engine and drivetrain Radiator Hose Interferes With New Fuel Pump

[M3M3]

 

I disagree on a hose as short as this.  I also disagree with the amount of vibration.

maybe "vibrates like crazy" is on the high side, but everything in a car vibrates. some low frequency, some high frequency. no matter how smooth an engine feels, it is vibrating. merely driving a car causes bumps and vibrations from the road and the rest of the moving parts. soft stuff against hard stuff will wear out if there is vibration present. it could take 20min in a race car, it could take 20 years on a street car, but it will wear through. have seen examples of both, on a variety of engines including M10's. given the picture posted after my response, i agree this particular hose will not wear quickly, but if it was mine i would still put something between the hose and the pump.

[jimk]

On this hose, I think my tagline applies.  In my opinion, the hose will rot out before chafing has any effect on it.  As eurotrash says, "Run it".

It's non relavent, but I was in charge of all the hoses on several diesel subs while working at Pearl Harbor for the Navy.  Run it.

[ndog]

On this hose, I think my tagline applies.  In my opinion, the hose will rot out before chafing has any effect on it.  As eurotrash says, "Run it".

It's non relavent, but I was in charge of all the hoses on several diesel subs while working at Pearl Harbor for the Navy.  Run it.

aha someone to blame for the uss blueback debacle  jk

i agree with anyone who thinks chaffing staps and/or extra protection from heat/vibration/harmonics is a great idea

[OriginalOwner]

 +1 mlytle.

 

 A basic engineering lesson:  if it's got mass, it's gonna vibrate.  You've got  (hose)  +  (water in hose)  moving around against the metal of the fuel pump.  Lots of mass.

 

And is this is a pressurized coolant hose ??  If so, that means the hose itself is expanding out against the fuel pump body thus more force applied to the hose itself means a higher localized induced contact stress which means "grinding" of the soft rubber hose as it vibrates against the hard fuel pump body which means eventual hole in the hose and coolant loss when the hose fails at "grind" point.

 

Cheap insurance to install a chafe-guard as described.  Not to mention peace of mind when you are a long long long walk from water and it's noon and 110-deg on the Mojave desert highway.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

Edited December 6, 2013 by OriginalOwner

[jimk]

 +1 mlytle.

 

 A basic engineering lesson:  if it's got mass, it's gonna vibrate.  You've got  (hose)  +  (water in hose)  moving around against the metal of the fuel pump.  Lots of mass.

 

And is this is a pressurized coolant hose ??  If so, that means the hose itself is expanding out against the fuel pump body thus more force applied to the hose itself means a higher localized induced contact stress which means "grinding" of the soft rubber hose as it vibrates against the hard fuel pump body which means eventual hole in the hose and coolant loss when the hose fails at "grind" point.

 

Cheap insurance to install a chafe-guard as described.  Not to mention peace of mind when you are a long long long walk from water and it's noon and 110-deg on the Mojave desert highway.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

Drivers need to look under the hood once and a while.

[M3M3]

On this hose, I think my tagline applies.  In my opinion, the hose will rot out before chafing has any effect on it.  As eurotrash says, "Run it".

It's non relavent, but I was in charge of all the hoses on several diesel subs while working at Pearl Harbor for the Navy.  Run it.

i bet the PMS cards were run on your boats like clockwork.  parts didn't reach wear/failure points.  most car owners just run things until they break, fix with cheapest possible used parts, then run them until they break again.  no dedicated techs like you to watch over them. 

 

Drivers need to look under the hood once and a while.

+100!!!!

[dbmw2002]

Heres another line of thinking for protecting hose, 75 degree celsius water preheating the fuel pump? Not in my bag of trix, heres my cure, get to know your auto parts guy and get in the backroom to cruise the hose selection, you wont believe how easy it will be to find a hose with a kink and a bend in it to fix this proper.

Edited December 6, 2013 by dbmw2002

['76mintgrün'02]

Drivers need to look under the hood once and a while.

 

 

apparently we need to look under the fuel pump once in a while as well

 

I just pulled the pump to take a peek after running this pump for two years and around 6k miles.

Here is what it looks like. 

 

 

... to find a hose with a kink and a bend in it to fix this proper

 

 

 

the proper fix is to find the proper pump... (like the one I replaced with this one).  

I liked the look of this as well as the serviceability... the fit on the other hand is not so good for this engine.

 

 

Here is the hose 

 

[LarsAlpina]

+1 on protecting the hose. No fun if a hose blows up in a cloud of steam on the Autobahn at about 150mph. Happened to me once near Munich - not with a 2002 though.

 

One question: Why don´t you just buy original, longer fuel pump? Is that NLA or is it a price thing? I´m more into K-Fischer for about a while now and so didn´t have to buy a mechanical fuel pump for a longer time now.

 

Best regards, Lars.

[eurotrash]

Lars, this shorter pump is readily available on ebay for under 50$.  the 'stock' pumps are pushing 100$.

[LarsAlpina]

Lars, this shorter pump is readily available on ebay for under 50$.  the 'stock' pumps are pushing 100$.

 

I see, THX for info!

[Kpeters]

Well I threaded that hole in the water divider and screw in an allen bolt with some thread locker, did something similar on the intake manifold side. I'm also using a 320i coolant hose that goes from the intake manifold to the inlet on the back of the block bypassing the heater.

[M3M3]

hmmm....there is always the other solution.....

 

 

delete the darn mech pump and run an electric one.  no more interference issue..

 

 

<ducking and running for cover!    >

[dbmw2002]

] hmmm....there is always the other solution..... delete the darn mech pump and run an electric one. no more interference issue..

No ducky, makes for a great kill switch too, they about get to the end of the driveway and it dies, you are standing there in PJs knockin on said window with a guost of Christmas past, Mr Winchester I do call him

Edited December 7, 2013 by dbmw2002

[gregpark]

hmmm....there is always the other solution.....

 

 

delete the darn mech pump and run an electric one.  no more interference issue..

 

 

<ducking and running for cover!    >

what I did, put the battery in the trunk and an electronic pump where the battery used to live