Weber 32/36

[Hans]

I'd be inclined to leave the progressive opening alone for street use.

 

Today's ethanol based fuels tend to produce gum and goop if left to evaporate. You may wish to spray carb cleaner through the jets and clean the bowl.

[_iwanta2002_]

I haven't tried a solex or the larger 38/38, but the 32/36 is great on my car. I started the rebuild on one and the Weber seem really easy to repair as well.

[Gil. H.]

No expert myself but I think glemon is right on the money. If you want more performance out of your 32/36, you can add a Sync-link to it which will open both barrels together. Of course gas mileage may decline.

I installed a sync-link kit about a year ago, the additional performance is nice but the impact to fuel economy is significant. My mpg went from 27+/- to around 22+/-. Using CD's jetting recommendations was also helpful. Plenty of info. here on the FAQ.

I don't know how close the performance is compared to a 38/38, but you can install quickly w/o having modify the intake manifold as is required on a 38/38, I believe.

[AustrianVespaGuy]

Personally I think Webers are super easy to work on, so I'd recommend you simply take it apart, clean everything, and put it back together.  Don't necessarily even need to replace anything unless you discover a real problem.  Regarding its operation, the above is correct.  The smaller 32mm butterfly opens ~2/3 of the way over about the first half of the pedal travel, and then on the second half of the pedal travel the 36mm throat starts to operate as well (and opens at a faster rate than the 32mm throat), such that both butterflies should be fully open once the pedal is all the way depressed.  So in effect what happens is you are running on one 'small' carburetor with modest pedal inputs for efficiency, an then on dual carburetors (one 'small' + one 'medium') when your really put your foot into it for better performance.  I'm not a fan of the sync-links because remember, at full throttle, it's all the same anyway, so there's no real increase in performance; all it really does is give you more throttle for less pedal input, which is why the efficiency goes down while cruising.  A progressive 32/36 should be just fine for any stock-ish motor.  Until you start changing the intake tract (e.g. sidedrafts) or engine internals (pistons/cam/etc.),  there's no sense in being over-carbureted as it will just impair the low-throttle drivability. As for the choke, remember that if you change away from the water choke, you'll need to find good plugs for the coolant passages.  Both the water and electric chokes have worked well in my experience, so it's really whatever you want.  On a final note, my personal favorite carb setup for a 2002 is a lynx single sidedraft:

http://www.racetep.com/weber/0245single.html

No, it's not as good as dual sidedrafts, but it's 90% as good, less expensive, and MUCH easier to keep tuned, although again on a less-modified motor I'd stick with a smaller 40/40 rather than the 45/45 that TEP includes in their full kit, but depends on the rest of your setup.  More detailed than you probably needed, but hope this helps!

 

-Carl

[airborne85]

Carl said...

 

I'm not a fan of the sync-links because remember, at full throttle, it's all the same anyway, so there's no real increase in performance; all it really does is give you more throttle for less pedal input, which is why the efficiency goes down while cruising.

 

Hi Carl you're explanation was wonderful until you said the above.  I'm hoping that you're speaking from your practical hands on experience , respectfully. 

 

I have a sync-linked 32/36 and before I synch-linked the carb I was happy with the overall performance.  However, when I installed the sync-link WOW.  The throttle response is night and day.  I got up the road way faster.  The car just came alive. 

 

So it seems that if you need less pedal input to get more throttle, then in this condition the more pedal input the faster you go.  Which is the case currently with my sync-linked '70...fun..

 

Also, fortunately I have a 1971 with a 38/38 it's a joy to drive HOWEVER I don't the 38/38 that I would hands down replace the sync-linked 32/36 both are a joy and both deliver the ultimate driving experience.

 

Now gas mileage may suffer HOWEVER this type of thrill is in my budget..

