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Exhaust manifold and clearance (none!)


BDB

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Hey guys,

Finally got around to installing the replacement (74 or 75?) exhaust manifold with header/downpipe on my CA spec 76 (I know, I know shaaadup already about smog crap this and that...I'm dealing w/ the problem at hand!).

So I installed the replacement manifold + header/downpipe and noticed that the angle of the replacement exhaust header downpipe end that connects with the pipe that runs to the muffler touches the underbody. The angle is different. So the thing that concerns me is that there is zero clearance between the top of the exhaust pipe and the underbody. There's some heat shield material between the underbody and the top of the pipe, but I imagine that there should be 1/2" of clearance around the exhaust pipe.

This I imagine is not a safe situation right fellas? If so, then I'll have to unbolt everything (oh jesus, why me???), cut off the flange off the exhaust manifold, weld on the 76 flange, and then use the 76 header/downpipe which will run more through the center of the vehicle and have the needed clearance.

feedback/comments appreciated.

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should be at least a 'pinky finger' feeler gauge gap

but is is close

look to your motor mounts for the cause

and

the down pipe should align with the support

bracket at the tail of the gearbox - if not . . . . .

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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CD,

Yah it is not even a pinky. As soon as i started to tighten up the nuts and bolts on both ends, the alignment/angle was moving towards the passenger door vs the center. It is so far off that where it merges to one pipe, the trans bracket support (with the u-bolt) does not even come close to being able to u-bolt down the pipe!

Man, just the thought of unbolting the exhaust manifold again makes me cringe. thanks CD

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Hans is correct. The downpipes for the automatics are different from the ones on manual tranny cars. You don't say which one your car is (always helpful to provide that info as well as the year when asking a question) so it's possible you do not have the correct downpipe for your car.

Bob Napier

'75 2002A (my daily driver for the past 32 yrs.)

'76 2002A (wife's daily driver for the past 15 yrs.)

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Hey if you want to stop by and look at the way it is installed on my 75 it is almost back on the road, and the exhaust system is in, give me a call you have my cell, you purchased and pick up door brakes from me before.

Harry

1975 BMW 2002 Taiga

2000 BMW M Roadster evergreen

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guys,

You guys were right, I was using an auto downpipe. I unbolted the one from my previous manifold and put it on. the downpipe is definitely shaped differently and runs farther towards the center and then goes straight back to the muffler.

Now I have another problem: she doesn't start. I'l post a vid soon, but here's what's happening.

- clutch depressed, turn the key, and it doesn't turn over. it makes that sound like as if the engine is running and then you turn the key again

- after trying to turn the engine over the first time, the second time it turns over but then the engine shakes to all hell and cuts off.

- there is some residual fuel spillage, not much but enough to notice.

- triple checked to make sure that all the vac hoses I unplugged were correctly plugged in. I even removed my vac gauge hose just in case.

Note: my 02 did run well prior to removing the busted exhaust manifold.

Possible causes?

- Is it possible that the exhaust manifold is not properly tightened down, causing this rough stumbling? same too with the downpipe tightening?

- Could I have done some damage somewhere by improperly installing the exhaust studs? Man that would not be good. The replacement studs I had did not have the middle shoulder that keeps the stud from stopping.

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