brakes Separating Hub & Caliper

[Dutchie3719]

I can't seem to separate the hub and caliper to replace the press fit wheel studs. I've tried heat, and air tools, but all the hex key bolts are pretty damn stuck. It's not like they're very rusty either, I'm betting they got over-torqued before I got my grubby paws on the car. Any trick to separating them? Anyone know torque spec for these bolts?

 

While I'm at it, any tips on press fitting the new studs in?

-Dan

[Texasyeti]

So you have not been able to get the allen bolts out that hold the hub and rotor together? I got mine apart a couple days ago with no too many issues.

 

I don't know if it really works or not but giving the bolts a good whack has helped me with stuck bolts in the past. A little of that, some PB blaster, some heat (be careful of the fumes). I do it several times applying force gradually.

 

Good luck!

[Mike Self]

Presume you mean the hub and rotor, not caliper.  If so, and if the allen bolts are really stuck, I'd remove the hub/rotor assembly from the car and use heat on the allen bolts that hold the two together. Much safer than heating 'em on the car, as the grease around the wheel bearings can melt/catch fire, and you might ruin the wheel bearing grease seal and not know it.  

 

Be careful forcing the allen bolts--you really don't want to either break 'em or round 'em off; in their recessed position they will be a real PITA to remove if either happens.  Heat, penetrating oil and patience are your friends.

 

Once you have the bolts out, a few whangs with a hammer (dead blow if you have one, otherwise a heft ball pein) will separate hub and rotor.  Before you reassemble, I'd coat the hub/rotor mating surfaces with anti-seize compound, and also put some on the allen bolt threads.  That'll prevent future trauma...

 

cheers

mike

[TobyB]

Make sure you're using an in-hex socket.  I have reverted to a rattle gun in past-

those things really like to bind in there.  Wear safety glasses.

 

And this is probably the #1 reason I go to vented brakes in front.  Well, that and the warping

 

t

[tim385]

Cussing at it seems to help as well.Dont forget to appologise when they come loose....

[Dutchie3719]

DOH! Hub and Rotor.

 

They are off car. Broken Stud, and sqeaky wheel bearing...

 

Beyond Heat and Really Really Long Bars there's nothing I'm missing eh?

[dbmw2002]

Cussing

 

+1 on this

 

++2 on cussing in German, maybe c.d. has a language converter in his stash

[Hans]

I put it in a vise with tubes around the stud threads. Others bolt it to a rim and tire to hold it steady. PB blaster soak, heat, I've used the impact gun on a low setting. If you do it by hand, like any rusty bolt, the trick is to go slowly, and every few turns out, wind it back in and start again. That tends to avoid a build=up of crud on the threads that can bind and snap a bolt.

[baller908790]

Bolt it to the rim that's off the car and use a big ole 1/2 inch wrench

with a cheater bar if necessary. The correct size Allen socket always

helps. If you have an impact you can use that or the old style one that

you hit with a hammer and twist at the same time. 

[Napes]

The correct torque is listed for: Brake disc to wheel hub:  43-48 lb-ft

 

Bob Napier

[LarsAlpina]

+1 on this

 

++2 on cussing in German, maybe c.d. has a language converter in his stash

 

No cussing in german. It´s "küssen" with two dots above the "u".

 

Best regards, Lars.

Edited December 6, 2013 by LarsAlpina

[Dutchie3719]

Yeah, it's not 43-48 lb-ft. It's somewhere between 43-48 Sheisse/min

[Dutchie3719]

I noticed I never actually posted my success, It took a 5 foot jack handle, a wall, a tire, and three guys. Good tip on bolting back to the wheel. 

[baller908790]

If Marshall would only post the pic of the guys taking of the "Jesus" nuts. 

[roadhog0]

We're talking about crazy nuts are we... I had a bear of a time getting my strut gland nuts off >.<