body and interior Heater Valve Rebuild

[M3M3]

Pulled the hose from the head, definitely no problem there. Coolant gushed out. Reattached hose and started car, started car for a brief moment with the heater valve cover off, coolant definitely flowing to the valve. Shot more air through. Seems to be going through the heater core. Sealed it back up, ran for a long time, got discernable warming of the air, but wouldn't call it heat. Back to thinking the heater core is mucked up, maybe partially plugged, project for another day.

well, good that you have some flow.

 

so if you had the cover off the valve, what do the innards look like?  is it intact and allowing full flow to go through it when control is on warm?   is the control wire adjusted correctly to fully open the valve when control is on "hot".  if the cable has slipped, the valve may not be opening all the way resulting in not much heat...

[glemon]

No not pristine, but pretty clean inside, and opens and closes and goes through the range of motion as it should.

 

I flushed out the radiator (just ran a hose through it backwards to regular flow, and tapped it a little to loosen up any scale and crud) shortly after I got the car,  but I think I will try reverse flushing the motor and heater this spring.

[M3M3]

report back come spring!

[EvilEmpire]

Started rebuilding my heater valves as a start to my heater box rebuild. My project car didn't have heater valve, got on off ebay and another in one of the barn find boxes. I had already ordered and received a rebuild kit from Bluntech and one of the valves I have had the broken plastic guts so the Blunt kit fits in there. The other valve has all Brass parts. 

Which one of these will work best the plastic or brass innards?

Also I need the seals for the second valve - I have the little one in an o-ring kit but the larger 31mm ID seal - where do you guys find that one?

 

[PaulTWinterton]

1 hour ago, EvilEmpire said:

Which one of these will work best the plastic or brass innards?

Also I need the seals for the second valve - I have the little one in an o-ring kit but the larger 31mm ID seal - where do you guys find that one?

 

I'm a fan of the all-brass one.  Easiest fix in the world with only 2 washers to replace.  And it shines up real nice.  The only problem is finding the washers.  A member here was gracious enough to send me a few of each in a letter envelop a few years ago.  I still have one set for the next time my valve deteriorates.  Can't for the life of me remember who sent the washers.  My valve has been great since and is very smooth in the transition from cold to hot and back.

 

 

[JohnS]

Here's a link to a thread where I list the sizes and where you can buy the O-rings for the heater valve.  Looks like you have one of the heater valve rebuild kits that Blunt sells.  They work great.  I had one of the all brass valves seize up on me, so now I'm partial to the valves rebuilt using the kit.  They have a really smooth open/close action after the rebuild and I like the stainless steel threaded rod that will never strip out.  Good luck,

John