history and reference Help...what Did I Just Buy?

[M3M3]

on #2.....e30 in-tank fuel pump is way too much fuel pressure for carbs.......even with a regulator.

 

 

if is is the low pressure e30 pump, the output hose is large...where does it change down to 8x13 hose to go into the regulator?

 

the regulator is a non-return style, but there is a return hose attached to the fuel pump in trunk.

 

basically i would be suspect of the entire fuel system and would go through it front to back before using the car.

Edited August 25, 2013 by mlytle

[DonP]

Oops the VIN is 2588876.

 

That is the closest VIN to my car (2588764) that I have seen. Only 112 apart, build date for mine was Feb 19, 1973

[Kidasters]

Jim and Marshall crack me up.  The amount of detail that they picked up in a few pics is crazy.....

 

Looking at the trunk - looks like the car was originally Agave, and they aimed for Taiga is my guess.  

 

Yeah - besides the electric and fuel delivery stuff, I'd do like Mike says and get those wheels off.  I'm not a fan of those.

 

Only other thing I'd mention - the "Cross-hair" tach is not original for a 73.  It's from a later car (74-76).

[TobyB]

To answer your original question, what you have right there is a BMW.

 !972 or 1973, from the looks of it.  The smaller of the offerings at the time.

 

They called it a 2002 a long time ago,

but if you try to order parts for a BMW 2002 now, they'll ask you what model it is.

Repeatedly.

Like the geniussess they are.

 

And you have a bit of work.  A few headaches.  And lots of advice!

 

Personally, I LIKE the wheels, but they do make it look like a race car.  And steer like one, too.

 

In the NE, that would be really difficult to find in that condition- I think you did well.

 

Welcome!

 

(and Marshall's right- if that's a high pressure in- tank pump, DUCK!  'Cause it's good for over 60psi, stalled like that)

 

t

[02Les]

Looking at the trunk - looks like the car was originally Agave, and they aimed for Taiga is my guess.  

 

 

When I look at the trunk (on my computor), it appears dark blue under the black, so it could have been Baikal or Atlantik originally which would match the interior colour.

Now it appears to be Mintgrün which I do not think was available in '73.

 

The licence plate frame suggest the car may have been in Glendale, CA, at one time.

[FB73tii]

Nice find! Unusual flares and kind of "dirt-track" style steel wheel with the green paint--looks cool. As to observations and suggestions:

 

13) Missing dust caps for the front strut bearings.

 

Not only are the dust caps missing, the front strut bearings are cracked (i,e, toast) and should be replaced. Can't believe Jim or Marshall didn't catch that

 

With the dual Weber 45 DCOE 9's and exhaust headers I will be really interested to see what you find inside the engine as far as the cam and compression ratio when you eventually take it apart. Once you get the car sorted add a wide-band AFR and take to it the dyno to see what you've got as far as fuel curve and HP/TQ.

 

--Fred  '69 45DCOE15 & '74tii

[Guest Sutrusu]

Thanks for all the comments. Next question is what should I do with the car? Try and get the existing engine running or go for a swap straight away? My budget is $5k any ideas would be welcome....I intend to use the car on weekends and for the occasional track day.

[tjones02]

Start with the existing engine of course. It is likely pretty strong if not too beat up. Do you have any details or history on it? I've seen pictures of that car somewhere before. A Google search of Mintgrun BMW 2002 should help.

http://www.02forum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=246&start=20

[FB73tii]

As with any used car of unknown origin, the first thing you want to do is go through the entire car and find out what you have and what needs to be addressed. I strongly suggest a complete nut and bolt check to make sure everything is tight and nothing critical missing. On a 2002 I purchased recently the drive shaft bolts at the diff were barely finger tight, and the same with the guibo bolts. Like someone replaced the drive shaft but forgot to torque the bolts--that could have been very bad!

