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Weber Dcoe With Manual Choke?


mickem02

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Hi,

 

do anyone of you with dual Weber Dcoes use their manual choke? I have not connected mine and only push the gaspedal a few times before crank it up. But before the engine gets warm I the carbs popping through the trumpets. I thought perhaps the popping disappear if I use the manual choke...?

 

What do you guys think?

 

regards Micke

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The usual reason that no choke cable is connected, is because on an 02 the only way you can pull the choke mechanism on most DCOEs is if you pull it toward the front of the car.  So, if you wanted to connect it, you'd need a long cable that goes forward to the front of the car, then turns a 180 to come backward to pull both chokes.

I have thought about attempting it, just to see if it can actually work, but have not done it yet. 

Edited by KFunk

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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The usual reason that no choke cable is connected, is because on an 02 the only way you can pull the choke mechanism on most DCOEs is if you pull it toward the front of the car.  So, if you wanted to connect it, you'd need a long cable that goes forward to the front of the car, then turns a 180 to come backward to pull both chokes.

I have thought about attempting it, just to see if it can actually work, but have not done it yet. 

the choke can be set up for front or rear pull.  IIRC from when i had three sets of them, two sets were front pull, one was rear pull.  front pull worked fine. cable was not that long.

 

usual reason for not having them connected is that they just aren't needed.

2xM3

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For what it is worth, I have the cold start devices hooked up on my dual Mikuni 44PHH.  Go out in the morning pull out the choke/cold start device cable, never touching the foot feed, car starts right off at a fast idle 1300 +/-rpm.  Let ir run for about 15 seconds disable the choke by pushing in the cable, the motor settles to a steady 650 +/- rpm.  Works for me.

Earl

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I recently discovered that some DCOEs have rear pull start valves - something new every day! Mine pull forward, and after many years of pedal pumping, coughing, spitting, etc. I decided "enough". I bought a universal 6" choke cable (try asking for that from the younger counter persons at NAPA) and fished it through original mounting holes, under the airbox, over the alternator and onto carbs. What a difference. Pull out choke knob, turn key, engine starts. Gradually push it back in, and off you go.

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I recently discovered that some DCOEs have rear pull start valves - something new every day! Mine pull forward, and after many years of pedal pumping, coughing, spitting, etc. I decided "enough". I bought a universal 6" choke cable (try asking for that from the younger counter persons at NAPA) and fished it through original mounting holes, under the airbox, over the alternator and onto carbs. What a difference. Pull out choke knob, turn key, engine starts. Gradually push it back in, and off you go.

 

Did you mean 6 feet?  I might pick one up from the parts store sometime and give it a shot.

 

Mine starts OK for the most part, but it's a little annoying to pump the gas and have it stumble a little when its real cold. 

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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Exactly like that - except I went under the intakes. BUT, watch out for battery terminals!!

And yes, 6'. I'm Canadian - we don't do feet.

They come in 5' lengths too - you might want to measure. Mine went on 2000CS.

Look for a locking cable if they have them. Seems to me there were some on Amazon.

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I have my enricheners hooked up.  I think I did a post long ago, probably buried in the archives.  I used a heavy duty mountain bike rear derailer lever and cable, which I attached under the steering column.  The ritual for starting addresses your lean back-firing you're experiencing.  Usually about half-way engaged is all it takes unless it's really cold.  However, what I've experienced, particularly with 45's is the air flow velocity at idle is usually not enough, so I hold the throttle pedal down a bit for the first minute of start-up, which helps move things along.

 

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Stacey
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I use my choke every time I start the motor. I pump the pedal 2-3 times, start the motor & use the choke to keep the rpm's ~ 1100 or so, while it warms up. My carbs and timing are not uber tuned like some other's here, so maybe that's why I have to use it.

 

I fed my cable through some split loom tubing to protect whatever it's running by. My first attempt of installing the cable, I used a generic cable - which pulled hard. ( too much friction) I went to Bav Auto and bought a "BMW Choke Cable", 6 foot. Installed it, cut it to length & it worked sooo much better.

 

Scott

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