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Fitting a stock air cleaner on a Weber 32/36 - a few ?s


malagalaga

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Wow, extra beautiful, if original.

 

Don't go to trouble shopping for playdough for me.

I am just curious how close you are, is all.

 

As for the secondary vacuum line you are referring to, I would have to disagree with that solution.  

That vacuum nipple typically connects to the vacuum pod on the distributor, with the one under it (on the manifold) being capped.  If you do not have a vacuum advance distributor, you want to cap both of them.  

 

Attaching it to the air cleaner is basically creating a vacuum leak.  

 

I'll bet you are not having a problem with oily blow by, because your engine is so fresh.

 

The little nipple on the air cleaner breather intake tube is for the fuel tank vent line, which came from the charcoal canister, with the stock set up.  My car does not have the canister, so I run the line straight into the nipple.

 

I know what you mean about the small Weber filters not having a provision for the little line.

I added one to mine and plumbed the vent into that.

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For what it's worth, I also added plumbing to direct the breather into the carb.

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Those bits now sit with the other 'extra parts', since I have "UPgraded" to the stock air cleaner :)

 

   

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  • 2 weeks later...

I compared my cover to a stock one and I have put an additional 1/4" of crown in it, while removing the dents.

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Today I made a holder for the air chisel and cut out a delrin block, to shape the lid.  

The string run over the trigger makes it a foot switch, so I can have both hands on the lid.

It is fun to watch the topside, while hammering up from the bottom, although most of the shaping was done with the dead blow over a sand bag.

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I did recheck the clearance between the lid and hood and it is just over half an inch.

The clearance between the top and bottom halves of the filter (inside) is an inch on mine, as opposed to three quarters, with the stock one.  I'd like to think that lets it breathe a little easier...... but pro'ly not much of a difference..

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  • 2 months later...

I usually cut the bottom of the airfilter housing out around the stock weld point and weld in a flat piece of metal,then cut it the configuration of the Weber. You also have to reinstall the breather tube. Very,very,easy and lots of relief between the AF and hood.

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I think I have seen photos of it done that way.  You do not use an adaptor, correct?  

 

I really appreciate the way the stock configuration allows the filter assembly to be removed with just three wing nuts, but I suppose it would not be a big deal to have to unscrew it from the top of the carb.

 

I decided to heat up the breather tube and put a dimple in it, where there had been interference.  I thought about hitting it cold, to avoid the smoke, but I am glad I went to the trouble of making it glow.  Hot steel moves like soft wax.

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I am ignoring the crack at the base of the tube, where it enters the housing.  The gray paint on the inside is too pretty to burn.

 

 

   

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  • 2 weeks later...

dq, I ran across this photo of an installation similar to the way you described, but it had been done to the smaller one barrel filter housing, from a '71.

Image result for 1971 bmw 2002 stock air cleaner

 

and one of the cover, which has only four 'ribs'. (The photos were swiped from here http://indiandales.blogspot.com/ )

engine

 

I recently purchased a lid from a 76 and began the restoration process.  

I am relearning the 'insist on seeing photos before buying' lesson; but the seller issued a partial refund of my purchase, which was more than fair.  I sent a refund of half of his refund... so I believe that transaction has been 'completed'.

 

This lid spent some time rubbing on the underside of a hood, removing much of the detail from the roundel.  

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A prior owner had apparently glued foam to the top, to protect the hood, so I started with a wire wheel, to keep the chunks out of the sand blasting cabinet.

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It looked better than expected after blasting, but definitely has some 'issues' to be dealt with.

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A scotch brite pad on the little right angle grinder helped bring the dings into view and smoothed things out some, after a little hammering; then it went back into the cabinet, for more blasting.

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I have three lids in my possession and all of them have the M off-center... which sort of bothers me, (more than it should).

I just missed buying this nice example, when it came up for sale on the FAQ.  Notice the M is off center in the oppOsite direction.  BMW needed a rib alignment addition to the stamping fixture, to get them on straight!

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My new one has had the outer ring rubbed away and the metal is thin in that area.  It has been pushed back up to about where it started, but I would like to recreate that outer ring... impractical as it may be.  

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A smarter guy would probably shop for a nicer lid, but having one that is compromised 'gives me permission' to mess with it.  I am toying with the idea of learning about using lead to build it back up, or may try epoxy.  I may need to cut it out and weld it back in straight first, so I can sleep at night.  Cheap fun.

