Tii linkage finding

[bnam]

Was redoing my block grounding and wiring so had to remove the accelerator linkage mount that's just below it. While I had it off, I measure the long linkage and found it be at 296mm, while the shorter one was correct at 85mm.

I tried to shorten it and got it to 289 perhaps a shade over. Could not get it any shorter as one side had bottomed out and I could not get the other side nut to loosen and I was scratching the ball joint while holding it with pliers.

I had already ordered 2 ball joint from Max. In case I am not able to get the current stubborn end off (any tips), can I get just a rod?

What a difference correcting the length made. It had been running well before, but the throttle response was laggy. Now much improved.

This along the the new pedal, bushing, and linkage bushings has taken out all the slop and the feels much better.

Byas

[c.d.iesel]

....... SEE! we told you .

enjoy the new found power - keep improving to the basics

[BillWilliams]

The rod at the longer length will definitely slow response and would not let you get to WOT.

I think Jack Fahanna at ProBMW in CA sells the rods with the ends on them.

[c.d.iesel]

[bnam]

Are the ball joints on A left and right hand threaded or are they both regular?

Also, #1 in the second diagram -- what's the correct length for that?

B

[BillWilliams]

On a stock threaded rod, the two ends are one left and one right. Because, they are designed to be left on the connections, loosen the jam nut and spin the rod to adjust the length. So, one left and one right.

#1 is usually a fixed length rod.

[lilmo]

Are the ball joints on A left and right hand threaded or are they both regular?

Also, #1 in the second diagram -- what's the correct length for that?

B

I've got 4 of the "A" rods and they are all right hand thread on both ends. I don't think that rod length requires quite the precision as the one between the TB and the Kfish.

The #1 rod is a mystery to me, too. RH threads both ends, but a lock nut on one end. I usually lock the kfish at WOT, block the gas pedal to the stop, and adjust the #1 length to fit.

[bnam]

I just pulled out the "B" rod. It measures at 83.5mm vs. the 85mm. What does that do to the fuel mixture? I'm assuming it will cause richness as the pump is now "ahead" of the throttle valve.

Also, I plan to put a new cup bushing. Are there any step by steps on that?

Thanks for all the assistance in getting this car "de-bothched."

Byas

[jgerock]

Also, I plan to put a new cup bushing. Are there any step by steps on that?

Byas

Pretty easy.

Lift out the vertical linkage from the KF pump and look to see if you actually have a cup in the recess. Install new one with some lube and re-secure the linkage.

You will have to remove the tiny spring inside the throttle body (be careful not to break the spring), loosen the coupling joining the upper and lower vertical linkages together then lift the upper section freeing the lower section.

Check the coupling at the accelerator return spring pin for wear.

Old versus new cups along with the NLA protective boot

[bnam]

Removed it -- but since I was there, I also removed the throttle body to clean it up.

First the linkage:

* The lower part ball is worn down so that even the new cup sits loose.

* The middle part that has the spring is worn down like in your pic -- can I fill up with JB weld? Or buy new?

* The upper part is worn by 0.25mm in the part where it sits on the lower brass bushing -- near where the upper and lower parts are coupled.

Am I looking at replacing all 3 parts?

See lower worn ball.

see wear on the shaft

Byas

[bnam]

Just looked up parts in Max -- looks like only the lower intermediate shaft is available.

Was surprised to see that the Gasket between throttle body and plenum is $36 -- wow! what makes it so expensive.

The gaskets I found (there were actually 2 of them) both looked thin and stiff, but for $36, I wonder if I should just use sealant...

Is there some place I could take the upper shaft to and have them weld up the slight depression on the shaft and then grind it down?

Or should I just live with it -- and hope that a new lower section plus cub will eliminate most of the play.

Thx!

Byas

[jgerock]

If you can afford to, go ahead and purchase some of the linkage parts now - you never know when they will stop being available.

The lower vertical linkage piece is pretty reasonable.

New versus old

Return spring for warm up regulator arm

My upper linkage isn't as worn as yours - but will still work fine as long as it doesn't wobble too much.

I just made a gasket for the throttle body.

Contact Rob Torres at 2002 Haus in San Luis Obispo, CA regarding the coupling. He can provide you with a coupling with new pin on an exchange basis.

Is yours as bad as this?

[bnam]

Yes, I will buy the lower part. Will check with to Rob on Mon. What material did you make the gasket out of?

The pin to hold the spring is worn worse on mine -- almost 2/3rd of the way thru.

Byas

[jgerock]

What material did you make the gasket out of?

Byas

Standard gasket roll material from local auto parts store. Trace old one on gasket roll and cut with scissors/box cutter.