks I'll be getting the car sometime next month around the 9th, so I hope we can work on it in the winter months. We just had a carport installed, and we bought a diesel/kerosine heater to warm us in the winter.

[roadhog0]

The rad doesnt need to be recored... I run a 76k mile original rad (sat for 20 years w/ coolant IN it) and I never go above half way on a day at 90*. If your hoses for the cooling system look OK they probably are. Mine are 20+ years old and just fine. Fuel hoses need to be replaced! This is the important part! The old fuel lines crack, I know... rebuild or replace your calipers, clutch slave, clutch, brake lines, sub frame and suspension bushings, steering links, wheel bearings up front at least, ball joints, any seals that are bad, I recommend going to a Weber 32/36 cause the Solex's are so temperamental. This is all from resurrecting a 2002 that sat for 20 years. I have had to do all this but I've done this over the matter of 2 1/2 years. I'm 18 and got my 02 when I was 16. If you have any question fell free to shoot me an email! Enjoy!!