engine and drivetrain Output Shaft Seal Replacement

[Mikesmalaga72]

Use a block of wood and let the flange holder rest on the driveshaft tunnel/floor pan while you use two hands on the breaker bar.

Remove lock plate first then turn the Right hand thread nut counter clockwise. .

[Mikesmalaga72]

Use a block of wood and let the flange holder rest on the driveshaft tunnel/floor pan while you use two hands on the breaker bar.

Edited December 8, 2013 by Mikes 02

[M3M3]

You CAN get a socket on the nut with a lockplate in place.....

[Mikesmalaga72]

Use a block of wood and let the flange holder rest on the driveshaft tunnel/floor pan while you use two hands on the breaker bar.

Remove lock plate first (optional) lol, then turn the Right hand thread nut counter clockwise. Use appropriate 1/2 drive extension and socket thin wall and just use impact wrench or breaker bar. Have another lock plate available when you reassemble. Torque wrench is a good tool to have.

Edited December 8, 2013 by Mikes 02

[bnam]

 

 

Is the lockplate on?  Doesn't seem like it is, unless it's what looks like a washer behind the nut.  Any pic of the installed lock plate so I can compare?

Byas

Edited December 8, 2013 by bnam

[BillWilliams]

Sorry double post

Edited December 8, 2013 by BillWilliams

[BillWilliams]

Brian,

 

Dig around the wall of the transmission and see if you can detect that little lock plate. It seems I detect an area where the edge may be.

 

 

Dig in around the "moil" with a pick or very small screwdriver. If you find something that wants to bend, that is the lock plate.  Just keep separating it from the wall of the transmission until you can free it.

 

And yes a socket will fit on the nut with the lock plate on. I beat on my nut, that sounds bad, with the big IR gun pictured above, and the nut would not move until I discovered and removed the lock plate.

 

Plus, it looks like there is some separation between the edge of the hex sides of the nut that may indicate the lock plate. That nut has a flange on it that would not allow that appearance of separation. 

 

Then again, I may be all wet.

 

Here is what one looks like with the lock plate intact.

 

Edited December 8, 2013 by BillWilliams

[M3M3]

Do not see the lockplate in there.

Put one on when you reassemble.

The lockplate locks by being dented out into the recess on right side of tranny in pic.

Edited December 8, 2013 by mlytle

[bnam]

Two more angles.  And, I ran a dental pick along the edge and it did not catch on anything.

 

 

[BillWilliams]

Then Heat, brute strength or a Big @#^ air gun

Edited December 8, 2013 by BillWilliams

[peterschop]

I don't think you have a lockplate in place. My first picture shows my three bolt flange with lockplate and nut. The second is the flange back on with nut and lockplate in position. I think in your picture you are looking at the back part of the nut, not a washer.

 

 

 

As for those who say you can't put a socket on and remove the nut with the lockplate in place, I say you can and I did. I do not recommend this method and I would not do it that way again but I did not realize I had a lockplate in position. 

 

What I did was grind my socket down so it would fit over the nut with lockplate still on. I wedged a cold chisel between the trans and flange to keep it from turning.  I then used a 18" long 1/2" breaker bar with a 30" piece of pipe as a cheater bar. I got my son to hold the transmission to keep it from turning. With enough leverage, the nut will come off. The hardest part was keeping the transmission from turning while I used the cheater bar. 

 

This picture shows how I kept the flange from turning. You can see the black pipe on the floor that I used to put over the breaker bar. I did not use the ratchet wrench in the picture. If I did, it would have broke.

 

If you can, use a longer breaker bar or even better yet, an impact wrench. 

[FB73tii]

A note of caution--if you use a ton of force on a breaker bar be sure to wear safety glasses. They can and do break!

 

I didn't realize one could fit a thin-wall socket on with the nut-plate in place. I have a deep impact socket I ground down that won't do that, but a Craftsman 30mm that might. I can imagine wedging the socket in would make the plate bind and removal difficult.

Edited December 9, 2013 by FB73tii

[bnam]

This picture makes it clear for me.  No lock plate.  Still got to contend with the loc-tite. 

 

 

10-25-2013 pictures 226.jpg

 

 

[allbim]

That looks like the lock-plate to me.  Is the seal leaking or are you just replacing it because the drive shaft is out.  If it was replaced 2 years ago, I wouldn't touch it unless it leaks.  Judging by the sealant squeezed out at the seal carrier flange (bearing retainer flange) some work has been done.

 

Edit: I'll take that back, I don't see a lock-plate pushed into the notch in the Guibo flange.

I stand by the rest of what I said.

Edited December 9, 2013 by allbim

[peterschop]

lockplate

 

no lockplate