Tii intake reassembly

[BillWilliams]

Kris.

Removing the wires from the white fixture works like this:

[kris]

Kris.

Removing the wires from the white fixture works like this:

Bill, you are the man. With our balmy weather, I'm going to try this tomorrow

[kris]

Kris - -nice work on the engine. Is the braided hose from W&U different from a braided fuel hose?

Byas

The fuel and the vacuum hose are different diameters. In no way do you need to run braided for the vacuum hose, but it does look good. Walloth sells it, and that link that John gave is great, I've never seen a US site with some many braided hose choices. You need wire reinforced braided hose, and it's best to tape it before you cut it, and use a hack saw to get the best cut. I don't have the proper diameter in front of me, and the car is stored, but I'm sure someone here can chime in on the size.

Here is a good reference site for tii questions including hose placement etc.

http://www.my2002tii.com/spring_2005/tiihoses.htm

Here is a picture (with credit to Keith Kreeger as it's from my2002tii.com)

[bnam]

Well you are gaining on it.

Was the warm-up regulator down in the hole a bit? Some of those cones actually recess a bit. If so, this may add a mm or two to your measurements.

I measure about 2.5mm of recess when cold and an extension to 7mm when hot. So that gets close.

I checked points gap and set timing at 7deg BTDC at ~950-1000.

Need to check CO next, but will need an WB02 sensor for that.

Car is running well now. No more huge (or any) surging at idle. I do still wonder if the warm up regulator is a bit weak -- as in not closing soon enough. There was a posting on another thread that Bill has posted a tip on de-grunging the warm up regulator, but I could not find that posting so a repost or a link would be appreciated.

And finally -- installed a new w=1.393 speedo (from W&N) this evening.

Looking forward to taking the car for a longer drive this weekend.

Byas

[BillWilliams]

Glad you are sneaking up on it and getting some victories.

I can not remember posting anything on degrunging the warm-up regulator. So I can not help you there.

What are you saying you timed your car to? A tii should be timed at 2,400 rpms and seeing half the BB in the window which I think is 24 or 27 degrees BTDC.

[bnam]

I set to 7deg BTDC at idle. Per the Kfish manual it should be between 4 and 9 here (2 to 7 per Haynes). I believe this is the Keith Kreeger/Rob Torres secret sauce recipe as well.

I have a lightened flywheel (IE?) and not sure it has a ball (or one at the right spot).

The appendix of the Kfish manual says that the 74Tii should be timed at 25deg at 2700rpm.

I wondered why BMW suggested timing at the flywheel ball vs. the pulley and at the higher rpm. Searching some more - the answer seems to be: At the flywheel because the larger diameter enables more accuracy, and at 2700 rpm as this will check that the advance mechanism is working and not hindered by dried up grease etc.

I used the idle approach since I wasn't sure the flywheel had a ball or one in the right location and did not have someone to hold the engine speed at 2700. Since I have a newish distributor, I was hoping that would be ok.

But, this weekend I will have my wife help me and I'll check the advance curve.

Byas

[BillWilliams]

I checked the Tii manual and it says timing is 25 degrees btdc at 2,700 rpms and dwell angle is 59 - 65 degrees.

Apologize for guessing earlier.

[bnam]

Update on warm up regulator --

My warm up regulator was recessed -- sitting 2.5mm below @65F when it should be flat at 68F. A recessed regulator piston will allow air thru the regulator for a longer duration.

I suspected this to be the cause of the high idle of ~2500 that occurs when the temp is in the upper part of the blue and in the lower part of the white range of the gauge -- engine is warm enough that the excess air + fuel was causing it to rev up. This was really annoying as after driving for a few miles, I'd be sitting at a stop light with my engine revving.

I planned to adjust the regulator and thought i would need to take it out of the car. But, after playing with the spare regulator, I figured I could do the adjustment without taking the regulator out.

Warmed up the car so that the piston was at its max rise of ~7mm. Used a racheting box wrench on the lock nut above the cone to turn the shaft till the grub screw was pointed out as in pic below (though this is a pic from my spare)

Made a mark on the Cone as reference point. Inserted allen key into grub screw and loosened it and then used the allen key to prevent the piston from rotating while I used the ratcheting box wrench to turn the shaft 2.5 turns (since I was down 2.5mm). Made sure height of the piston was 10mm. Locked the grub screw and let it cool.

Once it cooled I reset the eccentric screw to 2.6mm gap while holding piston with the tool.

And that solved the problem. Now it idles correctly at all temperatures.

[BillWilliams]

What are you calling the "shaft" and what are you calling the "piston"?

[bnam]

What I refer to as the piston is the part the rises out of the regulator as it warms up -- the one with the slot for the tool and the grub screw as seen on pic above.

The shaft is the threaded rod that goes thru this piston and on which the the cone/hat and lock nut are affixed.

B