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Radiator Hose Interferes With New Fuel Pump


Goudey

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Yes, my new pump is the short style and is up tight to the hose.  I installed it a year and a half ago and it has not been a problem.  It is probably fine as long as the hose is fresh.  

 

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(I have cleaned up the carburetor and crappy hose clamps) ( :) )  

The hose clamp on the left is waaaaaay to tight. I can see rubber squeezing through the clamp serrations.

No amount of skill or education will ever replace dumb luck
1971 2002 (much modified rocket),  1987 635CSI (beauty),  

2000 323i,  1996 Silverado Pickup (very useful)

Too many cars.

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Good eye allbim!  

That is what I was referring to when I wrote

"(I have cleaned up the carburetor and crappy hose clamps) (  :) )"

That crappy-style clamp was oooverly tight to make up for the small outlet on the pump.

One day, I would like to purchase enough hose clamps to replace them all with the style c.d. recommends. 

 

 

Pump suction inlets are always larger than the discharge (even on large pumps of thousands of HP, I worked with pumps and pumping systems, in part, for 40years) so the fluid won't cavitate.

 

I now understand that a smaller pump Outlet ID is necessary, but wish they made the Outlet OD to match the inlet OD; which is similar in size to the Weber inlet OD and the OD of the filter inlet and Outlet.

(I have a bit of OCD and this bothers me).  

 

I do have a lathe and could turn new outlet for the pump.  Are they simply pressed into the pump housing? 

 

How have people dealt with this problem?  Puny fuel line?  Sleeve on the outlet?

 

 

   

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Pump outlet is stock size and most likely matches the solex.  Weber is aftermarket, so it's yours to find a hose that works.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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another suggestion:  use one of those plastic fuel filters on the outlet side of the pump.  The filter has stepped diameters that will match up with the two sizes you need.  Looks kind of odd to have two filters (assuming you are already using one) but is low cost solution.

Edited by yeewiz

Bob

BMWCCA #4844 (#297 of The 308)

1974 2002 Sahara, MM 2400 Rally engine, MM 5 speed and conversion

1976 2002A Anthracite parts car

1991 525i AlpinweiB II

2002 330ci AlpinweiB III

2007 530xiT Titanium Silver

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another suggestion:  use one of those plastic fuel filters on the outlet side of the pump.  The filter has stepped diameters that will match up with the two sizes you need.  Looks kind of odd to have two filters (assuming you are already using one) but is low cost solution.

There ya go, excellent!. This is where the filter belongs anyway, between the pump and carb.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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  • 5 months later...

Pump suction inlets are always larger than the discharge ... so the fluid won't cavitate.

 

 

 

Well, I finally decided to address this problem by making a new outlet nipple for the fuel pump.  I made it with the same ID as the original, but stepped the OD up to match the inlet side.  All the fittings now work with 5/16" fuel line, without the need to squeeze the b-jezus out of it.  Does this seem like a reasonable solution?  (new clamps are still on my shopping list) 

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That is a reasonable fix. I just bought from england 8mm fuel hose for the incoming side and 6mm fuel hose for the outgoing side.

 

You can get fuel hose clamps at Autozone

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Help-Fuel-injector-hose-clamp-with-range-9-16-5-8-in-fits-inside-3-8-in-hose-dia-designed-for-high-pressure-of-fuel-injection-systems/_/N-25x2?itemIdentifier=347131_0_0_

1976 BMW 2002 Chamonix. My first love.

1972 BMW 2002tii Polaris. My new side piece.

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FWIW I tested the pressure this pump put out and it was just over 4 psi.  I tried the taller one piece Pierburg that I replaced and the needle jumped between 1 and 3 psi... back and forth 1-3, 1-3, 1-3.  The pump was working when I took it out, but maybe it is toast?  The pressure tests were done with no fuel and just the starter cranking the engine.

 

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As far as the OP hose clearance issue goes, I am tempted to cut the hose barb off the cast aluminum piece and TIG weld it back on, at a slight angle to give more clearance; (while I am replacing my weeping water pump).
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(the fuel hoses are loose for these photos, so the filter on the clamp screw is not a concern... I love how people pick up on the little details on this site)
 
I realize that this is not a practical solution, but that doesn't mean I won't pursue it... unless it is just plain stupid, for some reason.
 
 

   

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