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replacing front bushings, problem with one bushing


flyingjolly

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Hydraulic shop press.

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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Hydraulic shop press.

they only grow wider in the press, but don't slip into the hole =(

I also tried the thing with the thread and washers, but the same: the rubber grows wider and this keeps it from slipping in.

So there really is no special treatment, just brute force and good luck?

Nick, those are the rear trailing arms, i already did those without problem, they slip in quite well with the "mushroom head" only on one side, but thanks for the idea of reinforcing the trailing arms! :)

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well another school of thought with that arm being so cheep

and available that you simply buy the arm which includes nice new tight rubber bushings installed - because the condition of most 40

year old arms is toast from towing hooks, lifting, rusting, bending

And some need replacing just because they are the early weaker design

time is money

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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I tore a bushing a part trying the other day.. I´m going to try this way.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,283064/highlight,/

Ola Gustafson
Sweden
-------------------
1975 Taiga Euro 2002 3685483 - Weber 38/38 DGMS - Pertronix Ignitor - H&R Cup Kit - TEP headers and Simons 2" sport exhaust - 3.91 LSD.

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I tore a bushing a part trying the other day.. I´m going to try this way.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,283064/highlight,/

I tried that, it was a complete pig and didn't work for me. Seriously, if you can't get the threaded bar and socket to work then get a new arm or:

http://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF092-0680KSS

life's too short!

 

avaTour2.jpg.52fb4debc1ca18590681ac95bc6f527f.jpg

 

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sorry - prices have increased - just like your rent and medical

wishbone with bushings 31.12.614.006 sugg. list $96 (need 2)

ball joint kit 31.13.1.103.834 sugg. list $203 (need 2)

rubber bushings 31.12.1.112.902 sugg. list $17 (need 4)

and if you were a member of the BMWCCA - dealer parts

dept.s offer 10, 15, 18, 20% parts discount depending

on their generosity

don't hurt yerself - work safe

02BALLJOINT.jpg

TOAST

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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I encountered the same problem with that bushing not fitting, no matter what was used to insert it including a 10 ton hydraulic press. Oh, and I broke my bench vise trying to use it as a press. Brilliant. The reason they didn't fit was simple: the bushing was the wrong one, even though it was sent in a bag with the correct part number. The picture shows the difference. Again, exact same part #.

My conclusion, after completely restoring the front sub frame, is to take C.D.'s original suggestion and buy new front control arms with the bushings installed. If you are doing everything else anyway, it will be incremental expense, but worth it. However, in my case I had already blasted, powder coated and purchased the new bushings, 1 pair of which were already installed. So, i got the right bushings and the insertion was simple, took 30 seconds using the crude threaded rod , washer, sleeve technique. If you have the correct bushings, it should be that simple.

post-232-13667659245238_thumb.jpg

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You could possibly try soapy water and maybe something like Silglyde too?

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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Yeah, lube is the answer. And a good rubber lube, too, if it's being a real pisser. They WILL tear, otherwise. And I do think that the larger

bushing's intended to be a retrofit for the smaller one. I've seen that

same thing, and they'll both go in.

With lots of lube.

Given the way I drive these days, I use urethane.

It's stiffer.

heh.

heh heh.

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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I encountered the same problem with that bushing not fitting, no matter what was used to insert it including a 10 ton hydraulic press. Oh, and I broke my bench vise trying to use it as a press. Brilliant. The reason they didn't fit was simple: the bushing was the wrong one, even though it was sent in a bag with the correct part number. The picture shows the difference. Again, exact same part #.

My conclusion, after completely restoring the front sub frame, is to take C.D.'s original suggestion and buy new front control arms with the bushings installed. If you are doing everything else anyway, it will be incremental expense, but worth it. However, in my case I had already blasted, powder coated and purchased the new bushings, 1 pair of which were already installed. So, i got the right bushings and the insertion was simple, took 30 seconds using the crude threaded rod , washer, sleeve technique. If you have the correct bushings, it should be that simple.

Got the bushings, and unfortunately they look like the one to the left.. But where did you buy yours? Both from the same place?

Ola Gustafson
Sweden
-------------------
1975 Taiga Euro 2002 3685483 - Weber 38/38 DGMS - Pertronix Ignitor - H&R Cup Kit - TEP headers and Simons 2" sport exhaust - 3.91 LSD.

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