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Weber 38 Linkage Issue


simonr

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I took the plunge and installed a 38/38 weber. I had the 32/36 and I felt the motor could use some more juice. The install went very well until I went to hook up the throttle linkage. The linkage rod the hooks to the carb is 180 degrees reversed. It points south and needs to north horizontally.Reversing the C clamp was my first idea but a big scew is in the way and wont work  How do I address this? can it be bent 180 or is there a better way to hook up this linkage?  Thanks for the ideas 

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Exactly, and the fuel inlet is on the wrong side (hose from fuel pump) with correct side not threaded. Not quite the plug & play it used to be. On the linkage I carefully used bench grinder to remove enough material to use the supplied c clamp, be very careful when removing nut clamping it, dont tourqe against the idle stop ie have throttle mid point when loosening and tightning this bolt. The good news it will work and you will be happy with performance, very smooth and more low end

Happy Trails to u~ Dave Miller
76 Golf~Rhiannon~BM Mascot~*~97 328is~Silver Ghost~*~68 1600~Wisperin Beast~*~70-02~Bumble Beast~*~76 02~Beast~

Keep smilin all the way

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weber 38/38 rotate counter clockwise, 32/36 rotate clockwise you have 2 options. 1 convert your carb to cable linkage (witch i think works alot better) 2 find a linkage rod that works with weber 38/38 witch shouldnt be to hard to find.

 

Not true, they all operate in same counter clock direction

Happy Trails to u~ Dave Miller
76 Golf~Rhiannon~BM Mascot~*~97 328is~Silver Ghost~*~68 1600~Wisperin Beast~*~70-02~Bumble Beast~*~76 02~Beast~

Keep smilin all the way

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I think Ireland has a throttle rod that works with this conversion. Been thinking about making this switch myself. I have a 32/36 with quick link that seems good but I think I'd rather have a carb that was designed to have synchronous opening of both barrels. I would be interested to hear your opinion after you solve your throttle linkage problem. Also where did you purchase and did they give you jetting that was good for your car? Good luck

Mike Katsoris CCA#13294                                                

74 InkaGangster 4281862

2016 Porsche Boxster Spyder,    2004 BMW R1150RT,  
76 Estorilblau 2740318                      

 
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I suposse things could have changed over the years but when I switched to a 38/38 (from Jam Eng'r) about 15 years ago I simply unbolted and removed the 32/36 that was on the car and replaced it with the 38/38 on my '75 and reconnected the ball nut.  Nothing really had to be changed, except to remove the lever arm on the back of the carb that seems to come with all Weber's and is not appropriate on our cars.

 

My wife's '76 still has the 32/26 Weber but the linkage is the same as on my car.

 

Bob Napier

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yes it has changed. The linkage arm goes the opposite way to the 32\36 . it looks to me the easiest way to fix this is to put the rod in the vice and heat it up and then bend it the correct direction. I just need to spend some time with it to make sure that it will still work that way . nothing is ever simple in my world

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I used the linkage fastening thing from my 32/36, which came from the stock Solex.

 

My 38 turns the same way but the angle was wrong. (38/38 DGMS, that is)

 

I just bent the 90 degree bend at the carb end of the linkage to fit. And repositioned the mount on the firewall to keep it in line with the carb axle, which made it necessary to rebend the linkage from pedal up to keep the travel correct..

 

But, now it works better, and WAY smoother, than ever. I might need a sturdier return spring..=)

Edited by GreenSwede

Ola Gustafson
Sweden
-------------------
1975 Taiga Euro 2002 3685483 - Weber 38/38 DGMS - Pertronix Ignitor - H&R Cup Kit - TEP headers and Simons 2" sport exhaust - 3.91 LSD.

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Keep in mind the Chinese knockoff weber 38/38 oddly have the linkage in the same position as the 32/36 so not everyone's experience will apply.  If you are using a real Redline Weber 38/38 (that IE, Canon, and TopEnd carry) that has been made since the Italian to Spanish switchover then your linkages are the same as simonr is describing.

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I could just heat and bend my linkage rod but it is heavily worn and looks to have been bent before. IE has a replacement just for the 32/36 conversion. I opted to go that rout . I will post some pics of the new linkage as IE has none. I will also review their product and post my feelings about going with the 38 .

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Keep in mind the Chinese knockoff weber 38/38 oddly have the linkage in the same position as the 32/36 so not everyone's experience will apply.  If you are using a real Redline Weber 38/38 (that IE, Canon, and TopEnd carry) that has been made since the Italian to Spanish switchover then your linkages are the same as simonr is describing.

 

Seems about right, mine is from TopEnd.

Ola Gustafson
Sweden
-------------------
1975 Taiga Euro 2002 3685483 - Weber 38/38 DGMS - Pertronix Ignitor - H&R Cup Kit - TEP headers and Simons 2" sport exhaust - 3.91 LSD.

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Update. The throttle rod from IE worked perfectly. I did some mild portmatching to my stock manifold. Then I bolted on the new 38. It was 26 degrees outside which was a heat wave to what it had been. I thought what the hell I will turn it over to see if will start. It fired right up. I was shocked. I let it warm up, set the idle and dialed in the dual idle mixtures . the factory settings were spot on very little if any adjustment was nec. I took it out for a spin and was amazed at the difference in the car. It went from being a sports sedan to a sports car. No stumbling no flat spot just increased torque and power . It idles much smoother than the 32/36 . I am very pleased with the 38 carb . I drove it a lot today and the wow factor was way up there!!

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