Weber 32/36

[_iwanta2002_]

Car has been sitting for awhile and I want to get it running. No known history on much so im considering rebuilding the Weber. Any suggestions? Should I wait?

[Rocan]

I would try running it before rebuilding it. If fuel wasn't in the carb it should work. Might leak a bit depending how long it sat but no harm in trying to run before doing work.

Rebuild kits are easily available, it's a very easy carb to rebuild

['76mintgrün'02]

I would pop the top off while you have it out and see if there is any junk in the bowl and record what jets are in it. My H2O choke was full of crud as well. Give the shafts a wiggle side to side to check for play. They sell ball bearings to replace the plastic bushings if they are loose. Tom

[_iwanta2002_]

Thanks for the input, I am going to take the carb apart and look it over. I was also advised to consider manual or electric choke. I like manual, but wouldn't rule out sticking with the water choke. Any recommendations?

[Rocan]

When set up properly the water choke works very well and requires no real input from the driver to use (aside from depressing the accelerator once to the bottom in order to turn it on). Electric and manual chokes look a bit cleaner though as they require less plumbing.

[_iwanta2002_]

Thanks Rocan, always a big help!

[TobyB]

I've had better luck with the electric choke, for whatever reasons.

 

Get a kit, pop the top, and change the rubber bits and needle valve.  It's not really a 'rebuild' but it's

good for 95% of what ails a Weber.

 

Check the float for gas in it, set the level, read the numbers off the jets and write them down,

 

and off you go!  Almost guaranteed!

 

t

[peterschop]

I had no history on my 32/36 when I bought the car. I never touched it except for looking down the throat to make sure everything was working right. I have driven it two driving seasons now without incident. I figure if it ain't broke, don't fix it. At least until I run out of things to do.

 

I have the water choke and it works great. I give two pumps on the gas before I start it to close the choke and squirt a little fuel in. The choke then opens up as the water temperature warms up. Never have to think about it.

[willie002]

I had a car that sat for a while and I really didn't have trouble with the Weber but I did get into a lot of trouble for not drain the old gas out of the fuel tank. The fuel was contaminated and dirty and it plugged everything thing up and I had a lot of work getting that mess cleaned up. So think about draining the old fuel out and cleaning the filter in the tank. Add fresh premium gas and see what happens.  

[_iwanta2002_]

Thanks guys. I won't get around to the carb until tomorrow and at that point I will provide some feedback. Willie, I've already cleaned the fuel tank which was filthy, as expected. Thanks for the heads up. Did you encounter any gasket around the pump in the tank? Kind of looks like an O ring?

[peterschop]

Rubber "O" ring between sender and tank,still available from BMW 

[_iwanta2002_]

Thanks Pete. I purchased from BavAuto for 4 or 5 bucks, I just wanted to be sure that was where it actually belongs.

[borgpj]

I have this same two-barrel carb on my '73, but I don't know much about it.  How do they work?  Does the car run on one barrel up to a certain speed, and then the second barrel opens?  Or do the barrels feed different cylinders and all open together?

Phil B

[glemon]

I am learning about these carbs myself, but in observing the motion of the linkage and flaps it is clear that one barrel opens first (the smaller one as I recall, presumably the "32" in the name) and then if you really step on it the larger barrel opens as well.

Edited November 24, 2013 by glemon

[peterschop]

No expert myself but I think glemon is right on the money. If you want more performance out of your 32/36, you can add a Sync-link to it which will open both barrels together. Of course gas mileage may decline.