engine and drivetrain Clutch Wont Disengage - 5Spd Swap

[evanb]

Im doing a 5 speed swap, from a 73 auto to a 245. Im in the final stages, but i cant get the clutch to disengage.

 

As far as i can tell its probably a bleed issue, but ive bled it three times with no effect. first i tried the pedal pumping method, then the oil can reverse bleed method (pump brake fluid up the bleed valve), then the pedal method again.

 

Im getting worried that something else is wrong. Primarily, the throw out bearing. Ive got a 228 flywheel and clutch setup, and so i got, from ireland engineering, a 21 51 1 204 525/38 throw out bearing. Is this the correct one?

 

Are there any other issues i could be missing?

 

any pressure bleeders in the san jose ca area willing to let me borrow it?

 

thanks everyone!

[skipsfcr]

Did you make sure that the bleeder nipple on the slave is facing down?

[evanb]

Yea the slave is in there properly, bleeder down, fluid line on top.

[dbmw2002]

Went through this myself, gave up on installed bleeding and bled with slave straight up from master, hairball and nervous about stressing hy lines but it worked

[AceAndrew]

 

Im getting worried that something else is wrong. Primarily, the throw out bearing. Ive got a 228 flywheel and clutch setup, and so i got, from ireland engineering, a 21 51 1 204 525/38 throw out bearing. Is this the correct one?

 

 

 Have you called IE directly yet?  Seems to me that would be step one.

[Hans]

The wrong throw-out bearing will do that, but your part number appears to be correct.

Those cyl are not easy to bleed. Bavauto sells a jig that lets you bleed it off the car.

[thehackmechanic]

There are basically three possibilities: 

 

1) The hydraulic components themselves are bad. You say you have a new slave. What condition is the master in?

 

2) The components are fine, but there's still air in the line making it so hydraulic pressure is not transmitted to the slave. Does the clutch pedal FEEL stiff, or does it feel soft and spongy? I have both the Motive pressure bleeder and an old Gunnison's EZ Bleed which takes a pressure tap off the tire. They both have their advantages. The Gunnison is quick and easy but you need to keep opening the reservoir to add more fluid. The Motive is great if you're bleeding brakes at all four wheels (since it is its own reservoir), but there's a little sleight of hand you need to do to drain the fluid that's overfilling the reservoir so it doesn't wind up running down your engine compartment; you need to unscrew the Motive's cap, crack open the bleed valve, and let the fluid level run down before unscrewing the cap at the reservoir in the engine compartment, if that makes sense.

 

3) There's a mechanical issue. Agree that 21 51 1 204 525 should be the correct T/O bearing for a 228mm setup. Is it possible the clutch fork isn't correctly set up? 

[eurotrash]

This happened during my swap. This did the trick for me..  Use a pressure bleeder and while it is pressurized and pushing fluid, bleeder open, actuate the clutch very slowly.  Do this a couple times and report back.

Edited December 22, 2013 by eurotrash

[evanb]

Ok so it sounds like pressure bleeder is the answer.

Master is brand new, TO bearing is the right part, and as far I know the clutch arm is there and functioning (this seemed pretty straightforward during installation). So it must be air in the lines.

I'll try and get my hands on a pressure bleeder and see how that goes.

Thanks everyone for chiming in. Glad I'm not alone in having trouble bleeding!

[TobyB]

new master, that makes it even harder.

 

Are you using a piece of clear tubing on the bleeder screw?

That seems to make things go easier.

 

If you are, try this, with or without a pressure bleeder-

 

loop the hose up, above the slave, and do the 2- person bleed.

Get your assistant to pump the clutch pedal until there's SOME pressure,

then pop the bleeder open- then shut.  Do this a few times.  It seems to help

drive air out.  Obviously, this won't work if you're not getting the master to bleed.

 

Pressure bleeding helps, too, as does jacking the car so that the bleeder's the highest point

in the slave.

 

You may have to bleed the master first, then the slave. 

 

Yep, it's a bit of a pain, especially with new parts.

 

t

Edited December 22, 2013 by TobyB

[allbim]

You might try to position the car nose-down to encourage the bubbles to move toward the bleed opening.

[Hans]

Are you using a rubber hose? Is it new?

[evanb]

Metal hose from master to slave. From reservoir to master, though, is a plastic hose in the master connected to a rubber hose to the reservoir (same as the reservoir to brake master hose). How could I tell if there's air getting in where the plastic and rubber hose connect?

[Hans]

I think you'd see fluid coming out. But put a little clamp on it if in doubt. Back to the bleeding.

[Hans]

I have a vague recollection of problems with the throw out arm - a missing piece of plastic? Or not attached at one end? Anybody able to add to this? Isn't there some way of looking in there?