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Replacing Brake Hoses - Advice?


ATLBMW

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Front brake hoses:

...

Is the trick to us an 11mm flare wrench at the top near the MC end and the 14mm on the bottom near the piston end, using both wrenches at the same time, opposing each other?

 

That's the correct method as you want them to "unscrew" from each other.  The more delicate fitting is the 11mm flare nut on the hard brake line, so definitely only use a good flare wrench on that one.

 

Another good idea, to avoid the pitfall that TobyB points out, is to use a small wire wheel on a Dremel and to "polish" the surface of the hard line close to where it goes into the 11mm flare nut and spray some PB Blaster in there.  That will insure that the flare nut will just spin off and slide down the hard brake line freely.

 

I just recently freed up brake lines that hadn't been done in about 40 years by following the above and even applying some heat with a heat gun if the connection seemed to be particularly stubborn.

 

Here is a photo showing the relatively corroded lines and the end of the line at the front polished with that little wire wheel on the Dremel.  Works like a charm, every time.

 

post-45192-0-08455600-1381548577_thumb.j

 

Regards, Maurice.

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Ok, completed the work today on the front hoses. Upon going on a test drive, the car is still pulling to the right, and when jacked up I can tell the caliper is not completely releasing, compared to the left side. I was hoping I could get away with just replacing the hoses, but it looks like I'll be doing the calipers as well. I plan to buy remanufactured ones from BavAuto, unless someone else as a suggestion.

Here's the crazy (and has to be somehow related, right?) thing that happened on my second test drive. I went for a short run on the highway, and at 55 it felt like the right side wheel was going to come off. When I got off the highway, right after the exit ramp I blew the tire.

1. Thank goodness this did not happen at 55.

2. I am not sure how old the tires are, so I plan to replace all 4.

3. This has to be related to the "pulling-to-the-right" issue I was having, right?

4. When I completed the brake hose replacement earlier today, I spun both front wheels to make sure the caliper had released. As I said earlier, the right side definitely had more resistance tha the left. The other thing I noticed is that the right side tire was not a perfect circle. It was slightly oblong. At that point I made the decision to replace all 4 tires, but thought I would be okay for a test drive to test the brake work. I was wrong.

For the record, the brakes stop the car great.

Any thoughts?

1976 2002

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Have a look for a 4 digit numeric code on the tires, which is (week of year) and (year, last 2 digits), so 5002 is December 2002 fer instance. After 6 years I start feeling antsy about my tires. YMMV.

 

A little more resistance at one caliper might be negligible IMO.

 

GL,

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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So the number isn't on there, which tells my they are pre-2000, which means they definitely need to be replaced!

the number is only on one side of the tire.

it can be 3 or 4 digits.

4 digit after 2000

3 digit from 99 back to 1980 i think.  first digit year, second two month.

 

geez, put new tires on it before you chase any other issues.  pulling likely the tires.  what was the air pressure in the tires?  

2xM3

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  • 4 weeks later...

Okay, update after a good amount of time collecting parts and doing some work: I have replaced the front hoses with rubber ones, and the right side brakes still hung up. Tonight I replaced the both brake calipers, and just finished bleeding the brakes. Also, I got four new tires. While I had the wheels off and all of the brake work going on, I decided to repaint the wheels.

So I've got 4 new tires, 2 new calipers, and new rubber hoses in the front. I haven't done my test drive yet, as I agreed to put the kids to bed when I finished.

I plan to go out in about 30 minutes - with what hopefully feels like a new car!

1976 2002

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Over the years the threaded fittings/tips on the metal pipes tend to rust to the pipe. The objective is to avoid twisting the metal brake line. One approach is to cut the rubber hose and then try turning it off the pipe fitting. If memory serves, you can then get a socket over the stub of the rubber line. Basically you want to lock the metal pipe fitting/tip while turning the rubber hose. Use of wire brush, PB Blaster should come first. Be careful applying heat.

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