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Calling all who have replaced rear towers in the past


323IJOE

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pretty straight forward question, what is the best way to measur/cutout and replace the bad portions of the towers on our cars. I have seen some pictures of it done yet no real documentaion on the best way to measure and cut accurately

thanks

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For any replacement sheet metal work, I've found this does a pretty good job:

1) Cut out the area to be replaced, making sure that the shape/amount you remove is slightly SMALLER than the patch panel you have to use.

2) Hold your oversized patch panel up to the cutout and trace out the new size onto your patch panel.

3) Trim the patch panel to the correct size.

It would also probably be a good idea to take some measurements of distance between the towers, as well as to a couple other locations in the trunk area so you can ensure they are welded back in the correct position.

HTH

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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Hi,

i have done several rear shock towers(RST)

in the past 25 years. the best way to do

this takes the longest and gives the best

results. i remove the entire RST by drilling

out all the spotwelds along the trunk floor,

floorpan under the rear seat and both

inner and outer ribs of the inner RST to

the outer part. then i clean the welding areas

and install the replacement. i have found that

patching the RST just gives the rust a new

place to start it's attack in about two years.

one RST takes 25 - 30 hours for removal

and welding. along the way you should

remove the fuel tank,seats, carpet. even

better is to take out the glass so that the weld

splatter dosen't ruin the glass. so in the end if

you are doing one side you should be in

for both sides at one time. it is not easy

but it is very satisfying to go thru the whole

process. i don't know i just like metal work?

good luck

stone

PS if you want pictures i can scan some

old ones and post them.

stone racing co

phila pa 19123

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... and in the 'cut to taste' camp, I found that the perch was the rust

trap, so I cut below that, fitted my sections of other old (not rusty) car

in, and made a nice seam out of it.

The perch is the evil part- if the car's solid below that spot, then it's

kind of up to you how to do it. I found this most expedient on a

'daily driver' car.

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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thanks guys, and Ya i already have replacement towers, though not complete they are perfect for what I need, and like mentioned because of the perch being the problem in these i was thinking of cutting a panel out and por15 the inside then weld the panel back in so i can just forget about it and not have to worry about rust coming back again.

and next question which i meant to ask, do you guys know what gauge steel was used for the stock towers, just so i can get the right settings on my welder.

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I'd say it's either 16 or 18 gauge, those settings should be close enough.

Also, one thing to keep in mind with POR15 is that it isn't meant to be welded on. So when you coat the inside of the perch, the places you weld with have to POR15 burnt off and be unprotected. I would actually recommend using a weld-thru primer, then after welding covering the edges with some seam sealer. This should help to keep moisture from getting in there at all, and when it does it should be protected.

Tinker Engineering - 2014

 

Mica - 2000 BMW 323i - The one that started it all

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The Definition of Project Creep

Heidi - 1988 BMW M5 - The piece of BMW history

Silvia - 2013 Subaru WRX - Stock, for now

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yup I already have the weldthru primer, and i also bought eastwoods internal frame coating that i was going to spray in there as well after everything is welded back on just as an extra precaution, I really dont want to have to redo them lol it may be a little overkill but id rather that than the other alternative

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I don't really have anything to add beyond "whatever Chris (Stone Racing) says." He's a very knowledgeable guy when it comes to these cars, and a helluva nice guy. He has taken the time to help me with mine quite a bit (he was the one who got it running, actually). In any case, good luck to you.

MattL

1976 BMW 2002 Pastellblau

Philadelphia 'Burbs

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