steering and suspension Replacing Struts While On The Car

[Conway]

Here is the wire I used:  http://www.skygeek.com/ms20995c32.html

 

I wouldn't hurt to replace the "special" bolts after you get them out.  I got mine from Blunt.  Soak those bastards good with some penetrant.  You don't want to have to drill'em out!

[Beach_Bum]

This is actually a project that I'm just about to embark on also so while we're on the topic I'd like to verify what seems to be the consensus as to the proper method.  Please correct any steps that aren't right:

1.) Jack up, jack stands, etc.

2.) Remove wheel and brake caliper (hang out of the way, no need to disconnect hydraulics)

3.) Cut the safety wire and undo the three bolts holding the strut to the control arm

4.) Separate tie rod end from front knuckle.

5.) Undo three top mount bolts on top of fender well

6.) Remove if enough clearance, if not, go to steps 7 and 8.

7.) Disconnect stabilizer bar link from control arm

8.) Disconnect control arm and radius link from front subframe.

 

That all sound right?  Also, does anyone know where to get new spring pads/seats?  I figure I ought to replace those while I have everything apart.  Thanks!

 

-Carl

 

Here are some links with pictures that I've been studying. Maybe they'll help you as well:

 

http://www.cyclopticgaze.com/2002/26front_rebuild.html

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/124160-two-essential-tools-for-ball-joint-replacement/

 

About 3/4 of the way down on this link:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/116731-m20-triple-weber-build-x2/page-2

 

 

Here is the wire I used:  http://www.skygeek.com/ms20995c32.html

 

I wouldn't hurt to replace the "special" bolts after you get them out.  I got mine from Blunt.  Soak those bastards good with some penetrant.  You don't want to have to drill'em out!

 

Thanks!

Edited November 1, 2013 by Beach_Bum

[M3M3]

This is actually a project that I'm just about to embark on also so while we're on the topic I'd like to verify what seems to be the consensus as to the proper method.  Please correct any steps that aren't right:

1.) Jack up, jack stands, etc.

2.) Remove wheel and brake caliper (hang out of the way, no need to disconnect hydraulics)

3.) Cut the safety wire and undo the three bolts holding the strut to the control arm

4.) Separate tie rod end from front knuckle.

5.) Undo three top mount bolts on top of fender well

6.) Remove if enough clearance, if not, go to steps 7 and 8.

7.) Disconnect stabilizer bar link from control arm

8.) Disconnect control arm and radius link from front subframe.

 

That all sound right?  Also, does anyone know where to get new spring pads/seats?  I figure I ought to replace those while I have everything apart.  Thanks!

 

-Carl

delete items 4,7 and 8.

 

two caliper bolts, three lower strut bolts, three upper strut nuts and take it out.

 

edit....and the one little bolt that holds the brake hose bracket to the strut....i forgot about that one as i don't use it on my car.

Edited November 2, 2013 by mlytle

[roadhog0]

Blue loctite works on it too. I havent had an issue 20k in with mine... Proper torque is very important!

[Beach_Bum]

Blue loctite works on it too. I havent had an issue 20k in with mine... Proper torque is very important!

 

What is the proper torque on those?

[Hans]

If you can find a second person to help, try using a 2x4 to pry down on the control arm to get the top of the strut to clear the fender lip. (caliper and sway bar removed).

['76mintgrün'02]

What is the proper torque on those?

 

Try this: https://docs.google....p=sharing#gid=0