body and interior Heater Valve Rebuild

[1972-2002]

ok so i go to Blunttech and click on heater valve and it says "no longer stocked" does that mean they don't carry the kit or did i search on the wrong part. Any help?

 

Garry

[BLUNT]

here you go

 

http://bmw.blunttech.com/Upgrade-Parts-Maintenance-Kits/BMW/1502-2002TII/1502-2002TII-Maintenance/E10-Heater-Valve-Repair-Kit-p146282.html

[1972-2002]

that helps

thanks Blunt

[glemon]

Thanks as well for the link to the rebuild kit, I searched all over the site and couldn't find it (course I couldn't find my heater valve either, so maybe I am not the "find it" guy), I think my valve is OK, but will keep the part link for future refernce.

 

I did get a chance to run my car up to temp today and still no heat, the core and hoses to the core do not appear to be blocked, do the heater cores  tend to get air bubbles locked in them? that is the only other thing I can think of short of taking the whole darn thing apart, which isn't going to happen in the winter.  If the heater cores do tend to get air pockets is there a tried and true fix, have tried topping up the radiator with the cap off and motor running, no luck.

[schoir]

Trapped air bubbles are usually not a problem in the heater cores of 2002.  You might try running the engine with the front of the car elevated as that might let some air bubbles escape.

 

If you think air bubbles are causing the problem, a sure fire way to remove all air bubbles from the cooling circuit is to use a vacuum tool such as the Airlift Uview tool: http://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388339777&sr=8-1&keywords=uview+airlift

That tool even effectively removes all air bubbles from Porsches, which are particularly troublesome because the radiators are up front and the engines are either mid-mounted or in the rear (Boxsters, Caymans, 911's).

 

If you don't want to get the tool now, perhaps run the engine with the heater control set to "cold"  and feel the small (about 3" long) hose just to the rear of the heater control valve.  That hose should be cold at that time.  Then  slide the heater control lever all the way to "hot" to see if it gets hot.  If it does, that will give you a better indication of whether the valve is actually opening.  It may not get really hot if the coolant is not circulating.

 

Since you don't plan to take the whole thing apart, you can also try to clear any obstructions in the heater core circuit by forcing compressed air into the hose that goes into the firewall to the heater valve.  Make sure the valve is open, setting on "hot" and observe the neck of the radiator.  Start with low pressure as you only want to see if there is flow-through.  Then drain and refill the system to see if a blockage was the cause of the problem.

 

Regards, Maurice.

[glemon]

Maurice, thanks, already did the compressed air trick, it does not appear to be blocked, Air from one end blew water out the other, but the car was sitting for a long time before I got it, that dual outlet piece that takes the two big radiator hoses is corroded to the point where it is almost unusable, so maybe something is blocked up, but not sure where, I also checked the valve by pulling the cover off, it is fine, all atttached and moving as it should, not blocked, not leaking.

[M3M3]

have you confirmed the outlet on the back of the head is not blocked?  this is the outlet the hot coolant comes from and does direct to the heater valve.  pull the hose off the head to see is someone may have sealed it in the past to "fix" a leaking heater core.

 

if you have no coolant coming out of that outlet and it has not been capped, you have internal engine problems....

['76mintgrün'02]

I was not getting heat even though the lever on the valve was moving.  Turns out the screw attaching the lever was loose, so the valve itself was not opening.  I made sure the valve and lever were properly aligned and tightened the screw.  The valve is stiff, but I was able to open it and now have heat.  I expect I will need to rebuild the valve when I eventually do the box itself, but for now I will leave the heat on.  I hope you are so lucky.

 

EDIT: Oh, just read the post above... never mind.

Edited December 29, 2013 by '76Mintgrun'02

[glemon]

I did not directly test the hose from the head, I pulled the small hose on that comes out of the big double water outlet on the head, I clamped off the heater bypass that comes out of the manifold, heater valve open, I blew air through the hose, and coolant came out of the the small outlet where I took the hose off, as far as I can talle the only way pressure would go through it via the hoses to the heater, the heater core itself and back to the block, but still don't think water is going through that part of the system when I run the motor, you could be right, will do some further testing, but too darn cold to drain the thing right now.  Thanks, Marshall and all, as always good information, you may very well be on the right track, the inlet hose to the heater off the head did not get warm like it should have with the valve open, so either blocked or for some other reason coolant is not flowing through.

[schoir]

Maurice, thanks, already did the compressed air trick, it does not appear to be blocked, Air from one end blew water out the other, but the car was sitting for a long time before I got it, that dual outlet piece that takes the two big radiator hoses is corroded to the point where it is almost unusable, so maybe something is blocked up, but not sure where, I also checked the valve by pulling the cover off, it is fine, all atttached and moving as it should, not blocked, not leaking.

 

Have you tried the feeling for heat in that short hose behind the heater valve?  That will also help you confirm whether, as Marshall suggests, there is blockage at the rear of the cylinder head (since you now know that valve is functioning).

 

Regards, Maurice.

[M3M3]

 the inlet hose to the heater off the head did not get warm like it should have with the valve open, so either blocked or for some other reason coolant is not flowing through.

think this is your problem.  the hose from the back of the head to the heater valve should be hot all the time, whether the valve is open or not.  something is blocking the output from the head.  gotta pull the hose off the head.

[glemon]

Thanks Marshall, and all, I agree, not great news, but probably  crud in the head, not the first time I have been accused of having that problem.....

Edited December 29, 2013 by glemon

[glemon]

Pulled the hose from the head, definitely no problem there. Coolant gushed out. Reattached hose and started car, started car for a brief moment with the heater valve cover off, coolant definitely flowing to the valve. Shot more air through. Seems to be going through the heater core. Sealed it back up, ran for a long time, got discernable warming of the air, but wouldn't call it heat. Back to thinking the heater core is mucked up, maybe partially plugged, project for another day.

[PaulTWinterton]

So... this thread has me rethinking about flushing MY cooling system.  I've read about draining from hoses and the plug on the engine block.

 

What about running a cleaning agent through the system?  We've all seen the scum and build up at the hose fittings.  Has anyone ever tried using a cleaning product to remove the buildup inside the system?  Do they work?

 

http://www.prestone.com/enca/products/car_care/cooling_system_treatments

[BLUNT]

yeah they work  But if you have a healthy clean cooling system i wouldnt use them. I feel they are corrosive and do more harm than good.....with the cost of new heater cores Id be as careful as possible.On the other hand if youve neglected it and its all screwed up you have little choice