74-on Turn Signal switch repair (how to)

[bnam]

I just completed a repair on my 74 turn signal and thought I'd post the process in case it helps others.

The situation with the turn signal was that it would cancel in one direction, but not the other.

Pulling out the the switch, I found that one of the springs was no longer connected to the cancellation pin as it mounting point had broken off

The upper spring was still connected -- see the unbroken mounting point. I unhooked this spring on the casing end while I performed the next few steps.

The tools I used:

Using the pin vise and small drill bits I drilled a hole next to the broken mounting point. I started with a #78drill and drilled out with a #72 (0.025"). Here's the hole I drilled.

I then bent the inner end of the spring to be more L shaped vs. C shaped to make it easy to hook it back into this hole. With a little creative use of the tools -- I had it back in.

Now hook back the outer ends of both springs

And that's it. I sprayed in some electrical contact cleaner. A few drops of lubricant on the pivoting and sliding surfaces and back on the car.

Regards,

Byas

[Mike Self]

usually the "ramp" that wears so the turn signal lever won't stay in the left turn or right turn position unless you hold it in place.

The picture with your tools laid out, it looks like you're gonna perform dental surgery!

cheers

mike

[bnam]

Which part is the "ramp" -- is it perhaps something inside the switch? This was my first look at the switch -- perhaps I was lucky that it was only the spring mount that broke. Works perfectly now.

B

['76mintgrün'02]

Yesterday I fixed a switch.  Today I found the perfect thread in which to place the information 

(edit: not perfect, this is an earlier 72-73 switch, where the mechanism is exposed)

 

While playing with this '72-73 turn signal switch, I noticed that it would barely stay in the on position, especially in one direction.  The other was weak to hold as well.  I noticed that the ramps (which Mike mentions above) were worn, so I put the switch under the drill press to re-shape them.  I put the switch body in a vice to hold it flat and used a small Dremel stone to grind fresh notches.  (You can also see the little pieces of paper I cut and slipped in to keep the dust out of the switch).  

 

I thought I would give it a 'little extra depth' to make sure it held the on position, which it did.  The trip lever turned them off just fine, but to manually turn them off with the lever arm was almost impossible.  The lesson here is that it takes a very specific amount of 'ramp' to hold, but not too much.  I took an Exacto knife and scraped off the tip of the notch to find that happy medium, where it holds, but releases easily as well.  This was a fun fix and worthwhile, considering this switch goes for over $300 these days.

 

Another problem this one had, was that one of the little pins in the plug had the little keeper-tab broken off.  To fix this, I hammered the end of a little piece of copper wire flat and slipped the round end into the pin with a little JB Kwick.  Once set, I fine tuned the tab and put it back in its hole.  I like this fix because the copper is work hardened by pounding it flat.  If I had cut a thin strip out of sheet, it would have been very soft.  Likewise heating copper makes it soft, so soldering would not have worked as well as the epoxy.

 

 

Now I can put the switch in the mail and wait to hear if the guts are in working order.  Not a 'profitable' sale, but good fun just the same.

Edited March 20, 2015 by '76Mintgrun'02

[Koblenz]

Good write up!