 

As far as investment, a good adage is "make it stop, make it turn, then make it go". E.g., safety first, handling next, and more power last. On safety, check that the the seat belts are good, seat mounts solid, brakes system good, tires good. Buy the best tires you can afford, they are insurance you use every day, unlike the type you pay for and hope you never use. The stock seat mounting bolts are tiny. Even if you weren't going to the track I'd suggest larger bolts.

 

Next go through and check all the bushings for ones that need to be replaced or upgraded. Given the state of your front strut bushing, which is obvious, it is likely that other bushings (in particular the rear subframe mount bushings) are original and in need of replacement. Make sure the shocks are good, and figure out what you have as far as springs, shocks and sway bars before putting money into upgrades. If the car handles fine as is, great!

 

Unless you know it is broken, as Tom said get the existing engine running and see what you have. Given the parts already on the engine it may be a good base for a rebuild/freshen even if not running, no reason to go swapping it out first thing. If you get it running do compression and leakdown tests and other diagnosis to find out what shape it is in (including aforementioned AFR reading to see if carbs jetted correctly). If it was me and I had no info on the engine I'd pull the oil pan to check for any signs of engine failure (debris in pan) and pull a rod cap or two to check bearing condition before trying to start it. If you have trouble getting the pan off you may find the pan has been baffled. I would not be surprised to find that given how the car is set up. If you run into this we'll let you know how to deal with it.

 

Finally, depending on your track experience, honing your driving skills is much more important than adding more power. Better to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow! If it turns out the car is in great shape and needs nothing, then put your $5000 into track tires and HPDE fees.

 

Best of luck and keep us informed of your progress.

--Fred '69 & '74tii

Edited August 25, 2013 by FB73tii

[autobon7]

I like the wheels.........lots of good advice here, spend time cleaning, nut/bolt checking, learning, see what ya got. Replace plugs/wires, hoses, paying close attn to cooling system. At least pull radiator and get it flushed and tested. Maybe new thermostat. Compression check and all fluids replaced. Complete baseline is good peace of mind.

[tjones02]

Marvel oil to soak in the spark plug holes for a week, valve adjust, look for marks on the cam while in there, take a few good Macro pics while in there, especially of cam lobes, marks and other stuff like rocker arms. Make sure battery and power connections are safe. Change the oil, drain the coolant (lower radiator hose off of the radiator and there's a coolant drain plug in the block below #4 cylinder, yes it can be felt and removed by reaching around the header, a PITA for sure, but it can be done. Short 19mm socket on a long handle flex head ratchet). Connect up a test battery and get ready to crank it over without plugs. Then compression test, and or a leak down test. Don't be afraid to buy new tools and learn how to use them to do this project, that's part of the fun...

[TobyB]

 

cam lobes

Yeah, I was thinking, pull the cam cover and have a look- see.

 

If the cam surface is rusty (the cover shows a lot of corrosion) you CAN polish it up... at least, enough to

re- seat.

 

I didn't do that once, and the cam wiped itself when I started it...

 

t

[Honolulu]

I would add that the bits and pieces you will find in the glove box, trunk, and under the back seat may give you hints about what previous owners have done.

 

If you've not had a BMW before, there are a lot of "little things" that should at least be looked at so that the car is safe (won't burst into flames on the road) and reliable (won't leave you stuck in the middle of the night in lower East Nowhere).  A FAQ member with mechanical competence is probably the best.

 

You could also look into the BMW Car Club of America, and what their local chapter is like, and if there is a '02 fanatic there.  I was the one for our local chapter, a while back, but now it seems that later bimmers arrive at my garage.  Sold my fifteenth 2002 a couple months ago.

[Kpeters]

There's a ton of things that are not correct usually when you purchase a car so old but if you are not looking to have an absolutely correct 2002 and just want to have fun with a great car I think you are already there!

 

The car looks real good just do a tune up change the wires, etc make sure fuel pressure is ok and drive it. 

 

I also spy a nice exhaust header! good.