engine and drivetrain Transmission Seals, Wet Or Dry

[peterschop]

Now that I have my Getrag 245 drained of fluid with my newly made drain plug tool from parts out of the part bin,

.

It is time to replace the input and output seals. I did a search but did not find what I was looking for. The Blue Book shows how the seals go in but does not say anything about putting any sealer on first. Should I smear a little Hylomar on before pressing the seals in or put them in dry?

 

TIA,

Peter

[FB73tii]

I do my shaft seals dry on the outside and a bit of grease in the inner lip. Just did a trans input shaft that way. Recently put Hylomar on a diff side shaft seal and it was slippery and wanted to pop out. Cleaned it up and put it back in dry. YMMV. --Fred

Edited November 14, 2013 by FB73tii

[Hans]

I'd be doing the shift rod seal too.

[peterschop]

FB73ii said to put the seals in with a bit of grease on the inner lip but no sealant on the outside. I know that in some other cars it recommended to put a sealant such as Hylomar or Curil T on the outer lip of the seal.  

 

So should I not use sealant? Feel to chime in here and let me know what you would do. Wet or dry.

 

PS... I already did the shift rod seal. I put a little grease on the inside and nothing on the outside. I then pushed it in over top of the old seal with a 1/2" PVC pipe.

Edited November 14, 2013 by peterschop

[jimk]

I assume you know about the long/short capscrews scenario on the output seal holder?  Get em in the correct holes or it won't shift right.

[peterschop]

I assume you know about the long/short capscrews scenario on the output seal holder?  Get em in the correct holes or it won't shift right.

 

If I recall correctly, the short bolt goes in the 1 o'clock position or else you can't put it in reverse.

[roadhog0]

I wet the sealing surface lip area but nothing on the OD. No issues for me.

[peterschop]

Old seals are out and new seals go in tomorrow. I only got two reply's on whether or not to put sealant on the outside of the seals. I was hoping to get a little more feed back. Oh well, I guess I will press them in dry with a little grease packed on the inside.

 

On thing that surprised me was the instructions I read said to make sure the short bolt in the output shaft seal holder needs to be in the 1 o'clock position. My question is why would I need to remove the seal holder? I was able to fit my HF seal puller under the lip and give it a few solid whacks with a BFH and it popped out. I can just press the new one in and not have to bother removeing the cover.

[jimk]

On the cap screw - it was not apparent at that point in the thread whether the holder was off.  Often it is removed and later the shifting question comes up.

On the seal OD, I apply some sealant to avoid lube weap.  Years ago there wasn't much concern over a few leaks.

Edited November 15, 2013 by jimk

[TobyB]

Trans oil on the inside

(grease has not been so good to me)

and UltraBlack silicone on the outside.

 

No, it doesn't really need it for sealing.

Yes, the darned things go in so much easier and

with less chance of damage.

 

t

[jgerock]

I press the seals in dry and (if stated in the Blue Book) add some wheel bearing grease to the inside lip cavity.

 

Some transmissions have a paper gasket under the output shaft bearing cover.  I have used Curil T paste on one side of the gasket with good results.

 

As Jim K. mentioned above, if the bearing cover has been removed (from the 5 speed), there is one bolt that is shorter than the rest that must be installed in the 1 o'clock position (or just use all short bolts).