broken exhaust stud help.

[Slightly Larger Roundies]

Please tell me I don't have to pull the head to fix this broken exhaust stud. What would be the ballpark cost to fix such a thing?

[c.d.iesel]

no you don't have to remove the head but you do

have to remove the header to gain a grip of the stud-

and replace all others for insurance - and to fix the

serious oil leak that you have there from leaking

studs. Yes - exhaust manifold studs leak oil.

The stud holes are drilled all the way through

the head where oil return is.

cost ?

depends on your location and shop rec. by members here.

[BillWilliams]

If you try to get it loose yourself, use a good stud remover. Find a tool truck and get a set from them or visit you local mechanic.

I have good luck with these, there are probably others that work too.

[ndog]

no you don't have to remove the head but you do

have to remove the header to gain a grip of the stud-

and replace all others for insurance - and to fix the

serious oil leak that you have there from leaking

studs. Yes - exhaust manifold studs leak oil.

The stud holes are drilled all the way through

the head where oil return is.

wow I thought that was a crinkle paintjob on the block...you could also try two nuts(post header removal)

if you have enough thread left..good luck atleast its lubed not rusted.

cost ?

depends on your location and shop rec. by members here.

[Guest Anonymous]

If there isn't enough bolt sticking out to grab and turn, FWIW, I have found screw extractors to be worthless - the kind where you drill a hole in the bolt and screw in the left-handed threaded extractor - they either don't turn or they break off, creating an even bigger problem. I have had better luck with a left-hand threaded drill, where the bit itself turns counter clock-wise as it goes in.

[KFunk]

If there isn't enough bolt sticking out to grab and turn, FWIW, I have found screw extractors to be worthless - the kind where you drill a hole in the bolt and screw in the left-handed threaded extractor - they either don't turn or they break off, creating an even bigger problem. I have had better luck with a left-hand threaded drill, where the bit itself turns counter clock-wise as it goes in.

bill: The spiral shaped ones are crap, and been my experience as well. They dig in too much, combined with being too thin, and they break.

However, straight flute extractors work great: http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21872-Straight-Extractor/dp/B000CEMSHM

Good and solid, and dig in great. I recently removed a broken head bolt with one, after drilling it out with a left-handed cobalt drill bit.

For that exhaust header stud though, you shouldn't have to go that hardcore. A stud extractor should work, or cheaper yet, I've removed them with a pair of vise-grips. Of course you will have to take header all the way off to get a good grip on it. Filing the edges of the stud a little to square it off helps too (so the vise-grips can grab ahold better). Then just tighten them has hard as you possibly can on it, and it might come right out.

[BillWilliams]

I think, from what I can see in the photo, with the header off, the stud extractor or vise grip can get to it.

And I also like the left handed drill bits, but I find it helpful to drill a pretty good starter hole with a regular twist but and remember to run the drill in reverse with left handed bits.

[Slightly Larger Roundies]

Thanks for the fast replies. I will pull the header and do the job properly.

[Hans]

I would pulll the headers, and then the valve cover to get some penetrating oil on the inside end of the stud. Then a good pair of vice grips, with round mouth (vs flat straight jaws). You only get one chance. get a good grip and gently turn

[Hans]

On second thought, i don't think the lower row of studs goes into the rocker arm area. So penetrating oil on the outside and offer prayers to appropriate deities.

[KFunk]

If worse comes to worse and it twists off flush with the head..... Personally, I wouldn't even bother trying to drill it out while on the car, and I wouldn't bother with pulling the head. Just coat the exhaust gasket with some ultra copper silicone, and tighten the remaining nuts well, and leave it until you do have to pull the head someday. Don't ask me how I know this works on an 02.

I've still got a broken exhaust stud on my Yamaha that's waiting on rebuild time as well, hah.

[71bmr02]

I'll bet you can get it out if you go slow. as stated before remove the header and file flats one directly across from another on the stud. use vise grips with parallel (flat) jaws and start initially by trying to tighten the stud, hopefully it will actually go in a thread or two. if so you may have it made at this point. you will likely do better if you go slowly by turning the stud back and forth (losen and tighten) until all the carbonized gunk is broken lose. ive done this before and the slow process and loosen tighten approach generally works.

good luck

Gale H[/code]

[allbim]

Before you attempt to remove the broken stud, bring the engine up to operating temp, then wait long enough for the exhaust manifold to cool so you don't burn yourself.

That will make it much easier to get the stud out. Aluminum expands more than steel when it gets hot, meaning that the hole gets bigger than the stud as the engine warms up.

It really makes difference. You may want to remove most of the manifold nuts before you warm up the engine.

[ndog]

^all these suggestions on removal are great.I think that is a stahl header,If so the flange thickness is @ 7.76mm.It looks like you have about 13.00 mm of stud left so before I tried to center punch and drill for extractor use ,I would run a tap down the stud and try nuts .

A single tap and 2 steel nuts might be the cheapEST fix.I dont have a 90degree drill at home but they can cost $$$$.If that fails go for the vice grips method.good luck again,,,, if it snaps off flush you will have to pull the head ithinks.

[Pamola]

Try the double nut method first. Buy tools next. You probably already have the hardware laying around.