engine and drivetrain Clutch Wont Disengage - 5Spd Swap

[jgerock]

Is this spring in place (or possibly broken)?  There is also a rubber/plastic piece pressed inside the bellhousing (stub can be seen in this picture between the (2) arms of the spring).

 

Try to have someone listen at the clutch area (engine not running) for the lever moving forward while you press the clutch pedal.

Edited December 23, 2013 by jgerock

[AustrianVespaGuy]

If you don't want to take the time to order a pressure bleeder, one can pretty easily be made with a Home Depot insecticide sprayer bottle (as a pressure reservoir) and an extra fluid reservoir cap with a brass hose fitting in it.  Think there's instructions for making one around here on the forums somewhere, so if you happen to have a spare reservoir cap you can whip one up this afternoon and (hopefully) be on your way!

-Carl

 

Found the link for you: http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/campingart/jettatech/bleeder/  Surely not as good as buying a 'real' one but just in case you want to save on the shipping time probably worth considering!

Edited December 23, 2013 by AustrianVespaGuy

[TobyB]

I just use a pressure regulator, the compressor, and a jar lid that fits the master.  And a nipple and some tubing.

 

2 or 3 psi usually does the deed.

 

You could even use a bike pump, I suppose.

 

t

[evanb]

I've got a pressure bleeder on the way. Hopefully that will do the trick. I'll update once I give it a shot.

[allbim]

For those who would like to build their own pressure bleeder like TobyB, some lids on paint thinner and acetone etc. cans have the same thread as the brake fluid reservoir.

[dbmw2002]

Old school, grab the damn hose and blow through it, dont let the fiance see you doin this

[peterschop]

When I replaced the clutch slave and line in my 528e many years ago, to bleed it, I improvised my own pressure bleeder by using a piece of bicycle inner tube. I positioned the valve stem over the top of the reservoir and held it on with a heavy rubber band. I then used a tire pump to build pressure in the system. It was a PIA but it worked.

[evanb]

Ok, update...

Got the pressure bleeder, went through it a few times: 15 psi, open the bleed valve, close it, repeat.

Once done, close the valve, remove pressure bleeder, car in first, clutch down, try to start it, wheels spin. Didn't work.

So I tried again. This time, after opening and closing the bleed valve a few times, I even submerged the tube coming from the bleed valve in brake fluid and pumped the clutch with the valve open. This actually resulted in a slightly firmer clutch feel, but that may have been a placebo. Anyway, try to start it and again, wheels move.

So I removed the slave, still hooked up to master, to see if it was working properly, there was pressure, etc. when my gf pressed clutch down, piston came out of the slave, all the way out: seems to work fine.

As far as I can tell everything was installed correctly. I got a new metal pivot pin from ie, as well as a new clutch arm clip. Based on the pic above it was installed correctly. When the slave was out I stuck my finger into the transmission and could feel the clutch arm, pressed it and it was solid as a rock (I'm assuming that means everything is there, TO bearing pressed against pressure plate, etc.

I'm at a loss. I'm totally bewildered by this. I have no idea what the next step is. If anyone has any wild ideas, I'm willing to try anything at this point.

Sorry for the novel, folks! I'm just ready to lose it right about now!

[FunkyLaneO]

^{You may have the wrong TO bearing in there, Since you can stick your finger in and feel the clutch arm, try measuring the distance from the arm to the mounting surface of slave cylinder with a pencil or a dowel or something similar and them measure the rod of the slave at rest and make sure it is long enough to contact the arm before it is fully extended. If that looks like the problem you man need a taller TO bearing.}

Edited December 27, 2013 by FunkyLaneO

[Hans]

Try the measurement as suggested. That should give some clues. I would also have your trusty assistant do the old pedal push bleed as well. Keep in mind you may be moving bubbles all the way from the master so you will need to pass a good amount of fluid - so to speak. Just because it works off the car doesn't mean it will push the arm.

 

Perhaps the wrong TO bearing came in the right box.

 

I faintly recall something about changing the tip on the rod.

[M3M3]

i didn't see an answer to the question, "does the clutch pedal feel firm or mushy?" it should feel solid and immediately come back up when released.

if so..
one other item that has not been mentioned....is the clutch disk installed correctly? there is a distinct "front" and "rear" to the disk. if installed backwards you may have a problem.

 

Edited December 28, 2013 by mlytle

[Hans]

Dumb question, but will it go in backwards?

[M3M3]

Dumb question, but will it go in backwards?

yup.

[evanb]

Got under the car agin today. Did the measurement suggested, measured about an inch from outside bell housing to the clutch arm, which left me about and inch and a half of slave cylinder rod. Is that enough to disengage the clutch?

I also tried unblinking the pedal, setting the linkage all the way out and hooking the pedal back up, to try to engage the master as much as possible. Bled it this was a few more times. No success.

At this point I'm convinced that the system is bled correctly. The pedal is firm and smooth, I'm getting no bubbles during bleeding. The thing is, when I had my gf push the clutch while I was under the car, I didn't actually hear anything. At least, I couldn't distinguish what I heard from what could have just been pedal noise.

One thing I did think of today, was that I haven't bled my brakes yet. The bleed valves broke off in the wheel cylinders, so I have those on the way to replace. Can I properly bleed the clutch if there's air in the brake lines? I can't see why this would have an effect, but I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed either.

On that note, I'm almost positive the clutch plate is installed correctly, but you never know.

Anyway, can anyone think of anything else to try before I have to remove the tranny?

Thanks again all.

[M3M3]

yes, clutch can be bled independently of brakes.

 

i think you are at pull the tranny stage.