engine and drivetrain Carburetor problem after fixing linkage

[dudem3]

The swivel joint right where the linkage screws into the carb was popping out on our car so we took the linkage off and fixed the problem and put it back on. In the process we have somehow inadvertently created a problem with the carb and/or the linkage. When you first push the throttle, either with the pedal or by hand in the engine bay, the engine actually bogs down and then throttles up after a second. When you're driving and you go to engage the clutch and start, you have to hammer the throttle or it jerks then catches and goes. Also, if you let off the throttle, when it returns to that just slightly engaged position it jerks as the engine bogs down. It idles fine, it's just that slightly engaged throttle position that's the problem. It's still drivable but really annoying. Does anyone have any ideas what we could have messed up on the carb?

[Napes]

What carb are we talking about? A Weber 32/36, a 38/38, or an older Solex.

And, it would help alot if you could post a pic of the connection between the throtle rod and the carb.

I think we need a little more info in order to help you.

Bob Napier

[dudem3]

Bob, thanks, I'll get some pics tomorrow morning and post them.

[c.d.iesel]

your accel pump is not spritzing any gas which is needed

when the throttle is cracked open

know how the accelerator pump circuit works and your fixed

and

or

the mechanical advance in the distributor is jammed

it also needs to move frely with any rpm increase

you need a timing light with this car or just throw

the keys into the neighbors pool.

[dudem3]

It is spritzing gas when first opening the throttle, I saw this yesterday when I was checking it out. It bogs down right after or right about the time of the spritz. The plugs, dist. cap, rotor, points were all changed about 4 months ago and the timing was set at that time.

This was not occuring before we took off the linkage and fixed it. The problem with the linkage was with the ball and socket joint. It kept popping out. We took it apart and tightened the circlip on the inside of the socket part of the joint to make it more difficult for the ball to pop out. Pics are shown below.

[Napes]

I'm not sure what's causing your current problem, but a few things come to mind upon viewing your pics:

1. The washer immediately forward of the ball nut needs to be replaced with one with a good tab (or ear) so it can be bent down tight against the ball nut in order to keep it from becoming loose on the carb linkage. (Might try Pierce Manifolds).

2. The sleeve you have over the side rod is not the best set-up. If you can get to a hobby shop or model railroad shop you can get a short length of metal tubing to slide over the rod. Measure the rod O.D. and get a thinwall piece. then just lightly crimp it when it's in place.

3. If your pictures were taken when the car was cold then you need to adjust the choke plates so they are completely closed. Then, as the engine warms, make sure the plates open completely.

4. I would also recommend removing the idle jet (just forward of the water choke mechanism) and make sure it's not plugged, and blow out, with compressed air, thru that idle jet channel into the carb throat.

I don't know that any of these things are the source of your current problem, but I do know they will help the perfromance of your carb overall.

Bob Napier

I just noticed one other thing in your pics that I missed the first time. Where your linkage rod meets the firewall there should be a spring around the rod between the firewall and the lever arm connecting to the vertical rod coming up from below. That keeps forward pressure on the rod so it does not seperate at the ball joint. I found my last one at a hardware store.

[Hans]

is the return spring snagging on something?

[c.d.iesel]

EXCELLENT PHOTOS!

minor important point: your missing

the locking ring clip on the BALL

socket end of the rod attaching to the BALL

linkage on the carb. Keeps the rod from popping

off when driving over YumPs!

me thinks your no go, jutter-go problem

is you have a sticking gas pedal - missing

the plastic rod bushing at the back of the pedal

which makes the pedal G L I D E S M O O T H LY

as you depress the pedal ?

and or other restriction with smooth gas pedal-to-rest of

the linkage & arms & pivots up to the firewall pivot-to-the

carb- someplace binding sticking

[dudem3]

Thanks for all the info about things to check for. I haven't had a chance to get back to it yet, was planning to do it today, but we have bad storms coming thru so it will have to wait until tomorrow.

[dudem3]

Finally had some time to check it out. Checked the points and they needed to be adjusted, so did that and then set the timing and it was running better but it didn't fix the problem. I then started trying out all the screw adjustments on the carb and when I got to the one shown in the pic below, 3/4 of a turn clockwise and that seems to have fixed. I honestly don't know that much about carbs, so I'm not sure which adjustment screw this is. Tried to find a diagram that explained all the adjustment screws but couldn't so if anyone can tell me what I adjusted, I'd appreciate it. Thanks

[Guest_anonymous]

That is an idle jet holder. It should be screwed all the way in snug. Doesn't have to be gorilla tight, but snug,. Should be an o-ring as a seal between the brass holder and the carb body.

In case you need one of these to help:

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/322.htm

[Guest_anonymous]

Also, not sure about a circlip inside the socket of the linkage rod. The linkage rods I've had have a pin hole through the socket near the open end. A pin clip passes through the holes to secure the ball from pulling out, and clips to the outside and around the socket.

[jgerock]

is the return spring snagging on something?

There was an older Roundel that showed the correct position of the return spring (at the firewall). If incorrectly installed, it would hang up on the heater hose. Not sure if that is the problem...

[Napes]

In the photos the linkage return spring is not connected to the lever arm (that connects to the vertical rod coming up from below). And, as Jim pointed out above, the spring hook on the end should be facing toward the front of the car when it's inserted into the lever arm in order to prevent it from getting hung-up on the heater core exit hose.

Bob Napier