Help me uninstall racing tensioner

[bnam]

PO had installed a mechanical tensioner on my car. What parts do I need and what procedure don I need to follow to revert back to the original?

Can I just unscrew the mechanical tensioner and insert the hydraulic one or do changes have to be made under the lower timing cover?

Thx,

Byas

[c.d.iesel]

unscrew what you have

screw in the new std. tensioner

order the complete tensioner form any bmwdealer, blunt, maximillion

takes the same time to do as it took me to type this -

really!

[bnam]

Great, thanks!! Had held off on this thinking that parts under the lower cover need to be changed as well.

Byas

[KFunk]

Don't forget to bleed it properly (long screwdriver down inside the front cover to push it back and forth until no bubbles come out and it gets solid).

On this subject, is it possible to bleed a tensioner properly if the engine is sitting upright on an engine stand (stand is bolted to right side engine moutn location, not bell housing boltholes)? From CD's picture of the engine tilted in place, it looks like gravity would help get th ebubbles out. But on the stand, the tensioner housing points upward and would likely hold an air bubble....

[bnam]

Don't forget to bleed it properly (long screwdriver down inside the front cover to push it back and forth until no bubbles come out and it gets solid).

Put the screwdriver thru the hole in which the piston and spring go or are you saying to remove the upper front cover and put screwdriver down -- or...

Thx,

Byas

[jgerock]

Take a look here on how to bleed the tensioner....

http://2002tii.org/?s=timing+chain+tensioner&search=Search

[bnam]

Perfect!! Thanks!

B

[bnam]

Finally got to replacing the tensioner. Also replaced the front cover gaskets. But, what's the deal with these holes on the head gasket at the most inopportune spot -- right at the joint?

No matter how much I cleaned, there was still some oil coming out of this hole above or seeping out of the joint. So not sure if the new gaskets with some sealant at the corners will hold up.

I also checked the valve clearances. I measured (intake/exhaust) the following:

#1: 0.014"/0.003"

#2: 0.010/0.004

#3: 0.005/0.008

#4: 0.008/0.004

I reset them all to 0.006 except #4 intake which I got to 0.007". The problem was that the allen key I was using was hitting the cylhead wall on that #4 intake and I couldn't tighten any further unless I shortened the lower part of the L.

I had to do each valve roughly 3 times to get it right as I finally figured out the right location for the cams.

Byas

[Tommy]

You're supposed to put dab of sealant in that hole. It should improve sealing of the known difficult spot.

Tommy

[bnam]

I did. Wondering what those holes are for.

B