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calling those with tiis and AFM gauges (Bill, Justin, JimG)


thehackmechanic

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I dont have injection on my non tii (but if i had a one), what would be the lambda/stoichiometric ranges?It seems to me that some of the ranges mentioned above are really wide.I guess its load cycle and a whole lot more????

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Nice explanation and drawings there batman.

Now riddle me this Batman, how does the Kugelfischer detect RPMs (engine speed) to regulate or change fuel (backward and forward moment of the cone) mixture that you discuss?

see cd's pictures a few posts above for how it knows speed..

2xM3

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Nice explanation and drawings there batman.

Now riddle me this Batman, how does the Kugelfischer detect RPMs (engine speed) to regulate or change fuel (backward and forward moment of the cone) mixture that you discuss?

Thank you for the compliment on my draftsman skills. MS Paint seems like the way of the future.

The backward and forward motion of the cone is mechanical, and it's driven by the throttle linkage. At idle, the cone is forward, with the wider section of the cone pressing up on the pin in the fuel regulating lever. As you press the accelerator, the linkage pulls back on the throttle arm of the Kfish (rotating it counter-clockwise if you're looking at the throttle arm from the passenger's side.) The axle of the throttle arm has an activator that moves the cone backward as the throttle arm rotates toward WOT.

As for cone rotation, that's still a bit of a mystery to me, but it seems relatively straight forward. See the image below (stolen from the Bay Area 02 site) for reference.

Rear%2520cover%2520removed%2520large.jpg

The wound coil spring is fixed to the body of the Kfish, and is also fixed to what appears to be a clutch. There are a few sets of reduction gears between the input shaft on the Kfish and the shaft on which the cone rotates. It looks like the cone is rotated due to the rotation of a centrifugal clutch, and the clutch is counter-balanced by the coiled spring. As rpms increase, the clutch rotates against the coil spring. At some point, increasing rpms has no impact on cone rotation as the clutch friction is overcome by the spring tension.

williamggruff

'76 2002 "Verona" / '12 Fiat 500 Sport "Latte" / '21 Toyota 4Runner TRD Off Road Prem “The Truck”

 

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William, this is fascinating. I certainly am not conversant in that level of detail of the inner workings of the pump and the relative effect of the throttle lever versus the enrichment lever. But it validates what I've been seeing. You say that by making "crazy adjustments" to the enrichment lever you can practically make it flood at mid-rpm. This resonates with me because I've had to make BIG changes in the verboten screw (2.5 total turns) to richen the thing up anywhere close to where it needs to be at WOT. Your detailed explanation also validates why the warmup regulator is out of the picture when the hat is clear of the enrichment lever and the verboten screw is against the stop.

As I've said, I'm going to need to take the car "down" next week for some repairs. When I do, I'll pull out the injectors to see if they're gummed, and pull out and test the warm-up regulator to see if there's something I'm not seeing about it leaking auxiliary air.

Thanks.

The new book The Best Of The Hack Mechanic available at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998950742, inscribed copies of all books available at www.robsiegel.com

1972 tii (Louie), 1973 2002 (Hampton), 1975 ti tribute (Bertha), 1972 Bavaria, 1973 3.0CSi, 1979 Euro 635CSi, 1999 Z3, 1999 M Coupe, 2003 530i sport, 1974 Lotus Europa Twin Cam Special (I know, I know...)

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The wound coil spring is fixed to the body of the Kfish, and is also fixed to what appears to be a clutch. There are a few sets of reduction gears between the input shaft on the Kfish and the shaft on which the cone rotates. It looks like the cone is rotated due to the rotation of a centrifugal clutch, and the clutch is counter-balanced by the coiled spring. As rpms increase, the clutch rotates against the coil spring. At some point, increasing rpms has no impact on cone rotation as the clutch friction is overcome by the spring tension.

I still do not recall where I found this graphic on the internet. There were no index numbers with it for parts identification.

explodedviewkfpump.jpg

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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S14 targets...

