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Tii Engine Flooding


Chi-Tii

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'72 Tii - Blue coil - Pertronix - Everything else stock

This is a first for me for the Tii. My old roundie (Non-tii) had this happen a few times with my bad carb tuning, but this has never happened with the Tii.

She was running fine all week, great in fact, was warm outside as well. Yesterday, we had a sudden temp drop and I tried to get her going with no result, not even that little burp after the first 2 turns.

I kept trying every hour about for a total of 4 times and thought it was for sure my Cold Start Relay. I put a test light to it and it seemed to be working fine, but its hard to do solo so I can't be sure on that %100.

This morning the same deal, I tried twice over an hour and smelled gas. I pulled a plug and almost passed out from the fumes. Plug was Really drenched in gas. Gas in the oil for sure.

So this was my day troubleshooting:

Pulled battery and placed it far away

Pulled plugs and let her air out for a few hours

New plugs - NGK 5's at 45 spacing

New Oil Filter

Oil change - 4.25 Qts of Amsoil 15/40 High Zinc etc etc

Cleaned KFicher and checked if Temp arm was stuck

Checked for fuel leaks - None

Fuel Pressure looks good - Taut all the way up to Cold nozzle with pump on

Re-taped cracks in Intake Runners

Dizzy rotor looks good

Pertronix looks good

After all of that I just tried to start her up and I get a single burp then nothing, just more gas fumes.

The only thing I didnt do was roll her in gear with the plugs out. Im in the city so thats hard to do.

Any ideas? I thought it was lack of gas due to it being cold here, but it seems to be the opposite. Im at a loss atm.

1972 BMW Tii - Malaga gone Verona

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Thats a good idea actually. I have a set of points buried in my tool box somewhere. Ill try that first thing in the morning.

Whats the easiest way for me to check if I am getting spark on the plugs?

1972 BMW Tii - Malaga gone Verona

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If your solo then pull the coil lead and grip in some pliers that you can lie down on the inner wing so that the exposed contact is near (0.25") the inner wing, strut bolts or anything at ground potential. The weight of the pliers will hold the lead steady while the engine turns over

Crank it over and watch through the windscreen. If your coil, Pertronix etc is working you should get big fat sparks. Might want to pull the fuse to the fuel pump first though.

Check all of the low tension wiring at the distributor and coil and check you have voltage at the coil

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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Perhaps the Pertronix has failed? Can you swap for a another one or put the points back in? Points+condensor can be got for about 20-25 at your local auto parts store. Keep as a backup.

B

Agree. Happened to me.

And me.

Also a warning: if you're getting a ton of unburnt gas in the engine and leaking into the exhaust and keep trying to start it, eventually you'll get a spark. And that lonely spark can ignite whatever fuel vapor it can find...like in your center resonator. An exploding center resonator in a garage is really, really loud. I ran out of the garage to tell my frightened looking neighbors that everything was OK, only to discover I couldn't hear anything for several minutes.

Matthew Cervi
'71 Bavaria

'18 M2

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If you test and have spark, it could be the timer box. Had a similar issue with my Tii when the weather turned cold.

There are various tests to check the timer box, you'll need to search around a bit to find the particulars.

I pulled mine out and gently removed the board inside revealing a burnt solder line. With a small piece of wire, I jumped the burnt section and fixed it.

If you don't want mess with fixing it yourself I believe there is a source to get a rebuilt unit.

1972 Tii

1997 Land Rover Defender LE #127

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If you want to test the cold start valve for sticking open, or limit the fuel it squirts in, you can pinch off the fuel line leading to it with vise-grips or a clamp. I keep a small 1" clamp in my roadtrip tool kit for just this reason. I figure eventually the original CSV will fail and I don't want my crankcase oil diluted with fuel 7 hours from home. I've never felt comfortable with the fact that tiis squirt fuel through this valve no matter the temp on every start up.

A snapped K'Fischer belt will cause this problem also. peek inside the upper plastic cover to make sure it's happy.

Here's what my belt looked like after 30 seconds of running (the car sat for 15 years behind a barn. I tried several attempts at starting before realizing the problem. A 6" FLAME shot out the throttlebody from the CSV fuel, but no delivery to the injectors.

post-2748-13667659334194_thumb.jpg

Paul Wegweiser

Wegweiser Classic BMW Services

Nationwide vehicle transport available

NEW WEBSITE! www.zenwrench.com

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.045 seems like it's on the ridiculous side of HUGE for plug gap. I'd go no more than .032-.034 if it were mine. I run .030 with old fashioned points and NGKs currently. There's lots of new plug gap info / opinions over the past few years that I've been absent from the scene, though.

Paul Wegweiser

Wegweiser Classic BMW Services

Nationwide vehicle transport available

NEW WEBSITE! www.zenwrench.com

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Guest Anonymous

This happened to my 74 Tii. I unplugged the cold start and ran without it plugged in that stopped the excessive feed of fuel. My car then started. Then after tjat I cleaned my cold syart connection and fired without issue.

See if this helps

Ira

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Guest Anonymous

This happened to my 74 Tii. I unplugged the cold start and ran without it plugged in that stopped the excessive feed of fuel. My car then started. Then after tjat I cleaned my cold syart connection and fired without issue.

See if this helps

Ira

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Thanks for the help everyone.

Cold Start did flood the engine somehow. Seems to be behaving now though.

I pinched the cold start fuel line, disconneted fuse 11 and burned out some of the fuel over a few hours and then she ran just fine.

Now I just need to retune everything as I played with just about everything I could problem solving.

That Plug gap was a typo btw, was tired at the time. I am running the NGK's at .034.

1972 BMW Tii - Malaga gone Verona

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Probably a partially stuck cold start relay.

My '74tii did this to me, it would sometimes work great, then it would randomly stick and leave the injector spraying fuel. I had a A/F guage and I could see the mixture stuck at around 10 to 1 A/F. Of course the car ran like crap too (not enough air).

Happened in warmer weather to me too. I bought a used relay from someone off the board to solve the issue.

-Justin
--
'76 02 (USA), '05 Toyota Alphard (Tokyo) - http://www.bmw2002.net

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