 

 

 

   

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  • 7 months later...

I have not done anything more with the lid in the post above, but today I finally got a coat of black paint on the bottom half of my air cleaner.

 

The gray original paint was showing through the black paint a PO had applied, so I wound up stripping the entire outside back to bare metal.  So much for quick and dirty.  

 

Before shot

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Stripped, prior to 400 grit hand sanding 

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Primed

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Painted Krylon matte black (which is actually more like satin, imo).

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I left the inside the original gray color and gave it another coat of Blue Coral, so it is eXtra smooth and slippery.

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The rubber hose on the breather inlet has been keeping the inside of the assembly clean.

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It feels good to have that done.

 

 

Edited by '76mintgrun'02

   

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The guys at Napa let me browse through their supply of various pre-bent hoses stored in the back ofthe store until found one that had a 45 degree angle. Took it home, cut it to length and used an Exacto knife to cut a lip so it press fits into the hole of the housing. So far it's stayed put and works well. I have the Purolator housing for a late model.

Edited by 7502
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1 hour ago, Dudeland said:

Is there a way to buy that rubber bit inside the air cleaner ?  what is it called?

Do you mean the loop of VW windshield washer fluid tubing, acting as a seal?

Have you read this thread?

 

1 hour ago, 7502 said:

it press fits into the hole of the housing.

photos please 

 

Different rubbers do or don't mind oil.

some seem to swell up, sweat and get slippery.

 

The piece I picked up in the dirt at the wrecking yard has stayed stiff and snaps off with a twist, from getting glued to the stem with hot oil.

 

Stuffing one inside might be more apt to get spat out, but probably okay if it's snug.

 

that little baffle inside the breather tube, up near the end, may act like a nozzle to mystify the spooge that condenses out of those gasses and collects on the walls of the hose/tube.  That little restriction will increase the speed of the air coming out, as it sprays it back in to be burned again.  I'd suggest making sure the metal line is clear.  I just cleaned a bit of brown sour cream out of mine.

   

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Today I removed the stubby fuel pump I'd installed, in part because the way it squishes down on the coolant hose suX.  

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But, the real reason I made the change was because I noticed that the stock air cleaner has a soft rubber button  on the bottom, that was meant to rest on the top of the taller fuel pump.

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Look at the light, shining under the pump's neck.  AHhhhhhh.  Much better.  ( I stole another piece of the plastic fuel line in the trunk )

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Now the filter housing has one more vibration dampening point of contact.  That is such a solid design.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Yesterday, I finally installed a stock base gasket, after adding a flange to the top of the adapter and recreating the bottom lip of the air cleaner.

 

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I now have a place for the seal to land.

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I recreated the box's original bottom flange, to accept the gasket.
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0ops, too much lip

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press fit : )

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test fit in car... 0ops, could be shorter.

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I have been worried about air leaking around the silly tubing-seal solution.  Making the stainless steel flange would not have been necessary, had my filter been intact, but a PO had cut some off; otherwise the original base can simply be sliced off, slit and reused.  The other aluminum adapters I have seen do not need the flange added.  So, most of the work I did yesterday would not be necessary, in a typical installation.

 

Beaner7102 sent me a PM stating that the base gasket and rubber fuel pump nubber are still available : )

I saw in this post you checked RealOEM for parts 10 & 12.

Both are available from Walloth & Nesch:

Part 10 - 13711259495 is $3.40 euro

Part 12 - 13711263041 is $15.10 euro

 

I am hoping they are available stateside, but have not looked yet.

 

I slept better last night, knowing my incoming air will be clean.  Today I will change the oil.

Tom

Edited by '76mintgrun'02

   

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The seal added height, which made the Power Dome cover sit too close to the hood, so it will need to be beat back down. 

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I decided it would be easier to prep/paint the '76 cover I'd set aside after sand blasting.

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after sanding

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acid washing

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priming... sunburst paint job!

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matte black it is

 

135.thumb.JPG.33265dfc8e695879ce461484693b5539.JPGThe shorter lid does not leave room for the rubber elbow, so into the 'spares bin' it will go.  

Too much of an obstruction to air flow anyway.

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They put a restriction at the end of that inlet pipe, to 'spray' the incoming air into the throat.

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I already prefer the new (stOck) look

 

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Edited by '76mintgrun'02
photo shuffle
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