I dont have injection on my non tii (but if i had a one), what would be the lambda/stoichiometric ranges?It seems to me that some of the ranges mentioned above are really wide.I guess its load cycle and a whole lot more????

post-216-1366766509928_thumb.jpg

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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Played with this a bit more. Now have the AFM reading about 13.5 at WOT for a variety of conditions.

But now that I have it dialed in better at WOT, I can watch it at partial throttle conditions, and what I'm seeing is that, at steady throttle (say, 65 on the highway), it's reading between 13 and 14, but the moment I crack the throttle, even a little, like to keep up with traffic, it still swings lean, like 15 to 16, whereas if I punch it (WOT), it goes to about 13.5. Then it does a similar thing on backing off the throttle -- it swings rich, like 10.5 to 11, until you lift all the way off the throttle, where it swings very lean, like 16, which has been explained as the cylinders continuing to suck in air.

This is unchanged whether I have the small vacuum hose on the throttle body hooked up to the breather hose from the valve cover, or whether I have the small vacuum hose plugged.

In a prior post, Jimk in Denver wrote:

"With the use of an A/F gauge, a vacuum leak will appear under idle or low load conditons. If the A/F is ok on WOT and also low loads, the problem is not fuel. If ok on WOT but not ok under low load, continue looking for leaks. If not ok on WOT but ok under light load, fuel adjustments are needed. An A/F gauge will also show lean condition if there is misfiring due to electrical causes (i.e., O2 in the exhaust)."

Am I correct in assuming that, even though I have it dialed in better at WOT, this still smells like a vacuum leak?

The new book The Best Of The Hack Mechanic available at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998950742, inscribed copies of all books available at www.robsiegel.com

1972 tii (Louie), 1973 2002 (Hampton), 1975 ti tribute (Bertha), 1972 Bavaria, 1973 3.0CSi, 1979 Euro 635CSi, 1999 Z3, 1999 M Coupe, 2003 530i sport, 1974 Lotus Europa Twin Cam Special (I know, I know...)

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I think you ought to be seeing about 12.5 at WOT. That may mean you are lean across the board and richening WOT may yield you something closer to 14.5 at cruising.

Or not ;-)

Cheers,

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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the Hack wrote "at steady throttle (say, 65 on the highway), it's reading between 13 and 14, but the moment I crack the throttle, even a little, like to keep up with traffic, it still swings lean, like 15 to 16,"

If after cracking the throttle as per above, does the A/F return to "between 13 and 14" if the throttle is held at the "cracked position"?

If the A/F returns, then it is the lack of "throttle pump" action of the design and may be the norm.

If not then it seems there is a linkage/coordination problem between the injection pump and throttle plate because the throttle plate obviously opened some for more air but the fuel rate did not increase to maintain a constant A/F.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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<

Yes it does.

The new book The Best Of The Hack Mechanic available at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998950742, inscribed copies of all books available at www.robsiegel.com

1972 tii (Louie), 1973 2002 (Hampton), 1975 ti tribute (Bertha), 1972 Bavaria, 1973 3.0CSi, 1979 Euro 635CSi, 1999 Z3, 1999 M Coupe, 2003 530i sport, 1974 Lotus Europa Twin Cam Special (I know, I know...)

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I took the yellow car out and tried to keep one bad eye on the road and one bad eye on the AFR gauge.

At start up and at idle during warm-up, the meter read about 13.2 after a run, the idle reading dropped to about 13.0

I ran the car, on the throttle, cruising and off the throttle. While on the throttle and cruising, the gauge read, with some small variation, around 13.2 to 13.8. Off throttle and it would pop between 14s and low 15s

I had the car around 140 kph (87 - 90 mph) and it still was averaging around 13.2 while getting to that speed and cruising briefly at that speed.

And to be expected, there were the occasional blips of higher and lower reading but just blips

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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