engine and drivetrain Output Shaft Seal Replacement

[bnam]

While my driveshaft is at IE being shortened by 14mm, I plan to replace the output flange seal.

 

I bought a thinwalled 30mm deep socket and built a lever with angle iron.  But, I'm not able to budge the nut with a 1/2" breaker bar.  There's not enough room to use a pipe over the breaker bar to increase leverage -- though will try to raise the car a bit more tomorrow (did buy taller 6-ton jack stands).

 

There's a place nearby called u-do-it which is a diy garage with racks/lifts and tools for the diy to use.  Perhaps I need to install the drive shaft and take my car there and see if I can get more leverage when it is up on the lift.

 

 

 

Byas

[Buckeye]

You wouldn't happen to have access to pneumatic gun or did you already tried that. I read here that some guys have had much luck with air gun.

[Preyupy]

I'll bet someone used Loctite. Try some heat, DO NOT GET ANYTHING HOT ENOUGH TO TURN RED! It should be torqued to over 100 ft/lb (I don't remember the exact number off the top of my head). Be carefull don't yank on it so hard you knock the car off the jack stands!! Use red Loctite when you put it back together.

[M3M3]

put car higher on jackstands for more clearance?

 

can't tell from pic, but is the lockplate removed from the nut?

 

air impact gun....

[bnam]

Lock plate?  Oops -- I removed no such thing.  Will check for it in the AM.  How do I remove that?

B

[Preyupy]

If he got the socket on the nut the lock plate is not there. More times than not people don't put the lock plate back on anyway. I'll bet whoever put the 4 bolt flange on the OD gearbox did not use a lock plate.

[TobyB]

Try getting the breaker bar and your angle iron close together.

 

Then squeeze.

 

If that doesn't work, you can come up with some rigging (ratchet strap?) to improve your leverage...

 

t

[jgerock]

I ran into the same thing the first time I did this on my tii (with 4 speed).  I just positioned the "bar" so that it rested against the body.

 

Or - if your piece of angle iron is long enough, position it so it rests on the floor.

 

Similar time frame - I may have used the exhaust as my stop point.

[jimk]

Your photo of the angle bar and flex handle is not natural for turning the nut to the left for removal.  Is that angle pointing to the left at the bottom of the photo just for the photo or are you turning the nut in the tightening direction?

[BillWilliams]

Brian, did you remove the lock plate? As small as it is, it will defeat air and all the leverage you can muster.

 

Edited December 8, 2013 by BillWilliams

[roadhog0]

This is what you need. Will make this job a million times easier.

 

[OriginalOwner]

based on jimk's comment .......

 

I've never done this task, so an obvious question:  is that a right-hand thread or left-hand thread ??  To loosen, do you turn CW or CCW when you are looking from-back-of-car-to-front-of-car ??

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

Edited December 8, 2013 by OriginalOwner

[Mikesmalaga72]

Use a block of wood and let the flange holder rest on the driveshaft tunnel/floor pan while you use two hands on the breaker bar.

[FB73tii]

Your photo of the angle bar and flex handle is not natural for turning the nut to the left for removal.  Is that angle pointing to the left at the bottom of the photo just for the photo or are you turning the nut in the tightening direction?

It is correct if the locking lever is long and resting on the ground

 

Brian, did you remove the lock plate? As small as it is, it will defeat air and all the leverage you can muster.

As said above, you can't get the 30mm socket in there if the nut plate is still in. Thus is has been removed already.

UPDATE: Apparently you can get a thin-wall socket on with the plate--I stand corrected.

 

I've never done this task, so an obvious question:  is that a right-hand thread or left-hand thread ??  To loosen, do you turn CW or CCW when you are looking from-back-of-car-to-front-of-car ??

I am not aware of any reverse nuts on the 2002. The standard term is "lefty-loosy, righty-tighty", or turn the nut CCW to loosen as viewed from the top of the nut, same as all the other nuts on the car.

 

BTW, +3 on using a bit of heat from a propane torch (or MAPP) to break the hold of the locktite that has most likely been used based on the difficulty of breaking loose that nut. Any progress yet?

 

--Fred '69 & '74tii

Edited December 9, 2013 by FB73tii

[bnam]

Yes, the bar rests on the ground.  There seems to be something between the threads and flange, as I was able to scrape some of it off with a small screw driver -- so probably loc-tited.  The last install was done by Schatz and Krumm right after I got the car 2 years ago.  They probably installed the loc-tite when replacing the seal.  

 

I need to go get propane heater to heat the joint and try again.  I do have a cheap cordless impact wrench, but don't have a big compressor and proper air impact wrench. 

 

Byas