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1976 2002 Won't Shift Into Gear


aaziz99

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So i just started by 2002 after about a year sitting idle.  My car does not seem to shift into gear when the car is on.  When I put it in reverse it makes a horrible grinding sound.  The car is able to shift with the car off but not with the car on.  Any suggestions?

1976 bmw 2002

1995 dinan m3

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Might also be the hydraulics have leaked out.  If you can get help, have someone press the clutch

while you watch the slave underneath.  If it moves, your clutch is stuck.  If it doesn't, the hydraulics need work.

 

Unsticking is fun- you get to start the car in gear, holding the pedal in, and try to get it

to break free.  It often does...  but be careful!  Make sure your brakes are good!

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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  • 1 year later...

I'd like to resurrect this thread, as I have a similar problem. Just completed a auto to 5 speed conversion on my '75. New clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, master & slave cylinders (lines bled), resurfaced flywheel to spec. Getrag 245 was purchased from a vendor at the Bay area '02 show last month, & is supposed to be good, (replaced all seals). Gear box shifts fine when car is not running, but when started in neutral, can't shift into reverse, horrible grinding. Can engage gears 1 to 5 while car is running. If I put the car in reverse when turned off, start the car in reverse, can't engage gears 1 to 5. I did this test with the rear of the car elevated on jack stands...Would this be an issue with the clutch, or something else?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

David

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Check your hydraulics (harder to determine if the clutch is working on a 5 speed). Clutch is not disengaging and from the sound of things it won't be because the plate has rusted to the flywheel. Not that familiar with the 5 speed - any chance the throwout lever inside can be displaced from its pivot?

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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Hans, I used the Sachs SN3759 or 21 51 7 521 471. That is what I was sent from the Ireland 215mm Clutch Kit which is correct for my flywheel.

The info I have is:

 320i bearing, for 215mm clutch: 21 51 1 225 168, but the one you got supercedes the 168, so it should be ok.  The 228mm uses a different one from a 323.

 

Edited by jimk

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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In both cases, another thing to look at is the rubber hose. They swell shut on the inside over time. So check to see if the push rod is moving when the peddle is pushed.

On the 5 speed, and I'm working from memory here, I think the bearing needs to be 30mm thick. But maybe just with 228mm. So the question for IE is: does that one work with 215mm and 5 speed. There is a procedure for checking push rod movement on the 5 speed in the shop manual, or in previous posts. I recall one from Hack Mechanic went on for 8 or 9 pages and covered every possible clutch problem known to man. If your bearing is too thin, the clutch won't release. Ask me how I know. But it could be something else.

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I mentioned my problem to a co-worker who is our fleet mechanic for USPS, & he thought it could be the slave push rod is not fully engaging the clutch fork, or the clutch fork is worn or worse case a bad reverse gear syncro… Yikes, hopefully not the latter.  

I think tomorrow I'll actually try to take it out on my street and do some more testing, staying very close to my house of course!

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