 

Anyway, two cents

 

ira

[AustrianVespaGuy]

Well fair enough Ira, I was forgetting about the difference in throttle response, that is true.  I was mostly speaking from the point that I actually liked my previous '02 with the 32/36 progressive better than when I tried a 38/38 and was assuming the linked setup would be pretty comparable to the 38/38, but I never actual did run with a linked 32/36, so I will happily defer to your first hand experience on that one!  I have run just about every other induction setup possible on the '02 though: 32/36 progressive, 38/38 synced, dual sidedrafs, single sidedraft, and now Megasquirt fuel injection (plenum manifold, no ITBs. . . yet!).  All have their pluses and minuses, really comes down on the rest of the setup of the car, how you like to use it, and how much you like to tinker with it!

 

-Carl

[airborne85]

Thanks for the reply Carl..

 

I said the above with the utmost respect. 

 

It sounds as if you have waaay more knowledge then I have. And I enjoyed your contribution.  I was just astonished at the difference between a sync-linked 32/36 and sans sync-link.

 

But, again your information above is very valid and I did not intend to take away from the information in anyway shape or form.

 

See you on the road

 

ira

[Mike Self]

Coupla things re the Weber when you have it apart...carefully inspect the accelerator pump diaphragm; if it's old/cracked/dried out you won't get that extra squirt of gas when you get on the throttle and the car will bog when suddenly accelerated.  There's a little nozzle in the primary barrel (the 32 mm one) that feeds accelerator pump gas into the carb throat.  Make sure it's clear too.  

 

Also, while reassembling the carb, make sure you reinstall the diffuser (that "bridge" that goes across each carb throat) correctly.  If you install it backwards there will be no gas flowing into the carb throat, and the car won't run.  If you look at the diffuser carefully, you'll notice its radially drilled on one end, and solid on the other.  The drilled end should face the float chamber.  Ask me how I learned this!  Also, if it fits a little loose, you can use a small punch to stake it in place, lightly hitting the solid end.

 

cheers,

mike

 

PS--my vote is for a manual choke.  It always works, and is driver controlled.

[jdeitch]

Great carb. I have a electric coke on my stock 2002. With a JAM adapter it fits perfectly under the stock air cleaner for a clean install.

[dbmw2002]

Just installed a 38 special on the Golfie, doing final tune on idle circut, couldnt be happier, the car loves it and so do I. The biggest difference so far is the low end torque, she just pulls out of the hole much better, curves or hills in second before she eats up in third. Smoother and no drama when you do get into it, havent fully explored the top end yet but am looking forward to a slight increase in that too. Only drive 100 miles a week and 15 bones is what I always put in, milage is the same if not better. Oh and she is happier on the highway, just smooooth

[borgpj]

More from the Newbie: What is a JAM adaptor?  I's like to use my stock air filter housing as well, instead of the chrome bugcatcher.  Also, can you keep the stock vacuum advance distributor with the 32/36?  If "yes", what vacuum port on the carb is used?  I haven't looked mine over that closely yet.

 

Thanks,

pb

[jdeitch]

In my signature is a link to a restoration blog for my 2002. I'm sorry it is not more up to date, but it does show the details of the JAM adapter.

Bottom of original air cleaner.

JAM adapter

[jdeitch]

I found my adapter on eBay I believe. Check the classified section here too.

Using the stock air cleaner also allows the use of the original cold air intake hose.

['76mintgrün'02]

I would like to put an original air filter assembly on my car, but do not want to remove the IE strut brace I installed.  I have thought of making a brace that would clear the filter, but the washer bottle is also in the way (on my '76).  I guess I am stuck with the 'boy-racer' look of the weber filter.

[jdeitch]

I would like to put an original air filter assembly on my car, but do not want to remove the IE strut brace I installed. I have thought of making a brace that would clear the filter, but the washer bottle is also in the way (on my '76). I guess I am stuck with the 'boy-racer' look of the weber filter.

Just make a custom strut bar. I did. Not a huge project.

 

 

Edited November 28, 2013 by jdeitch