Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

rear subframe install question..


Somchai

Recommended Posts

Is it posible to install the rear subframe with the swaybars ( IE ) already in place ? My concern is that with the SB's attached it will be dificult to lower the swingarms enough to insert the coil springs.

Or do I have to fit the subframe first along with the coils/shocks and diff etc first ?

I don't have a lift on anythign fancy.. My rebuild is being done in my car port with only a couple of axle stands and a trolley jack.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it would be easier to have the swaybar installed on the subframe (but like what was said above, 'leave the endlinks separated', and then installing everything as a semi-completed assembly.

Rearsubframeintact-1.jpg

This would be especially beneficial for the installation of the rear sway bar pivot bushings which can be a royal PITA. Reason being the rear IE swaybar is obviously thicker, so that means the urethane bushing is thinner (to fit in the stock bracket). A thinner bushing means less 'squish'/'give' to help get everything going. The trick is to use longer 8mm bolts to get the bracket started and alternate to shorter ones as you tighten down.

IMG_3226.jpg

IMG_3228.jpg

IMG_3233.jpg

It is my guess that the reason screws were used on the pivot bushing bracket from the factory is because the rear bar was put on after the subframe was on the car and the screws were easier to get the threads started.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. That was pretty much as I thought. It's hard enough to fit the bar and get the saddles pulled down over the bushes when on the bench. So didn't want to struggle once the frame was on the car. I'll leave the end links loose as suggested and see how it goes..

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

in reality, it should not be hard to put the bar on the subframe. the problem is all the urethane bushings are too big for the bracket. when you have to use progressive length bolts to get the thing on, you are ending up with way too much pressure on the bushing and the bar. the swaybar should easily be able to rotate and slide side to side when mounted on the subframe. if it can't, it is acting as uncontrolled binder in the suspension which negatively affects handling. it should not be loose, but it needs to be able to move freely.

every set of urethane bar bushings i have used (front and rear) have needed significant cutting and shaving to allow the bar to move. the right solution would be for someone to make a bracket that is just a touch bigger. i don't know why, but nobody apparently does.

mod to rear ie bar bush, bottom ground off and one corner competely removed.

DSCN4527.jpg

front needed washers to space the bushing away from the mounting block.

DSCN4503.jpg

2xM3

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ditto on installing the bars before you put the subframe in the car. The clamp or vise grips work well to get the IE poly bushing clamped down so you can start the bolts. So much easier outside the car. You can set the springs on the perches when you're getting it up close to the body. I cheated and used a fork truck from work. You can even attach the driveshaft if you don't feel like trying to struggle putting it up afterwards. I lifted the whole thing up in one piece very carefully by my lonesome.

post-15153-13667656556862_thumb.jpg

post-15153-13667656558667_thumb.jpg

post-15153-1366765656022_thumb.jpg

Mike Katsoris CCA#13294                                                

74 InkaGangster 4281862

2016 Porsche Boxster Spyder,    2004 BMW R1150RT,  
76 Estorilblau 2740318                      

 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks again for the info. I dry built the whole rear subframe assembly some weeks back and used longer bolts to pull the saddles down on the bushes. I was suprised to see how this caused the the bar to bind and prevent it from rotating. I'd planned to shim them out a way just as is shown on the front swaybar mount.

I'd toyed with the idea of mounting the diff/driveshafts as well and fitting the entire assembly as one. Don't think it is beyond me but was concerned about damaging my new paint or the powdercoat on my frames.. So will probably add the diff etc after. Will be sure to get the swaybars setup correctly first now..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...