tii chugging at 2400 rpm

[BillWilliams]

If you fool with the "verbotten" screw, you change the fuel delivery across the complete curve. So, theoretically, if it is running ok at all other RPMS, then adjusting that screw will screw everything else up.

[c.d.iesel]

....and I have not heard conformation that the

control linkage is spot on yet - and correct functioning

of the warm-up regulator - read that manual link above

Nicht fiddlinn mit der einsprtizin screws because

yer nict qualified technicht wrenchin twister!

[jgerock]

Please share a picture of the inside of your throttle body "tuna can".

Like this

You said your fuel pressure gauge was reading 28 psi. Was this at idle speed? Was it still 28 if you revved the engine? What I did was leave the gauge connected, wrap it in a rag and lean it up against the windshield with the hood closed (but not latched) while I did a test drive. My fuel pressure would drop on acceleration due to the load on the pump - this will most likely drop if your screens are clogged. You need both pressure and volume to satisfy the KF system since the overall pressure is maintained by the return valve on the back of the KF pump.

The main issue I had was one of the plug wires was bad (they were only 3 years old). The car would miss when I accelerated, but ran fine at idle and during regular driving. I mis-diagnosed my problem blaming my fuel pump.

Saying that, how old are your plug wires? I recommend checking their resistance using a VOM (volt/ohm meter). My # 2 plug wire and my coil wire were both faulty.

[Guest Anonymous]

OK. The two linkages are now set to spec. Both were about 2-3mm short. Fuel pressure is 26 to the cold start no matter what rpm. RPM fluctuates about 400 rpm at any range. I'll get a pic of the tuna can soon. Timing is good. Wires all spec out pretty much the same (1.3 ohm). Putting a bid on a CO meter with probe on ebay.

[BillWilliams]

Ok, you are closing in on it and that is good. Have you exhausted all possibilities of any vacuum leaks?

Remember, any adjustments in the tuna can will ONLY affect idle.

Also, a CO meter with a probe will ONLY measure CO at idle.

So, take all that into consideration if you really want to get the car right at running.

[Guest Anonymous]

Here's a pic of the tuna can. The idle screw has to be that far in to keep it running. Sprayed carb cleaner on vacuum lines and no change. What is the right kind of CO meter to get?

[BillWilliams]

You can also have vacuum leaks around the intake runners, throttle body etc. But I am sure your tests included those.

How about your distributor? Can it be worn? Any chance there is another tii around you can snag one from for a test?

Is the small tube running from the throttle body to the tube from the valve cover connected and not plugged?

Do a site search, many of those now running them have their favorites.

You need a WIDE BAND (not a narrow band) 02

sensor, a bung and a gauge. The bung welds into the down pipe for the sensor to screw into. If you go this route, plan the bung placement carefully so when you screw the sensor in, it will not interfere with the tunnel or the transmission.

The gauges range from a gauge with a numerical read-out to a series of LEDs.

[Guest Anonymous]

Thank you all so much, after looking at jgerock's tuna we set ours up similarly, and wow, smooth idle, and pretty smooth at speed. The idle screw has to be in a little too far to maintain idle (1/8" past the hole), but I think we should get it right once we get the CO set right. I saw a fuel/air mix wideband gauge at JEGS for $300 with O2 sensor(that's a little out of reach right now). The CO sensor with probe is $50. Which one could we use to set the CO mix screw in the tuna can?

[jgerock]

Please explain how you modified your car to match my picture. Did you simply turn the idle speed screw - or did you re-index the vertical throttle body shaft at the coupling?

I would save up and install a wideband 02 sensor. Well worth the investment.

[Guest Anonymous]

We reset everything according to the kugel book, and backed the CO mix screw most of the way out, doing 1/32 turns to get it as smooth as we could without the meterl That was so helpful having that book and everybody on the forum guiding us along. I can't thank you guys enough. The car has a header so where is the best place to install the sensor?

[BillWilliams]

The manual helps.

Here is an explanation on that adjustment to the intermediate shaft

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,368728/

I think the wideband 02 sensor should go in the down pipe area just before it meets the exhaust pipe or the resonator, whichever one you have.

It will end up right by the transmission.

Never mind that transmission mount and red thing but you can see the sensor off to the right

[BillWilliams]

Can you pull a plug or two and either post photos of them or describe them?