engine and drivetrain Trans mounts for a 5 speed conversion

[M3M3]

the stock mounts on my 75 were completely whacked position wise. the were not only too low, they were angled incorrectly...from the factory. if i had just used a straight edge off those mounts the new mounts would have been way off. i measured all this compared to where the factory says the 5spd mounts should be. i ended up installing the tranny, lining up the driveshaft and then marking where the mounts should be. think it ended up 10mm above the factory 5spd spot.

[MAD02]

Algon, are these mounts still available from BMW? I will be doing a 5 speed swap soon and have everything but the mounts.

Thanks.

[algon]

Hey Mad02,

Really not sure if they are available or not. They came with a parts car bought years ago. I listed the part # earlier in this post.

algon

[jgerock]

You can get new stainless mounts from Lee (Massive).

They come with the mounting hardware.

Shown here with a new guibo

[MAD02]

Hey Mad02,

Really not sure if they are available or not. They came with a parts car bought years ago. I listed the part # earlier in this post.

algon

Thanks, Algon.

They are still available from BMW and are quite cheap, too.

http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/114/Sedan/Europe/2002-M10/LHD/M/1975/november/browse/manual_transmission/getrag_235_housing_attaching_parts-4/

Thanks, Jgerock. I will look into Lee's mounts as well.

[allbim]

The factory shop manual (blue book) recommends that the new mounting surface for the cross member should be 85mm (3.149") above the bottom of the frame rails that end under the doors.

You should be able to correct any minor missalignement with shims under the rear rubber mount, if the rear of the trnasmission is to low, or between the cross member and the new mounts, if the transmission is to high.

[bourkeco]

After having watched these conversations for years, and watched the various methods and trans mounts used, as well as having used this type of mount in my own conversion (measuring down the proper mm from the frame rails), here is what I am thinking..

Has anyone who has used the method of running rails from the stock mounts to the center bearing mounts had guibo issues?? Will someone ring in with an honest answer? I like this concept, if the end product is actually spot on when it comes to guibo alignment. We all know the ins and outs of this 5 speed conversion, most eating guibos, or having clearance issues with the shifter mechanism... we just don't like to brag about the issues as much as we rave about the 'awesomeness'. The fact of the matter is, for most, its an imperfect 'upgrade', and we live with the drawbacks.. silently.

SO, If the answer to the above question comes back, or were to come back as it being a sound technique (mechanically. - although less than sexy), then it suggests that one could use the method of running a rail between the mounts and using this rail to properly locate the bolt-in tabs that the OP is using.

Considering that the end goal is to have the centerline of the trans output shaft and the center of the carrier bearing in line with one another, essentially making the driveshaft an extension of the output shaft.. this seems to quite possibly be the best boiled down method of installing the BMW or MASSIVE bolt-in mounts.

This all in theory of course... as brain exercise and conversation. But it makes sense.

nice.

noticed the mounts are same height as stock ones. did you measure the location height or put the tranny in and mark where they need to be? that stock height did not work in several of the 5spd conversions i have done. all had to be higher than stock.

Actually I clamped a straight edge to the bottom of the stock mount and placed the new mount on top of that 3.5" further back as was outlined in a 5 speed conversion manual I have been following. This made sense to me as the added OD section of the 5 speed is 3.5" and using a straight edge would keep the slight downward angle that engine and transmission had stock. But in answer to your question no I have not yet test fit. Plan to soon as I can get some time off. If its wrong I'll either move them or use shims as necessary. I have also built a drive shaft alignment tool like ones that have been used by folks here in the past. You've done a few then I take it?

Hey Euro.. I bought a car that had the conversion done before I got it and I went through several Guibos befor I ended up shimming the trans up 1/4" and have not had a problem since.. I agree there needs to be better info added to the conversion instructions..

Sorry I have not been able to get intouch with your brother I have just been buried as of late..

Scott

[M3M3]

best way to do it remains to install the tranny, jack it up to align the driveshaft, put the mount bar and brackets on, and mark where the holes for the brackets should go, and then either drill with a right angle drill or just pull tranny back out and drill away with regular drill. if you just put the brackets on according to some alignment with stock brackets or a 40yo factory number you are just rolling the dice on location......

[Dionk]

On 5/18/2012 at 7:13 PM, mlytle said:

best way to do it remains to install the tranny, jack it up to align the driveshaft, put the mount bar and brackets on, and mark where the holes for the brackets should go, and then either drill with a right angle drill or just pull tranny back out and drill away with regular drill. if you just put the brackets on according to some alignment with stock brackets or a 40yo factory number you are just rolling the dice on location......

I’m going to try it this way. I have the Blunttech ultimate five speed conversion kit and I have and IE Refirb drive shaft on the car (not bolted tight). 

 

My my only issue t resolve before doing this is that the transmission seems to be closer/ angled toward the passenger side of the car.  Do I need to loosen my engine mounts?

[M3M3]

angled to the pass side would be odd.  normally 5spds end up jammed all the way to the drivers side of the tunnel to get the DS to align properly.  but yes, engine mounts should be known to be good, subframe not cracked, and loosen everything up.

[conkitchen]

Before you fully install the trans: I would test fit it in the tunnel and see where you need to enlarge portions to account for the slave cylinder and for the exhaust too. Sometime depending on the clamp location it may "knock" the chassis.  Reason why they say the auto cars are best for a 5 speed transplant.   

 

but what do I know

[Dionk]

1 hour ago, mlytle said:

normally 5spds end up jammed all the way to the drivers side

Sorry I was wrong - it is the drivers side

Edited March 23, 2020 by Dionk

[Dionk]

26 minutes ago, conkitchen said:

account for the slave cylinder

I have a few MM’s of clearance - hard to tell from the picture - as the reverse wires are in the way.

[conkitchen]

BFH it like the pros on the track do.  

 

Also you may have more natural room when you start to align everything up and tighten it down. But generally that is the problem area.  In addition, just my thoughts, I would not install the flex disc bolts such that the long bolt is trapped behind the output flange of the trans. I may have seen this assembly in a diagram from a manual or somewhere but it makes servicing more difficult and should they become loose that bolt will destroy the rear case of the trans. 

 

but again, what do I know

 

Edited March 23, 2020 by conkitchen

[Dionk]

58 minutes ago, conkitchen said:

will destroy the rear case of the trans. 

Had already happened once -huge chunk is missing from my input shaft. It was causing a leak- I cleaned it up and did my beat to mend the shaft- hopefully it won’t leak.  
 

I placed the bolts in accordance with the little arrows.  Hmmm