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tii chugging at 2400 rpm


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I've got a '73 tii that chugs at constant speed at 2400 rpm's. It almost seems like the fuel pump cuts off and on. We've checked it, changed filters, new plugs, cap, etc. Any ideas?

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inspect, measure, repair floppy control linkage ?

condition of your distributor ? is the "BALL" fluctuating

all over in the timing inspection hole ?

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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We're going to need additional information to help diagnose this one.

As Bill mentioned, is this a new problem?

How long does the car sit if it isn't your daily driver (old gas)?

Does it happen when both warm and cold?

If you run the car above or below that 2400 rpm, does the engine run OK?

Do you have access to a CO meter or Wideband O2 sensor? This seems to be the best way to diagnose a tii.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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Guest Anonymous

The car is my son's daily driver for about four years. He replaced the fuel filter by the radiator and it started running really rough at constant rpm. 2000, 2500, 3500. It runs strong on acceleration but as soon as you level out it starts chugging. Linkages measure right. The distributor has a good 1/8" up and down play in the shaft. It has a pertronix ignitor. We checked for vacuum leaks. Don't have the CO or O2 gauges, are they expensive?Thanks for all the help.

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Was the proper metal fuel filter used? Is it installed so fuel flows in the proper direction?

Are the hoses connected to the bibs on the fuel filter so air is not sucked through those connections? No tears, cracks, etc...

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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what is cheap is a fuel pressure gauge - you need one to test your

FUEL INJECTION. Without knowing if the correct fuel pressure is present

you might as well just park it, remove the battery, and drive the Honda.

you need to see 28 ...30psi all the time it's running

Having access to an exhaust gas tester is as important.

Guessing just doesn't make it.

Owning and performing your own maintanence requires

a min. of special tools. Compression tester, fuel Pressure

gauge, oil pressure gauge, cooling system pressure tester.

and the linkage may 'measure' right - but what does

matter is the 40 years of wear of the linkage ball/sockets

and bushings. The control linkage must have ZERO play

everywhere for it to run like a Tii.

The distributor mechanical advance/point plate must

move smoothly and freely. Spring advance and

retarded easily. If not, that can contribute

to the stumbling at constant rpms.

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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Guest Anonymous

We did use OEM filter and arrows are pointing in right direction. Heading to parts store to purchase fuel pressure gauge. Any tips on hooking up would be greatly appreciated. i.e. where to hook up, any adapters I may need. Thanks again for all the help.

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" T " the fuel gauge into the Cold Start injector hose on top of the motor

BE VERY GENTLE! disconnecting the hose from that injector -

they have a habit of leaking after you touch them!

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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Guest Anonymous

Fuel pressure at 28 psi, timing set, still pulsing 2400-2800. Seems like it's running lean, I've heard of a screw on the injector pump that can richen the fuel, but you're not supposed to mess with it. Any idea which screw that is?

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